3DPrintMi - Assembly Guide

New Printer Design Available

Please check out the next iterative design of the 3DPrintMi

Aluminum 3DPrintMi

3DPrintMi is an open source, Reprap 3D Printer designed and built from the ground up. As part of the Reprap movement, it has the ability to self replicate by printing a portion of itself and assembled together with fasteners.

For more information, please visit the links listed below:

• Printer Info and specifications
• CAD files
• Bill Of Material
• Build Log
• Revision Log

Summary
After building my first 3D printer, the Printrbot+, I wanted to donate aka "Print It Forward" a set of plastic parts and share the 3D printing experience to someone else. There are many Reprap printers out there, readily available to download and print but it's not as easy as it sounds. Most of the documentations to build a Reprap are hard to follow, incomplete or non-existent and can be simply overwhelming for a newbie. After weeks of searching for a suitable Reprap printer to donate, I became more and more interested in designing my own. Something that's easy to build, print and provide all the documentation to do it. After much debate, I decided to do just that, build my own printer. Well, after 6 months of printing, iterating and more printing, 3DPrintMi was born! I have built two 3DPrintMi so far and wish to see it built elsewhere around the world.

Getting Started
This guide will provide you the step-by-step instructions on how to assemble the printer's frame, assuming that the user has already pre-assembled the electronics before hand. I highly recommend you review the pictorial guide to get a good sense of what to expect. The pictures are self explanatory and the written instructions are there to aid the assembly. Now let's have some fun!

Download and review the Bill of Material
To acquire the printed parts files, download here.

Before you start buying the materials, you will need to complete the BOM by selecting the desired selections based on your preferable budget, setup and convenience in sourcing the parts. The options are highlighted in orange and the parts will auto-update the price and source link so take your time selecting your material.

Sourcing the printed parts may be a bit tricky since you will have to search around for someone or someplace with a 3D Printer. Look around if there's a local Hackerspace nearby, most likely they have 3D Printers that you can use or pay someone to print them for you. If you can't find anyone, PM me and I can work something out.

Update 6/11/13
A few people are having trouble finding someone with 3D Printers. I can list a few places to help aid the process.

List of Hackerspaces
Go to the Reprap Forum and locate a reprapper near you
http://www.reddit.com/r/reprapPIF/
http://www.reddit.com/r/reprapclassifieds/

Update 7/1/13
- Changed M6 x 120mm to 110mm. No vendors offer M6 x 120mm in fully threaded form, only up to 110mm. It's barely long enough so M6 washers can be disregarded in order for the M6 nuts to catch.
- Added Brainwave to the list of optional PCB board to choose from.
- Changed a few source links and price adjustments

Tools
- Digital Caliper
- Wire cutter (to cut zip ties)
- Needle nose plier
- Slip joint plier
- 2.5mm Hex screw (3/32")
- 2mm Hex screw (5/64")

**The digital caliper is the most essential tool you will need when assembling and for printing.**

These are the parts that make up the printer. They are ready to be downloaded and printed on any 3d printer that has a build area of at least 152mm x 152mm (6" x 6")

The Printed parts are listed as follows:
ITEM NO. | QTY. | PART NAME
1 1 Y End Motor
2 1 Y End Idler
3 1 Y Carriage_A
4 1 Y Carriage_B
5 1 X End Motor
6 1 X End Idler
7 1 X Carriage
8 1 Extruder mount
9 2 Frame Brace
10 1 Z Endstop - Knob Housing
11 1 Z Endstop - Endstop Housing
12 2 Z Housing
13 2 Z Rod Brace
14 4 Z Coupling
15 2 Top Z Stabilizer
16 2 Endstop mount
17 5 Knob
18 2 Belt Idler 608

Update 6/9/13
A small note for reprappers who are planning to print this. If you are using a 152mm x 152mm print bed, the Y Carriage A & B might be a challenge to print only if you are not utilizing your entire print area. You must calibrate you print area and orientate the part at a diagonal.

If you are plan on using the QU-BD MBE extruder, the Extruder Mount should be printed in ABS, not PLA. The clearance from the hotend to the Extruder Mount is rather close and might melt the PLA. Should be ok is using Jhead style hotend.

Materials
2 - Belt Idler 608
2 - 608 Skate Bearing

Procedure
1. Insert the 608 Skate Bearing into the Belt Idler all the way.

