3D Printed Mid-Century Modern Side Tables

Mid-century furniture is well known for its limeless and vogue appeal combined with its ultimate functionality. These pieces are well-designed objects and sit perfectly in contemporary homes and interiors. They feel fresh, modern and have a simplistic but sophisticated look.

In this instructable, I will be detailing the steps needed to build your very own 3D printed Mid-century glass side tables. The entire build consists of easy to source parts from your local hardware store and can be built as a weekend project.

The tables were first designed on Fusion 360 to get a digital representation of the intended final design and to determine the necessary dimensions for the tables, specific to my application. Then, the centre mounting section was selected to be 3D printed. Within fusion 360, these parts were further improved by incorporating Design for Additive Manufacturing (DfAM) techniques and exported as STL files. All the 3D printable files are attached and can be found under the "Step 3 - The 3D printed parts" section of this instructable.

To build these tables, you will need some essential tools and materials illustrated below.

Tools Needed:

1. Screw Driver
2. Handsaw or Jigsaw.
3. Drill.
4. 3D Printer.
5. Sponge or paintbrush.
6. 3D Printed Dowel Pin Guide (if you don’t have a Kreg tool like me).

Materials: 50cm Diameter Table

1. M6 Nuts X 9
2. M6 Bolts x 30 mm X 6
3. M6 Bolts x 40 mm X 3
4. M6 Spring Washers X 6
5. Glass Sheet – 6 mm thick x 500 mm Diameter
6. Wooden Legs – 20 x 30 x 460 mm X 3 (Use One 1800 x 20 x 30 mm strip length)

Materials: 40 cm Diameter Table

1. M6 Nuts X 9
2. M6 Bolts x 30 mm X 6
3. M6 Bolts x 40 mm X 3
4. M6 Spring Washers X 6
5. Glass Sheet – 6 mm thick x 400 mm Diameter
6. Wooden Legs – 20 x 30 x 450 mm X 3 (Use One 1800 x 20 x 30 mm strip length)

Have a look at the short video to see how I built the 3D printed Mid-Century Glass Side Tables. I would advise that you watch the video in full to get a basic understanding of how the tables are built. It will also help when you are following this written guide.

The entire design process for the tables started on paper. First, a few conceptual sketches were created with basic dimensions and shapes. After going through the sketches, it was time to turn them into a complete 3D design. I used Fusion 360 to design the tables. This allowed me to refine the design to the final version you see now. A remarkable feature of Fusion 360 is the Render tool. This allows you to select materials (available within the software) for your design to get a general estimate of what the final product would look like once it is built. A realistic digital photo of your intended final product.

This section details the 3D printed parts needed for making the side tables.

All parts are printed using PETG material (you can use any other material you like; however, depending on where you are going to keep the tables and what you may place on them, the filament you use needs to withstand the environmental and loading conditions). The 3D printing part list is illustrated for each table with the corresponding names.

3D Prints: 50 cm Diameter

The parts that need to be 3D printed include:

1. Dowel_Pin_50mm X 9
2. Support1_50mm X 1
3. Support2_50mm X 1
4. Support3_50mm X 1
5. Glass_Support_Mount X 3

3D Prints: 40 cm Diameter

1. Dowel_Pin_40mm X 9
2. Support1_40mm X 1
3. Support2_40mm X 1
4. Support3_40mm X 1
5. Glass_Support_Mount X 3

Printing the Dowel_Pin

The dowel pins have been designed to fit the 3D printed supports and the wooden legs for both side tables. The dowel pins are 6 mm in diameter and 39 mm in length. Since these parts will bear the most load; they must be printed lying flat on the build plate (please see the attached image) with the following print settings:

• Infill Density - 35 %
• Infill Pattern - Cubic
• Number of Shells - 4
• Layer Height - 0.2
• Wall Thickness - 1.6
• Build Plate Adhesion - Brim – 5mm width

Printing the Supports (These include all Supports for both tables)

The Supports have been designed with the required tolerances for the nut inserts and the fixing points. These Supports must be printed lying flat (please see the attached image) on the build plate, as this will provide a strong part and reduce the overall print time. The following print settings are advised:

• Infill Density - 20 %
• Infill Pattern - Grid
• Number of Shells - 4
• Layer Height - 0.2
• Wall Thickness - 1.6
• Build Plate Adhesion - Brim – 5mm width

If you would like to print these faster, you can use a larger nozzle diameter to print the models. You will need to adjust the print settings based on your nozzle diameter.

