3D Printed Goldeneye Proximity Mine (with Arduino)

by DAD_Projects in Circuits > Arduino

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3D Printed Goldeneye Proximity Mine (with Arduino)

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Previously, I created an Arduino-based 3D printed remote mine from the movie and Nintendo 64 video game Goldeneye. It was based on Shane Blomberg's 3D printed version with LED chasers and beeper. While remote mines helped James escape several quandaries, they weren't his only useful mine. He carried timed mines on the Runway and Caverns and proximity mines in the Depot. It's the latter that I wanted to create this time.

The proximity mines do not make an appearance in the movie, but the video game shows a similar form factor to the remote mine. However, instead of 6 rotating red LEDs, the proximity mine shows 4 green LEDs. I used some artistic license to sequence them in an interesting way. Additionally, a passive infrared (PIR) sensor monitors for heat changes, and when motion is detected, the LEDs flash quickly and a beeper alerts the target of the impending explosion.

Supplies

I reused many of the same parts from the previous mine build.

PLA for 3D printing

(1) Arduino Nano board

(8) 3/8" diameter x 1/4" height neodymium magnets

(4) 5 mm LEDs (green)

(4) panel mount LED holders

(4) 220 Ohm resistors

(1) 150 Ohm resistor

(1) Passive piezo buzzer

(1) PIR sensor

(1) SPST push button switch

(1) 4x6 cm perfboard

Acrylic paint

Sandable filler and primer

JB Weld or similar epoxy

Krylon Matte Finish (1311)

Superglue

I also used miscellaneous tools and consumables such as a soldering iron, wire, small gauge heat shrink, sand paper, and brushes.

Prototype and Program Circuit

I chose to use an Arduino Nano because of its small form factor and ease of programming. Also for ease, I used a PIR sensor to monitor for motion. It has a single signal output, which is either high for motion or low for no motion.

After breadboarding the simple circuit, I played around with some timing loops to get a slow strobing effect with the lights. When motion is sensed, the buzzer beeps and LEDs flash quickly. Additionally, when first powered, the output of the PIR sensor is not stable, so I introduced a start up sequence with the LEDs and beeper. Practically, this would let the user arm the mine and then get out of range before the mine is active.

The code is attached, and almost all of the parameters can be tweaked within macros.

Downloads

3D Print the Housing

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I started with the same CAD models I used for the remote mine. The lower housing and battery cover were reused as is, but the upper shell required some modifications. Within Fusion 360, I filled 4 of the existing LED holes, added 2 new ones in different locations, and then added a larger hole for the PIR sensor. I printed all the pieces with PLA+.

3D Printing Settings:

Upper shell: 20% Infill, needs support (support density 10%), 0.2 mm layer height

Lower shell: 20% Infill, no support, 0.2 mm layer height

Battery cover: 20% Infill, no support, 0.2 mm layer height

Filling, Sanding, and Priming

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After printing, I used very coarse 60 grit sandpaper to remove most of the layer lines. Afterward, I sprayed several coats of sandable primer and filler. I then sanded my way up from 180 grit to 800 grit. The pieces were plenty smooth for brush painting.

Paint and Clear Coat Parts

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I used 2 shades of gray acrylic paint for the plastic pieces. Approximately 5 coats were needed to achieve good coverage. I then used a clear coat to seal the pieces. This is where I experienced a large setback. I left the parts outside so the solvents in the clear coat could off-gas. When I checked on them later, unexpected rain had soaked them, and the wet paper underneath pulled off some of the paint.

I cursed my stupidity, repainted the parts, and resprayed clear coat.

Bond Magnets

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I used JB Weld to bond on the magnets. I actually did this step between coats of paint when there was time for the epoxy to cure.

Solder Components

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The process of soldering the components to a protoboard was straightforward.


Assembly

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I added the push button switch, soldered it to the board and battery terminals, and squeezed everything into the housing. I used super glue on each of the LED holders, and pushed the LEDs through each to make them rotate clockwise during the startup sequence.

Wrap Present

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I made this video game prop for my brother's birthday. We spent many hours playing Goldeneye as kids, so I hope he enjoys it.

Of course, I made myself one too, and it accompanies the remote mine on my fridge.