3D Printed Part. 3-digit 7-segment LED Enclosure. I Made It at TechShop.
by John_TS_DTW in Workshop > 3D Printing
1078 Views, 3 Favorites, 0 Comments
3D Printed Part. 3-digit 7-segment LED Enclosure. I Made It at TechShop.
.jpg)
.jpg)
Goal:
To create an enclosure around 7-segment LED. In this project, I use 0.8" Height 7-segment LEDs. The cavity for 3 digits measure 60 mm Widith by 28 mm. I added 2mm for wall thickness. I made the slope with 1mm height and 2mm width on the top edges.
Procedure:
I use Autodesk Inventor Professional. I created a 2D Sketch. I choose horizontal plane. I draw a rectangle for the cavity. I draw another rectangle and reference to the first rectange and add 4mm. Then center the 2 rectangle with Measure Constraint tools by offsetting 2 sides (right sides and bottom sides) by 2mm.
Use 2 sides to create the slopes of 1mm vs 2mm to shape the top surface.
Save Autodesk Inventor File and export Geometry in STL file format.
Bring the STL file to the MakerBot and print. It takes only about 10 minutes and material cost only a few cents.
Tip:
* Depending on how tight you like it to be, you could make the opening 60.5mm x 28mm for each of insertion.
* Once your complete the breadboarding part, you could put the enclosure on.
* Putting glue is optional. In case you need to take them apart, you might not like putting glue to the parts.
* In order to push the LEDs into the enclosure with ease and minimize any breakage. Use two small pieces of flat wood and vise. Slowly compress until the LEDs move in the enclosure. You have to reposition the part in the clamp so the the LEDs are evenly pushed into the enclosure.
* As noted, in this situation, the enclosure won't allow wiring in the breadboarding. Use smaller LED size to fit and continuing electronics works. For larger LEds, use 2 breadboards. In the futhre, I could add more pictures.
Have fun in your journey!
To create an enclosure around 7-segment LED. In this project, I use 0.8" Height 7-segment LEDs. The cavity for 3 digits measure 60 mm Widith by 28 mm. I added 2mm for wall thickness. I made the slope with 1mm height and 2mm width on the top edges.
Procedure:
I use Autodesk Inventor Professional. I created a 2D Sketch. I choose horizontal plane. I draw a rectangle for the cavity. I draw another rectangle and reference to the first rectange and add 4mm. Then center the 2 rectangle with Measure Constraint tools by offsetting 2 sides (right sides and bottom sides) by 2mm.
Use 2 sides to create the slopes of 1mm vs 2mm to shape the top surface.
Save Autodesk Inventor File and export Geometry in STL file format.
Bring the STL file to the MakerBot and print. It takes only about 10 minutes and material cost only a few cents.
Tip:
* Depending on how tight you like it to be, you could make the opening 60.5mm x 28mm for each of insertion.
* Once your complete the breadboarding part, you could put the enclosure on.
* Putting glue is optional. In case you need to take them apart, you might not like putting glue to the parts.
* In order to push the LEDs into the enclosure with ease and minimize any breakage. Use two small pieces of flat wood and vise. Slowly compress until the LEDs move in the enclosure. You have to reposition the part in the clamp so the the LEDs are evenly pushed into the enclosure.
* As noted, in this situation, the enclosure won't allow wiring in the breadboarding. Use smaller LED size to fit and continuing electronics works. For larger LEds, use 2 breadboards. In the futhre, I could add more pictures.
Have fun in your journey!