Printing the Glass_Support_Mounts

The glass_support_mounts are used to fix the glass top to the 3D printed supports. Therefore, the mounts need to be printed lying flat on the build plate (please see the attached images). In addition, to add an aesthetic element to the surface of the glass_support_mount, the top and bottom patterns must be selected as concentric (please see the attached images). This will create concentric (circular line) patterns on the surface glued to the glass. The recommended print settings for the glass_support_mounts are as follows:

• Infill Density - 20 %
• Infill Pattern - Cubic
• Number of Shells - 4
• Layer Height - 0.2
• Wall Thickness - 1.6
• Build Plate Adhesion - Brim – 5mm width
• Top/Bottom Pattern - Concentric

The glass_support_mounts have been designed to embed an M6 nut into the part during the printing process. To embed the M6 nut, we will need to pause the print at a specific layer height using the slicer software (please see the attached images). In this case, we will be using Ultimaker’s Cura slicer to set the pause print setting. The following steps are used to pause the print at the specific layer height/number:

• Select "Extensions" - "Post-Processing" - "Modify G-Code"
• Select "Add a script"
• From the drop-down, select the "Pause at height" option.
• Once the script is selected, you will notice a set of options appear on the right side.
• Next to the "Pause at" option, click the drop-down and select the "Layer Number" option.
• Next to the "Pause Height" option, insert the layer number. In our case, the layer number is 42.
• The "Park Print Head X" and "Park Print Head Y" are the X & Y locations that will move the print head to before stopping. It is best to move the print head away from the prints to insert the nuts easily.
• Next to the "Standby Temperature" option, insert the material temperature you are printing with. In my case, I was printing the glass_support_mounts with PETG, and the appropriate material temperature in my case was 250 degrees celsius. Therefore, you will need to enter the same material temperature you are printing with here.
• All other settings can be left as default or based on your own preferences if you've used this option before.

After printing all the parts, it is time to assemble them. The following is a list of the hardware components (nuts and bolts) needed to fix the 3D printed parts together:

Materials: 50cm Diameter Table

1. M6 Nuts X 9
2. M6 Bolts x 30 mm X 6
3. M6 Bolts x 40 mm X 3
4. M6 Spring Washers X 6

Materials: 40cm Diameter Table

1. M6 Nuts X 9
2. M6 Bolts x 30 mm X 6
3. M6 Bolts x 40 mm X 3
4. M6 Spring Washers X 6

The following steps detail the assembling process for the 3D printed components:

1. The first step to assembling the 3D printed parts is to get a basic idea of how they will look (please watch the video if you aren't sure).
2. Next, lay the Supports out in a triangular fashion (as they are intended to be fixed). It is also wise to get a feel for the slots and bolt holes on the 3D printed Support.
3. Insert the M6 nuts (two nuts per Support) into the slot (located at the edge) and position the Support1 in line with the through-holes found on Support2.
4. Next, screw the M6 x 30 mm bolts fixing Support1 and Support2 together.
5. Repeat the above steps until you have all three Supports fixed together (please see the attached images).
6. The next step is to fix the glass_support_mounts to the Supports. First, add two spring-washers to a single M6 x 40 mm bolts and insert them through the hole found on the flat edge of the 3D print (please refer to the images attached).
7. Next, screw the glass_support_mount on the reverse side, fixing the glass_support_mouth to the Support.
8. Then, repeat the above steps for the remaining glass_support_mounts.

After assembling the 3D printed parts, it is time to prepare the wooden pieces that will make up the legs for the side tables.

To make the side tables' legs, I used two Saligna wood strips planed-all-round (PAR) with a dimension of 20 x 30 x 1800 mm. The wood strips were then marked and cut to specific lengths for the legs (Please see attached images). You can use any wood when making your side tables; however, the most critical dimension is the thickness (20 mm) of the wood strips. This will determine whether the wood will be flush with the 3D printed Supports when fixed together. The following is a list of the number of wood strips and dimensions needed for making the legs.

Materials: 50cm Diameter Table

1. Wooden Legs – 20 x 30 x 460 mm X 3 (Use One 1800 x 20 x 30 mm strip length)

Materials: 40cm Diameter Table

1. Wooden Legs – 20 x 30 x 450 mm X 3 (Use One 1800 x 20 x 30 mm strip length)

Cutting the edges of the Wooden Strips

After cutting the wood strip into the dimensions mentioned above, each leg edge (top and bottom) will need to be cut at a 15-degree angle. This helps with creating a flush connection and helps the table stand flat. Please see the attached Fusion 360 dimensioned images detailing the required dimensions to cut off.

