Ancient Shrine Build
This project is inspired by the architecture in the Legend of Zelda Breath of the Wild (BotW) videogame and I have wanted to recreate it as a small model. It was a great opportunity to make a realistic Ancient Shrine before the next installment of the series is released to share the appreciation many people have for BotW. Plus, I think it will look really cool on the corner of my desk. I made a sketch and rough dimension of some important feature that would help construct the model.
Supplies
Styrofoam cups and plate, All purpose concrete mix, clear tape, masking tape, blue LED, orange LED, cell battery holder with switch, cell battery (CR 2032), plastic wrap, cardboard, Clear glue, acrylic paint (black, orange, blue, viridian), solder, electrical wire, heat shrink
Tools:
Scissors, ruler, fine - point brush, slender retractable box cutter, pen, soldering iron
Tools:
Scissors, ruler, fine - point brush, slender retractable box cutter, pen, soldering iron
Cut Cardboard and Make a Mold
Acquire any spare pieces of corrugated cardboard such as from as packages. I then measured and cut two rectangles out to be 23 cm by 17 cm. This is done to fit the outline of the base of the ancient shrine drawn in the sketch.
Afterwards outline the base of the ancient shrine onto the cardboard allowing space around the outline. Then cut out the shape out of both the pieces of cardboard and masking tape them together to make a mold shape. On the bottom of the two layered mold place clear tape across the gap. Flip it back and line the sticky bottom and sides with the plastic wrap to complete the mold.
In a Styrofoam cup, pour in about halfway the height of the cup with the all-purpose concrete and add water in small quantities until the mixture is a dampened loamy texture. Then, pour into the mold and keep in a dry place to harden.
Afterwards outline the base of the ancient shrine onto the cardboard allowing space around the outline. Then cut out the shape out of both the pieces of cardboard and masking tape them together to make a mold shape. On the bottom of the two layered mold place clear tape across the gap. Flip it back and line the sticky bottom and sides with the plastic wrap to complete the mold.
In a Styrofoam cup, pour in about halfway the height of the cup with the all-purpose concrete and add water in small quantities until the mixture is a dampened loamy texture. Then, pour into the mold and keep in a dry place to harden.
Concrete Base and Led Shrine Placement
Once the base has dried which should take about 24 hours to be dry enough to handle or sooner depending on how favorable drying conditions are. Afterwards obtain a styrofoam cup and place it upside down on the wide section, this will eventually serve as the stack structure.
With a pen mark out the four places to place the blue LEDs which I have decided to scatter about in the front lower half of the styrofoam cup. Then I marked the center top half of the cup for the location of the orange LED where the "eye" marking usually resides. Then I began soldering two blue LEDs in series where I connected an anode to another LED's cathode which has a triangular flag shape in the LED bulb. Usually the longer LED lead suggests it is the anode but that was not the case with my own LED so I suggest looking into the bulb to identify the + anode and - cathode. Place heat shrink tubing and use the hot iron to insulate the exposed solder connections. Solder the other two blue LEDs in a separate LED series assembly and attach wires to the orange LED which should be long enough to reach the other LEDs when place in the marked spot on the cup. Next twist the ends of the wires of the LEDs into two groups; one consists of the negative cathode leads and the other of the positive anode leads to make a parallel circuit. This is done to the LEDs recieve recieve as much equal amounts of voltage to make an even lighting in the end. Finally solder in the cell battery holder w/ switch and place into the styrofoam cup marking. Be sure to leave the battery holder trailing outside the cup. Then secure the inside wiring with tape and glue the cup down to the base.
With a pen mark out the four places to place the blue LEDs which I have decided to scatter about in the front lower half of the styrofoam cup. Then I marked the center top half of the cup for the location of the orange LED where the "eye" marking usually resides. Then I began soldering two blue LEDs in series where I connected an anode to another LED's cathode which has a triangular flag shape in the LED bulb. Usually the longer LED lead suggests it is the anode but that was not the case with my own LED so I suggest looking into the bulb to identify the + anode and - cathode. Place heat shrink tubing and use the hot iron to insulate the exposed solder connections. Solder the other two blue LEDs in a separate LED series assembly and attach wires to the orange LED which should be long enough to reach the other LEDs when place in the marked spot on the cup. Next twist the ends of the wires of the LEDs into two groups; one consists of the negative cathode leads and the other of the positive anode leads to make a parallel circuit. This is done to the LEDs recieve recieve as much equal amounts of voltage to make an even lighting in the end. Finally solder in the cell battery holder w/ switch and place into the styrofoam cup marking. Be sure to leave the battery holder trailing outside the cup. Then secure the inside wiring with tape and glue the cup down to the base.
Building and Sculpting the Ancient Shrine
In a styrofoam plate acquire more all- purpose concrete and some spackling paste on the plate. With a plastic spoon or tool mix the two into a grey textured mix which will be used to cover the sides of the styrofoam cup.
Using the sketch as reference or a picture of an Ancient shrine from google, spread the it upon the lower side of the cup and the concrete base. While doing so try not to cover up the exposed LEDs. Once all the grey concrete spackling paste is used to make the outer most detail then obtain more spackling paste on the plate.
With normal spackling paste cover the rest of the cup in a thin smooth layer since the upper half is a smooth texture. The top of the cup should have a thicker layer to make a roundish top.
Afterwards with a slender box cutter or a Sculpting tool if you have one, make deep lines and lined groove mimicking the details on the Ancient shrine from the game.
Once it drys, use a fine- point brush and black acrylic paint to paint in the grooves of the detailed lower base. Near the blue LED use blue acrylic paint and paint blue in some grooves (any where you would like). Near the orange LED paint a sheikah tribe "eye" marking with orange acrylic.
Using the sketch as reference or a picture of an Ancient shrine from google, spread the it upon the lower side of the cup and the concrete base. While doing so try not to cover up the exposed LEDs. Once all the grey concrete spackling paste is used to make the outer most detail then obtain more spackling paste on the plate.
With normal spackling paste cover the rest of the cup in a thin smooth layer since the upper half is a smooth texture. The top of the cup should have a thicker layer to make a roundish top.
Afterwards with a slender box cutter or a Sculpting tool if you have one, make deep lines and lined groove mimicking the details on the Ancient shrine from the game.
Once it drys, use a fine- point brush and black acrylic paint to paint in the grooves of the detailed lower base. Near the blue LED use blue acrylic paint and paint blue in some grooves (any where you would like). Near the orange LED paint a sheikah tribe "eye" marking with orange acrylic.
Final Coloring and Light Up
Since I wanted a moss covered Ancient shrine I used viridian and black paint to color the light spackling upper half and painted in splash of viridian green around the base. Then near the LEDS I painted the tops to deflect lights to the sides.
Finally I added CR 2032 cell batteries and lit it up in the ambient darkness and was pleased with how it looked.
What else could I do?
So now as I finished it I thought about using the empty space in the stack as possible cable management where I could charge a phone possible.
I would like to thank those reading and hope you were inspired and enjoyed my instructable.
Finally I added CR 2032 cell batteries and lit it up in the ambient darkness and was pleased with how it looked.
What else could I do?
So now as I finished it I thought about using the empty space in the stack as possible cable management where I could charge a phone possible.
I would like to thank those reading and hope you were inspired and enjoyed my instructable.