1000hp 2JZ Engine Bottom End Assembly

A step by step guide for assembling the bottom end of a 2JZ engine with forged pistons and rods to be able to support around 1000hp. This instructable is a general overview and even more information about torque specs, piston ring gaps and more can be found in the full instructional video here

Piston ring squaring tool

Piston ring filer

Piston ring spreading pliers

Piston ring compressor

1. Install bearings into engine block, there are 2 different bearings that come in a set of main bearings. The bearings that have holes or slots in them go on the engine block, the bearings that are total smooth go on the main bearing caps
2. The bearing for journal #1 is wider than the rest of the bearings
3. Install the crankshaft after all 7 bearings are installed (do not lubricate bearings at this point)
4. We used plastigage to check that the bearing clearances are within spec
5. Apply a small piece of the plastigage to each of the 7 crankshaft journals
6. Install the remaining main bearings onto the main caps
7. Install all 7 main caps in their appropriate location

1. Torque the main studs to spec in the proper sequence, in our case we used ARP main studs and torqued them to 60lbft according to APR and in the factory service manual sequence
2. Once all the studs are torqued, loses the studs in the correct order according to the service manual
3. Remove the main caps to reveal the squished plastigage
4. Comparing the green/white gauge that Plastigage provides, we confirm our main bearing clearances are within spec according to the factory service manual

1. Remove crankshaft and apply assembly lube to all of the main bearings
2. Install and lubricate thrust bearings onto the engine block and onto the center main cap
3. install crankshaft and lubricate journals with assembly lube
4. lubricate bearings on the main caps with assembly lube then install onto crank
5. torque the main studs again to the proper spec and sequence
6. once all the main caps are installed and torqued make sure the crank can smoothly rotate

1. Apply assembly lube to wrist pin, piston and connecting rod
2. Install wrist pin to the rod and piston
3. There are 5 pistons rings total, 2 compression rings, 2 oil rings and 1 expander ring
4. All but the expander ring will need their end gap to be checked/filed
5. Place a ring into the cylinder and use a piston or preferably a piston ring squaring tool to place the ring squarely into the cylinder a few inches down
6. use a set of feel gauges to check the gap
7. reference the service manual or the your piston/ring manufacturer for proper ring end gap
8. use a piston ring filer to slightly file/grind the rind to bring the end gap into spec
9. do this very gently, only remove a little bit at a time and continuously check to avoid making the gap too large

1. The rod bearings are all identical, unlike the main bearings. Install a bearing on to the rod and a bearing onto the rod cap, do not lubricate yet as we will check the bearing clearance.
2. With the rod crap removed, install a piston/rod assembly into the block
3. lubricate everything with oil, the piston, piston rings, cylinder and piston ring compressor tool
4. Install piston into the compressor tool and press it into the cylinder

1. Clean crank shaft journal
2. Mate the rod/bearing to the crank shaft
3. Place a small piece of plastigage onto crankshaft journal
4. place rod cap with bearing onto crankshaft
5. lubricate rod bolts with oil
6. evenly torqued to spec, in our case we torqued to 60lbft according to Manley/ARP
7. Once torqued, remove cap
8. Use the plastigage scale to confirm bearing clearance is within spec

1. Clean crankshaft
2. apply assembly lube to rod bearings and crankshaft
3. reinstall rod cap and lubricate bolts again
4. evenly retorque rod bolts to spec
5. once all 6 pistons/rods are installed your rotating assembly is complete!