ACOUSTIC TO ELECTRIC GUITAR CONVERSION

This is an easy way to add amplification to an ordinary acoustic guitar. I started with an older instrument which, frankly, had seen better days. I would not do this with an upscale hand made unit. It is, however, a great way to improve an entry level, or in my case, older model guitar. I had previously done a bridge replacement on this guitar. You can check it out here: https://www.instructables.com/ACOUSTIC-GUITAR-BRIDGE-REPLACEMENT/

Materials and Tools

 I used a “Musiclilly (Brand Name) Pre- Wired Sound- Hole Pickup.” It came complete with the pickup, volume and tone controls, outlet jack (all assembled and soldered) plus all knobs and hardware. I purchased it from Amazon for $20 CDN. It can also be ordered from the manufacturer’s website: https://musiclily.com/products/musiclily-pre-wired-sound-hole-single-coil-pickup-wiring-harness-for-6-string-guitar-black-m252

You could also purchase the individual parts and wire them yourself, if you want to upgrade to higher quality components, but this will cost more. I provided a pictorial diagram of a typical hookup and parts list if this will be your route. 

I advise a new set of strings as well.

A tool I found invaluable is a step- drill bit. Designed for drilling metal, it is perfect for making holes in the thin wood of the guitar body. Also, a 10mm and 13mm wrench to tighten the potentiometers and socket jack (use the round end to keep from scratching the finish), a 5/64” drill bit and a small Phillips screwdriver are required.

Remove the strings by backing off the tuning pegs till each string is slack, then pull out the bridge pins to release the strings. Keep the bridge pins to re-use.

At this point it is a good idea to clean up the guitar.

Optional: The finish had really taken a beating, so I sanded the flat top and pick guard with #800 and then #2000 wet sandpaper to remove all scratches, being careful not to sand through the black top coat. When dry and clean, I masked everything and gave it 3 coats of Rustoleum clear matte spray lacquer, waiting a day between each coat. This restored the finish and removed all scratches.

 Check by feeling through the sound hole to locate the ribs. Make a paper template of the outside of the lower section of the guitar. Push it through the sound hole, pressing it against the underside, creasing it against the ribs. Pencil in the rib locations then mark the desired placement of the control knobs on it so they miss the ribs. Set the template on the flat top and transfer the locations by drilling through with the 5/64” bit. Also mark the location for the socket on the lower side of the body and drill a pilot hole with the 5/64” bit. Use the step- drill bit chucked into a portable drill to finish drilling the holes to the sizes required. I used a vacuum to remove any wood debris from the interior.

Start by installing the socket first. Reach through the sound hole to access the location. (If you have big hands like me, use a pencil inserted in the backside of the socket to push it through.) Attach the washer and nut using the wrench to tighten using minimal pressure. Next, attach the tone control. Lastly, the volume control. Route all wires so they will not be seen through the sound hole. (Also, the ground wire is redundant as there is no metal to connect it to, and can be removed.) Place the pickup dead centre in the sound hole. Drill through the mounting holes with the 5/64” bit, then attach wth the 2 supplied Phillips head wood screws. Push the appropriate knobs on to the potentiometers. Lastly, re-string the guitar. 

After tuning your guitar, plug into the amp and play. Adjust the volume and tone controls to your liking. You may have to raise the pickup to get a better sound. Do this by adjusting the two Phillips adjustment screws on the pickup till you get the desired effect. You should get a nice resonant sound, different from a regular electric guitar. And the bonus: You can still play it as an acoustic if you desire.