Materials
2 - Endstop Mount
2 - M3 Hex nut

Procedure
1. Insert M3 Hex nut into the Endstop Mount.

Materials
5 - Knob
5 - M3 Hex nut

Procedure
1. Insert and press M3 Hex nut into each Knob.

Materials
1 - Z End Stop - Knob Housing
1 - Z End Stop - Endstop housing
1 - Assembled Knob
1 - M3 Socket x 25mm
1 - M3 Hex nut
1 - Compessible spring


Procedure
1. Insert M3 Socket x 25mm into the Endstop housing
2. Thread M3 Hex nut to the M3 Socket up the hex nut trap
3. Tighten M3 socket, flush to the housing
4. Insert Spring
5. Take the Knob Housing and insert it through the M3 socket
6. Take the assembled knob and install.

Materials
1 - X Carriage
6 - M3 Hex nut
3 - LM8UU (Optional to install now, can wait until later on)

Procedure
1. Install 6 M3 Hex nut in nut traps

Materials
2 - Z Housing
8 - M3 Hex nut

Procedure
1. Install M3 Hex nut inside the nut traps.

Materials
2 - Nema17 set for Z
2 - Vinyl tubing

Procedure
1. Install vinyl tubing over the 5mm shaft of the Nema17.
2. Make sure the vinyl tube is flush against the tip of the shaft.
3. Both Nema17s should be wired together.

Materials
1 - X End Motor
2 - LM8UU
2 - Zip tie

Procedure
1. Insert both LM8UUs into the housing.
2. Secure LM8UUs with zip ties.

Materials
1 - X End Idler
2 - LM8UU
2 - Zip ties
1 - Assembled Belt Idler 608
1 - M8 Bolt x 30mm (5/16" x 1/4" Bolt)
2 - M8 Hex nut (5/16" Hex nut)
2 - M8 washer (1/4" washer)

Procedure
1. Insert M8 x 30mm into the Pulley Idler housing
2. Insert M8 washer
3. Insert M8 Hex nut
4. Insert assembled belt idler 608 as shown in picture. Make note of the orientation of the belt idler
5. Insert M8 washer
6. Insert and tigten M8 Hex nut
7. Flip X End Idler and insert both LM8UU into the housing
8. Zip tie LM8UU and secure tightly
9. Insert rod to ensure smooth movement. Adjust slightly to make them slide.

Materials
1 - Y End Idler
1 - Assembled Belt Idler 608
1 - M8 Bolt x 30mm (5/16" x 1-1/4" Bolt)
4 - M8 washer (1/4" washer)
1 - M8 Hex nut (5/16" hex nut)

Procedure
1. Insert M8 x 30mm into the assembled Belt idler 608, take note of the orientation.
2. Install 3 M8 Washers on the other end of the Belt Idler 608, enough washers to be past flush against the belt idler.
3. Insert partially assembled M8 x 30mm into the Y End Idler's pulley housing
4. Install M8 washer from the bottom
5. Install and tighten M8 Hex nut

Materials
4 - Z Coupler
8 - M3 Socket x 18mm
8 - M3 Hex nut
8 - M3 washers (Optional)

Procedure
1. Insert 8 M3 Hex nuts into the Z Coupler's nut traps
2. OPTIONAL: Install 8 M3 Washers into each M3 Sockets
3. Orientate the Z Coupler and Insert 8 M3 Socket x 18mm
4. Do not tighten

Materials
1 - Y Carriage_A
1 - Y Carriage_B
4 - LM8UU
2 - M6 Bolt x 110mm (1/4" x 5" Bolt)
8 - M6 Hex nut (1/4" Hex nut)
6 - M6 Washer (#18-8 Washer)

Procedure
1. Insert both M6 Bolt x 110mm into Y Carriage_A
2. Insert M6 Washer per bolt
3. Insert and tigthen M6 Hex nut per bolt
4. Insert M6 Hex nut per bolt
5. Insert M6 Washer per bolt
6. Insert Y Carriage_B
7. Configure the Y Carriage 47.1mm (1.85 inches) apart edge to edge, use drawing for reference.
8. Insert M6 Washer per bolt
9. Insert and tighten M6 Hex nut per bolt
10. Insert 4 LM8UU into the bearing housing
11. Insert linear rods to ensure smooth travel.

Update

Changed M6 x 120mm to 110mm. 120mm M6 bolts do not come in a fully threaded form, only up to 110mm. You can either fully thread the partially threaded 120mm M6 or use the 1/4" x 5" equivalent. If using 110mm M6, do not use washer at the end of the bolt.

