3D Printed Fishing Lure Rotating Drying Station

This Instructable details the creation of a 3D-printed rotating drying station for fishing lures. Designed for lure makers, this tool ensures even drying after painting or coating by smoothly rotating the lures.

A cool, easy, and affordable small electronics and 3D printing project, perfect for DIY enthusiasts!

About tools:

1. 3D printer (of course!)
2. Cutter, pliers & deburring tool
3. Screwdrivers
4. 13 size wenches
5. Soldering iron
6. Hot glue gun
7. Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): protection gloves, goggles...

About materials and things to buy (affiliate link for item I couldn’t source locally):

1. Hardware
2. M3 nuts
3. M3x8mm screws
4. M6x40mm (head 25mm) hand knob: link to Aliexpress
5. M6x10mm brass insert (mine have a 8mm external Ø): link to Aliexpress
6. M8 nuts
7. M8x25mm bolts
8. PLA filament: link to Amazon
9. Ball Bearings 8x22x7mm: link to Aliexpress
10. M5x8mm headless hex screw - optional: link to Aliexpress
11. Stainless steel wire Ø1,5mm: link to Aliexpress
12. Fishing ring: link to Aliexpress
13. Fishing rolling swivel snap: link to Aliexpress
14. Heat-shrink sleeve - optional: link to Aliexpress
15. Superglue - optional
16. Electronic components
17. Power supply, jack plug 5.5mm x 2.5-2.1mm (5V 1A): link to Aliexpress
18. Power plug female 5.5mm x 2.1mm: link to Aliexpress
19. Arduino nano with USB cable: link to Aliexpress
20. Stepper motor 28BYJ-48 with UNL2003 motor driver: link to Aliexpress
21. 10k ohms potentiometer: link to Aliexpress
22. Switch: link to Aliexpress
23. Electrical wires: link to Aliexpress
24. PCB 50x70mm - optional: link to Aliexpress
25. PCB terminal block connectors - optional: link to Aliexpress
26. Copper wire for PCB: link to Aliexpress

The drying station has a compact design, measuring approximately 38cm in width, 12cm in depth, and 14cm in height, making it suitable for most fishing lures up to 18 cm long!

Hardware

I designed this lure drying station using SolidWorks CAD software.

To ensure compatibility with most 3D printers, I divided the design into two smaller main parts. These parts are secured together using a 3D-printed joint located beneath the drying station.

Software

Before assembling the PCB as described in the following steps, it's a good idea to test the wiring on a breadboard and upload the code to the Arduino.

You can download the .ino code file here. It is written in basic C++ and can be uploaded to the Arduino Nano using the Arduino IDE. If you’re unfamiliar with the process, a lot's of tutorials are available online to guide you.

Here we go—time to start printing!

You can find STL files here: link to Printables or link to Cult3D

I printed all the parts using black PLA material on my Bambulab X1C.

Only one part requires support material (Motor_Opposite_Side_Support.STL → see the green area in the last slicer view). Adding borders is also a good idea to prevent parts from becoming unstuck during printing (blue areas of every slicer views).

Use pliers & deburring tool to clean up the printed parts as needed.

No 3D printer? JLC3DP offers fast, affordable 3D printing with instant quotes and quick delivery. Check it out: link to JLC3DP

Use your soldering iron to heat up the M6x10mm brass inserts while pressing them into the part (Motor_Opposite_Side_Wheel.STL). To ensure the inserts stay flush, use a flat tool to hold them in place as they cool down.

Once the inserts are secure, screw M6x40mm hand knobs into each insert to help deburr any excess plastic and ensure a clean fit.

Press-fit the bearing into the part (Motor_Side_Wheel.STL); if needed, apply a small amount of glue to the outer ring of the bearing for a secure fit.

Next, perform a test assembly of the wheels and shaft—there is only one correct position where the holes in each wheel align perfectly.

Once everything fits correctly, apply glue to each wheel and press-fit the shaft into place.

Simply join the two chassis parts (Motor_Opposite_Side_Support.STL and Motor_Side_Support.STL) using the joint piece. Apply superglue to secure everything in place, and use clamps to hold the parts tightly together while the glue hardens.

First, mount the motor onto the chassis by tightening two M3x8mm screws.

Next, insert the drum onto the motor's shaft and secure it on the opposite side using an M8x25mm bolt and nut. Use size 13 flat and pipe wrenches to tighten the M8 bolt securely.

Optionally, you can use an M5x8mm headless hex screw to secure the drum to the motor's shaft.

In this step, position the M3 nuts that will be used to mount the electronic cover in later steps. Simply use an M3 bolt to pull each nut into its designated 3D-printed slot. If desired, you can apply a small amount of glue to the nuts to ensure a permanent fit within the part.

Prepare the wires for the switch and the potentiometer, and solder them to the pins of each component. Once soldered, use heat-shrink sleeves to secure and insulate each electrical connection.

For the ULN2003 motor driver module, reverse the IN1 to IN4 pins to the opposite side of the module to make it easier to solder them onto the PCB in the next step. To do this, use a soldering iron to carefully unsolder the pins while using pliers to pull them out. Once removed, resolder the pins on the opposite side of the module.

Time for the fun part! If you’re new to making PCBs, don’t worry—This PCB is easier than you might think.

The most important step is to carefully position the components on the PCB before proceeding further. Taking the time to plan this step will help you optimize your soldering paths and ensure a cleaner, more efficient build.

In the first picture, the motor driver module pins IN1 to IN4 are perfectly aligned with the Arduino's digital inputs D3 to D6 on the PCB. Solder the pins of each component and create the necessary connections between them. To simplify the process, you can use copper wire to easily make your soldering connections.

Next, solder the PCB terminal block connectors: one for positive, one for negative, and the last for the potentiometer signal (the 4th terminal block pin is not used). Connect the positive and negative terminal blocks to the corresponding pins of each module to ensure proper power distribution.

Finally, solder the potentiometer signal to the Arduino A1 analog input. If needed, use wires to create jumpers over copper wire connections.

With all the electronics ready, it’s time to install the components in place. Use a hot glue gun to secure the power plug to the chassis, clip the switch into its slot, and tighten the potentiometer using its nut.

Start by connecting the power supply to the common pin of the switch.

Next, install the PCB in place and secure it using either glue or four screws. Finally, wire the terminal block pins according to the electrical diagram to ensure proper connections, and plug the motor into its module.

At this stage, you should see your fishing lure drying station making its first turns!

You can close the electronic box with the Motor_Side_Cover.STL part and secure it using M3x8mm screws.

Finalize the assembly by shaping some U-shaped wires using different pliers. Insert them into the holes of the Motor_Side_Wheel.STL part, and secure them in place with superglue.

Next, insert M6 nuts into the Lure_Screw_Coupler.STL parts, screw the M6 hand knobs into the Motor_Opposite_Side_Wheel.STL, and attach the assembled Lure_Screw_Coupler.STL with its nut.

Depending on your preference (whether you want your fishing lures to spin freely or rotate on one side only), you can use fishing rings and rolling swivel snaps to complete the setup.

Well done, you've made it!

This project can help you expand your knowledge in the areas of 3D printing and electronics.

I hope this tutorial has been helpful and inspiring. Don't hesitate to share your own drying stations with us.

If you have any questions, feel free to ask, and I will try to answer them.

Happy making!