Building a Solid Pine Wood, Finger Jointed Guitar Amplifier Cabinet.
by ampRiser in Workshop > Woodworking
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Building a Solid Pine Wood, Finger Jointed Guitar Amplifier Cabinet.
Building a solid pine wood, finger jointed guitar amplifier for my Fender pro Jr.
Done the same way Leo Fender did back in 1946.
There is Nothing like the Warm sound of a pine wood cabinet!
Fender is a licensed trademark for FMIC Not to be affiliated with ampRiser or instructables.com
Done the same way Leo Fender did back in 1946.
There is Nothing like the Warm sound of a pine wood cabinet!
Fender is a licensed trademark for FMIC Not to be affiliated with ampRiser or instructables.com
Measuring the Four Sections to Be Cut
The Fender pro jr. cabinet measures 14 1/2" H x 15 1/4" W x 8 3/4" D
I wanted the wood grain to match throughout the cabinet,
After purchasing a piece of select pine wood 1" thick 10" wide and 8' in length,
I carefully marked the 4 sections to be cut at 14.5" then 15.25" then 14.5" then 15.25"
Measure Twice CUT Once! Make sure to always were proper safety glasses and
read and understand the proper use of your power tools!
I used my radial arm saw to cut the sections.
I wanted the wood grain to match throughout the cabinet,
After purchasing a piece of select pine wood 1" thick 10" wide and 8' in length,
I carefully marked the 4 sections to be cut at 14.5" then 15.25" then 14.5" then 15.25"
Measure Twice CUT Once! Make sure to always were proper safety glasses and
read and understand the proper use of your power tools!
I used my radial arm saw to cut the sections.
Numbering the Cut Sections
After the sections are cut I number them so that they will go together in the proper order.
Dry Fit the Sections
After the sections are cut and numbered in order
for proper assembly.
I dry fit them to see how the cabinet will look,
notice how the wood grain matches and follows
throughout the cabinet.
for proper assembly.
I dry fit them to see how the cabinet will look,
notice how the wood grain matches and follows
throughout the cabinet.
Cutting the Finger Joints
After the 4 sections are cut and numbered 1-4
I set up sections 1 and 3 in my finger joint jig
to be cut with my router.
1" stock is actually 3/4" thick, so I set the depth of cut at 3/4"
sections 1 and 3 start the cutting at an open finger on the jig
sections 2 and 4 start the cutting at the finger of the jig,
that way they are of set and will go together properly.
*Remember to ALWAYS wear safety glasses*
I set up sections 1 and 3 in my finger joint jig
to be cut with my router.
1" stock is actually 3/4" thick, so I set the depth of cut at 3/4"
sections 1 and 3 start the cutting at an open finger on the jig
sections 2 and 4 start the cutting at the finger of the jig,
that way they are of set and will go together properly.
*Remember to ALWAYS wear safety glasses*
Dry Fit the Cut Sections
Once again I dry fit the cut sections to check for proper fit.
(finger jointing a cabinet can be complicated and requires
special tools and skills, so if you want you could skip
these steps and simply assemble the cabinet with out them?)
(finger jointing a cabinet can be complicated and requires
special tools and skills, so if you want you could skip
these steps and simply assemble the cabinet with out them?)
Applying the Glue
After dry fitting the sections I carefully apply quality wood glue
to all the surfaces of the cut finger joints.
I usually apply 3 or more coats of glue
allowing them to set up and soak into the wood for a couple of minutes.
to all the surfaces of the cut finger joints.
I usually apply 3 or more coats of glue
allowing them to set up and soak into the wood for a couple of minutes.
Start to Assemble
I usually apply glue to the bottom of the two sides
and both sides of the bottom section, then set up corner clamps,
apply glue to the top of the sides and top section,
allowing to set up a few minutes before complete assembling.
and both sides of the bottom section, then set up corner clamps,
apply glue to the top of the sides and top section,
allowing to set up a few minutes before complete assembling.
Assemble and Clamp
After completely gluing and assembling,
I clamp the cabinet at every possible angle.
I start by applying only enough pressure to hold the cabinet together,
and slowly tighten over a few minutes.
This allows the glue to react and set properly.
I clamp the cabinet at every possible angle.
I start by applying only enough pressure to hold the cabinet together,
and slowly tighten over a few minutes.
This allows the glue to react and set properly.
Remove the Clamps and Sand
After allowing the glued and clamped cabinet
at least 24 hours to set, I remove the clamps,
and give the cabinet a basic overall sanding.
at least 24 hours to set, I remove the clamps,
and give the cabinet a basic overall sanding.
Cutting the Angled Front
After the cabinet has been lightly sanded,
I set up my guide on the table saw at about 3 deg.
so that I can cut the angled front of the cabinet.
The cabinet was made square 14.5 x 15.25 x 10"
so that I could finger joint the cabinet easier.
the cabinet actually has an angled front.
the TOP measures 8.75" and tappers down to 9.5"
(This procedure is NOT easy)
*Always wear your safety glasses*
I set up my guide on the table saw at about 3 deg.
so that I can cut the angled front of the cabinet.
The cabinet was made square 14.5 x 15.25 x 10"
so that I could finger joint the cabinet easier.
the cabinet actually has an angled front.
the TOP measures 8.75" and tappers down to 9.5"
(This procedure is NOT easy)
*Always wear your safety glasses*
Finishing the Angled Cut
The sides of the cabinet are cut to the 3 deg. angle
and the Top and Bottom are cut straight.
This cut is hard to do perfectly,
so when I am done I will have to sand the
imperfections.
and the Top and Bottom are cut straight.
This cut is hard to do perfectly,
so when I am done I will have to sand the
imperfections.
Adding the Speaker Baffle Trim
After the cabinet has been sanded,
I cut two pieces of 3/8" thick x 1" W x 12 3/4" L
with a 3 deg. bevel on the sides.
These are glued and clamped to the inside
of the front of the cabinet.
These sections will be used to accept the speaker baffle.
I cut two pieces of 3/8" thick x 1" W x 12 3/4" L
with a 3 deg. bevel on the sides.
These are glued and clamped to the inside
of the front of the cabinet.
These sections will be used to accept the speaker baffle.
Measuring and Marking for the Amplifier Chassis
Measure and mark the section to be cut out for the amplifier chassis.
Cutting the Amp Chassis Section Out
After carefully measuring and marking,
I cut the section out using a scroll saw.
*WEAR YOUR SAFETY GLASSES*
measure Twice CUT Once!!!
I cut the section out using a scroll saw.
*WEAR YOUR SAFETY GLASSES*
measure Twice CUT Once!!!
Rounding Over the Edges
After cutting out the section for the amp chassis,
I carefully round over the edges with my router table.
I used a 3/4" round over bit.
*WEAR YOUR SAFETY GLASSES*
I carefully round over the edges with my router table.
I used a 3/4" round over bit.
*WEAR YOUR SAFETY GLASSES*
Finish Rounding Over
I round over all the edges to the cabinet.
*PLEASE WEAR YOUR SAFETY GLASSES!*
*PLEASE WEAR YOUR SAFETY GLASSES!*
Final Sanding
After rounding over all the edges,
I give the cabinet a final sanding.
The cabinet is finally starting to take shape!
I give the cabinet a final sanding.
The cabinet is finally starting to take shape!
Fitting the Amp Chassis
Next I will measure and mark the holes for the amplifier
chassis.
*My NEXT Instructable I will show the making of the speaker baffle
covering the cabinet with TOLEX and installing the amp and speaker*
chassis.
*My NEXT Instructable I will show the making of the speaker baffle
covering the cabinet with TOLEX and installing the amp and speaker*