There are two setups for the build plate, one for PLA only and the other for both PLA and ABS. Each setup will require pre-fabrication of parts to complete the build plate assembly.

PLA ONLY setup
Printing with PLA does not require a heatbed since it does not have the tendency to shrink and curl during a print. An aluminum or wooden plate can be used but will need to be cut down to 152mm x 152mm(6" x 6") and mounting holes drilled to fit on the Y Carriage. It is optional to install a glass plate on top for a flatter surface.
ABS & PLA setup
The PCB Heatbed is primarily used for ABS to prevent it from curling prematurely during a print but it can also be used for PLA by simply turning off the heatbed. This setup recommends the use of a glass plate and an insulation board.

For this setup, I use the PCB Heatbed/boriscillate glass plate as my build area. I prefer this setup because you do not need to perform any pre-fabricated work besides clipping the boriscillate glass' corners and simply cutting a piece of cardboard for insulation.

UPDATE 9/13/2013
Procedure to u pscale to 200mm x 200m (8" x 8") PCB Heat bed below

NOTES
- The PCB Heatbed should come with a pre-wired 100k thermistor, needed to measure the temperature.
- 100k thermistor should be secured with Kapton tape on the back of the PCB Heatbed, use thermal paste.
- Insulation material will need to withstand a temperature of up to 100 Celsius.

Materials
1 - 152mm x 152mm(6" x 6") PCB Heatbed
1 - 152mm x 152mm(6" x 6") Boriscillate glass (Need to clip corners to fit)
1 - Insulation board (optional)
1 - Sub-assembled Y Carriage
4 - Sub-assembled Knob
4 - M3 socket x 25mm
4 - M3 Washers
4 - Compressible spring
4 - Binder Clips

Procedure
1. Apply thermal compound and Install 100k thermistor on the back of the PCB Heatbed with Kapton Tape
2. Install Insulation board on the back of the PCB Heatbed, covering the 100k thermistor
3. Carefully clip all 4 corners of the glass plate
4. Place glass plate on top of the PCB Heatbed
5. Secure glass plate and insulation board with binder clips
6. Insert M3 Washers into each M3 socket x 25mm
7. Insert M3 socket x 25mm into the corners of the PCB Heatbed
8. Insert compressible springs to each M3 socket x 25mm
9. Install the assembled Y Carriage onto the PCB Heatbed and secure with assembled knobs
10. Insert 8mm drill rod to ensure smooth travel.

3DPrintMi Plus Build Plate configuration

Additional Materials
1 - 200mm x 200mm(8" x 8") PCB Heatbed
1 - 200mm x 200mm(8" x 8") Boriscillate glass
2 - Y Carriage Extenders_A
2 - Y Carriage Extenders_B
8 - M3 socket x 18mm
8 - M3 Washers
8 - M3 Nuts

Procedure
1. Press fit Y Carriage Extenders onto the 4 corners of the Y Carriage A & B. Sand down if necessary to make the parts fit.
2. Fasten Y Carriage Extenders with the M3 socket x 18mm
4. Follow the rest of the procedure above
3. Use pictorial guide for reference

Materials
1 - Assembled Y End Motor
1 - Assembled Y End Idler
4 - M8 Threaded Rod x 450mm (5/16" x 18" Threaded Rod)
24 - M8 Hex nut (5/16" Hex nut)
16 - M8 Washer (1/4" Washer)

Procedure
1. Match the M8 Hex nut and washers positions for each threaded rods shown in the pictorial guide
2. Install the threaded rods to the Y End Idler & Motor
3. To keep the rods evenly spaced, measure 40mm from the end of the threaded rods to the back side of the Y End Idler.

NOTES
- Hand tighten the nuts only, you will need to adjust them later.
- Follow the pictorial guide.