Drilling the Dowel_Pin holes

Once the wood pieces have been cut; it is time to mark and drill the holes for the 3D printed Dowel_Pins. If you have access to a Kreg pocket hole jig, you can use this to assist you in drilling the holes. Unfortunately, I do not have one of these, so I designed and 3D printed a simple jig to help guide the drill (please see the attached images). You can also 3D print the guide if you do not have the jig tool. The following details the steps in using the 3D printed guide:

1. Place the 3D printed guide on the top section of the wooden leg (make sure you have the correct section).
2. The 3D printed guide has edges that will help keep it flush with the wood. In addition, you may use a clamp or vice to secure it in place when drilling.
3. You will need to drill into the wood roughly 25 mm. Be sure to mark your drill bit.
4. Once you have drilled the holes, test fit the Dowel_Pins, and the 3D printed Supports to ensure they meet flush.

Once the wooden legs have been cut, drilled and the Dowel_pins have been tested fitted, it is time to fix them permanently to the assembled 3D printed brace.

The following steps should be followed:

1. Add a decent amount of wood glue to the Dowel_pins and insert them into the holes on the wooden legs.
2. Add a decent amount of glue to the 3D printed brace.
3. Press fit the Dowel_Pins with the wooden legs into the holes on the 3D printed brace.
4. Once the leg is flush with the brace, wipe off any excess wood glue.
5. Then, repeat the steps above for the remaining legs.
6. To ensure that a good bond is achieved between the leg and the brace, you can use straps or tape around the entire frame. This will help the parts stay in place when drying.
7. Leave the parts to dry overnight before moving to the next section of the build.

Once the wood glue is dried, it is time to add a bit of colour to the wooden legs. In my case, I wanted to have a simple natural finish. So I applied two coats of clear polyurethane varnish to the Saligna wood pieces.

You can add your own preferred wood stains or varnishes at this stage, depending on what type of wood you used to make your side tables out off or the filament colour you used to 3D print the components.

Once the wooden legs have dried, the final step left is assembling the glass tops to the legs. The following is a list of the dimensions needed for getting your precut glass:

Glass Specifications: 50cm Diameter Table

1. Shape – Circle
2. Dimension – 500 mm or 50 cm diameter
3. Thickness – 6 mm
4. Glass type – Standard
5. Edge type - Polished

Glass Specifications: 40cm Diameter Table

1. Shape – Circle
2. Dimension – 400 mm or 40 cm diameter
3. Thickness – 6 mm
4. Glass type – Standard
5. Edge type - Polished

To fix the glass to the 3D printed Glass_Support_Mounts, follow the recommended steps below:

1. Mark the centre point of the glass. Once you marked the centre point, measure and mark the three points for the glass_support_mounts.
2. I used a chalk marker to mark the points. It is easy to write on the glass and wipes clean with a damp cloth.
3. After marking the three points for the Glass_Support_Mounts, prepare the epoxy glue.
4. I used a clear two-part mix epoxy to fix the glass top to the Glass_support_Mount.
5. After mixing the two mix epoxy, apply the epoxy to the surface of the mounts. When applying the epoxy, only apply at the centre for the mounts. This ensures that no excess will be squeezed out and onto the visible section of the glass.
6. After applying the glue, press down the legs matching the marked section on the glass top.
7. Add a few weights on the 3D printed brace to help squeeze the parts together.
8. Leave the weights on the brace and allow to dry for a few hours or overnight.

That's it!

If you followed through all the steps, you should have a final set of these 3D printed mid-century glass side tables just like mine.

Well done, and thank you for following the guide.

As with any design and build, there will always be room for improvements and additional personalisations that could be done. Here are a few improvements and personalisations you could do for your tables:

1. Use a wood stain or darker varnish.
2. Use a different filament colour.
3. Smooth out the edges of the wooden legs to create a more circular finish.
4. 3D print the Glass_Support_Mounts with a silver filament.
5. Paint the 3D printed Glass_support_Mounts with a silver metallic finish. This will make it look like metal.
6. Change the wooden leg heights to create a stepped down effect between the side tables.

One of the advantages of using Fusion 360’s Render tool is assigning various materials and finishes to get a basic idea of what the final product would look like. I have attached a few renders of some possible combinations in colours and materials. These may help inspire you to improve the colours to your personal preference.

If you do make these, please tag me on Instagram on @3d_whip. I would love to see some of the creations you make.

All the best and happy-making.