UPDATE 9/13/2013
For 3DPrintMi Plus configuration, follow the Plus size Base Frame dimensions in the pictorial guide

Materials
2 - Frame Brace

Procedure
1. Install both Frame Brace to the Y Gantry shown in the picture below.
2. Set the distance 90mm (3.50 inches) between the edge of the Frame Brace facing the Y End Idler to the front face of the Y End idler. Measure from the top and bottom of the parts to make the Y End Idler perpendicular.
3. Set the distance 144mm (5.75 inches) from the edge of the Frame Brace facing the Y End Motor to the front face of the Y End Motor.
4. Tighten all nuts with wrench

NOTES
- Configure the Base Frame's dimensions by referring to the drawing
- Use digital caliper to measure the distance
- Refer to pictorial guide to visual the assembly

UPDATE 9/13/2013
For 3DPrintMi Plus configuration, follow the Plus size Base Frame dimensions in the pictorial guide

Materials
2 - Assembled Z Housing
2 - M8 Threaded Rod x 400mm (5/16" x 16" Threaded Rod)
16 - M8 Hex nut (5/16" Hex nut)
16 - M8 Washer (1/4" Washer)

Procedure
1. Match the M8 Hex nut and washers positions for each threaded rods shown in the pictorial guide
2. Insert both assembled threaded rod between the Y Gantry, place outside of Frame Brace
3. Starting the the first assembled threaded rod closest to the Y End Idler, hand tighten the hex nuts to the Frame Brace, refer to pictorial guide.
4. Insert the Z Housing to each end of the assembled threaded rod
5.To keep the rods evenly spaced, measure 40mm from the end of the threaded rods to the base of the Z Housing
6. Insert and hand tighten the second assembled threaded to the Frame Brace and Z Housings
7. Set the distance 90mm (3.50 inches) between the side wall of the Frame Brace to the front face of the Z Housing. Measure from the top and bottom of the parts to make the Y End Idler perpendicular.
8. Tighten all nuts with plier

NOTES
- Configure the Base Frame's dimensions by referring to the drawing
- Use digital caliper to measure the distance
- Refer to pictorial guide to visual the assembly

Materials
1 - Assembled Build Plate
2 - 8mm drill rod x 450mm
4 - M3 x 18mm
4 - M3 Hex nut

Procedure
1. Insert both 8mm drill rod x 450mm to the assembled Build Plate
2. Drop the Build Plate's 8mm drill rods into the Y End Idler and Motor's clamp. Refer to pictorial guide.
3. To keep the drill rods evenly spaced, measure 40mm from the end of the rods to the base of the Y End idler
4. Insert M3 x 18mm into each clamp
5. Install and tighten M3 Hex nut

Materials
1 - Nema17 Motor with machined or printed GT2 Pulley
1 - GT2 belt
2 - M3 socket x 10mm
2 - M3 washer
2 - Zip ties

Procedure
1. Install Nema17 motor to the Y End Motor with M3 socket x 10mm and washers, refer to pictorial guide
2. Flip the Base Frame, place towel underneath to protect the build plate
3. Follow the pictorial guide to install the GT2 belt, tighten the belt as much as you can
4. When wrapping the belt around the Belt Pulley 608, flip it to the flat side of the belt. Refer to pictorial guide (This prevents the Y linear travel from "bouncing" due to the GT2 belt's teeth riding over the flat surface of the Belt Pulley. Not flipping the belt will result in wavy prints on the Y axis.)
5. OPTIONAL: Cut the extra GT2 belt off or wrap around the Y Carriage if you want to keep it. It is better to keep the extra length in case you want to increase the frame size.

Materials
2 - Nema17 Motor set for Z
4 - M3 socket x 10mm
4 - M3 washer

Procedure
1. Install Nema17 Motor with two M3 socket x 10mm and two washers per Z Housings

NOTES
- Follow pictorial guide for reference
- Wires should be facing the center of the Base Frame

Materials
2 - Z Rod Brace
2 - 8mm x 450mm drill rod
8 - M3 socket x 18mm
8 - M3 washer

Procedure
1. Insert all M3 washers to each M3 socket x 18mm
2. Insert M3 socket x 18mm with washers to the Z Rod Brace
3. Install 8mm x 450mm drill rod into the Z Housing
4. Install and tighten the Z Rod Brace into the Z Housing
5. Do for both sides

NOTES
- Follow pictorial guide for reference

Materials
2 - Assembled Z Coupling
2 - M8 Threaded rod x 300mm (5/16" x 12" Threaded rod)
2 - M8 Hex nut (5/16" Hex nut)

Procedure
1. Insert assembled Z Coupling with the larger diameter hole to the shaft of the Nema17 Z motors.
2. Make sure the Z Coupling is flushed with the smaller diameter hole and tighten the bottom M3 sockets but not all the way. Leave some slack to allow the Z Coupling to move around.
3. Install M8 Hex nut to each of the M8 threaded rod about
4. Insert M8 Threaded rod x 300mm into the top of the Z Coupling, tighten the top M3 sockets.

NOTES
- Z Coupling around the vinyl tube should have some degree of movement to prevent over-constraining the Lead Axis
- 1/4"-16 acme rods are direct replacement for M8 (5/16")
- M6 Threaded rods for lead screws requires a Z coupling designed to accept 6mm and a M8 to M6 nut adapter

Materials
1 - Assembled X End Idler
1 - Assembled X End Motor
2 - 8mm drill rod x 450mm
3 - LM8UU

Procedure
1. Insert both 8mm drill rod x 450mm into the X End Idler, make sure the Belt Idler is on the outside as shown in the picture
2. Insert 2 LM8UU on the top drill rod and 1 LM8UU on the bottom
3.Insert the X End Motor on the other end of the 8mm drill rods
4. Line up the LM8UU bearings on the X Ends with the Z axis drill rod
5. Drop the X Gantry onto the Z axis drill rod, make sure the lead screw goes through the Z nut housing
6. Push the hex nut installed on the lead screw until fully seated inside the nut housing

Materials
1 - Assembled X Carriage

Procedure
1. Insert the LM8UU on the X gantry to the X Carriage.

MBE style extruder setup
1 - Extruder Mount
2 - M3 socket x 25mm
2 - M3 socket x 10mm
4 - M3 washer

Procedure
1. Insert M3 washer to M3 sockets
2. Insert two M3 socket x 25mm at the top and two M3 socket x 10mm at the bottom of the Extruder Mount
3. Install Extruder Mount onto the lower side of the X Carriage, refer to pictorial guide
--------------------------------------------------------

Wade Extruder setup
1 - Extruder Mount
4 - M3 socket x 25mm
4 - M3 washer

Procedure
1. Insert M3 washer to M3 sockets
2. Insert four M3 socket x 25mm on the Extruder Mount
3. Install Extruder Mount onto the upper side of the X Carriage, refer to pictorial guide

Materials
2 - Top Z Stabilizer
1 - M8 x 400mm Threaded rod
4 - M8 Hex nut
4 - M8 washer
2 - M3 socket x 18mm
2 - M3 Hex nut
4 - M3 washers

Procedure
1. Insert M3 washer into M3 x 18mm
2. Insert M3 socket x 18mm in each Top Z Stabilizer
3. Install M3 washer and hex nut, hand tighten
4. Insert Top Z Stabilizers on the Z axis drill rod
5. Insert M8 nuts and washers on the M8 x 400mm Threaded rod, refer to pictorial guide for positions
6. Drop the M8 x 400mm threaded rod on top of the Z Top Stabilizers, tighten all nuts and bolts.

Materials
1 - Nema17 with GT2 pulley
1 - GT2 belt pulley
4 - M3 socket x 10mm
4 - M3 washer
2 - Zip ties

Procedure
1. Insert M3 washers into each M3 socket x 10mm
2. Install Nema17 and tighten all M3 sockets
3. Install GT2 belt, follow pictorial guide

Materials
2 - assembled Endstop
2 - Pre-assembled mechanical endstop
2 - Zip tie
2 - M3 socket x 18mm

Procedure
1. Zip tie each mechanical endstop to the printed Endstop, refer to pictorial guide for positioning
2. Mount the first Endstop to the drill rod closest to the Y End Idler, tighten with M3 socket x 18mm
3. Mount the second Endstop to the drill rod closest to the X End Motor, tighten with M3 socket x 18mm

Materials
1 - Assembled Z Endstop
1 - Pre-assembled mechanical endstop
1 - M3 socket x 18mm
1 - M3 hex nut

Procedure
1. Snap fit the assembled Z Endstop
2. Install mechanical endstop to the printed Endstop
3. Insert M3 socket x 18mm and and tighten with M3 hex nut

Welcome to the end of the guide! I hope this instructable has aided you in building the 3DPrintMi from sourced parts to a full blown 3D Printer. I did not get the opportunity to document the electronic assembly since I already done this previously. Buying another set of electronics is a lot more expensive than the hardware to build the machine. Check out the Reprap wiki/forums to find documentations in wiring your 3D Printer. Some vendors sell electronic kits, giving all the wires and connectors pre-assembled.

I will edit the instructable here and there to fix anything that's wrong and add more information if needed.

Good luck and happy printing!