Camera Mount for a Motorcycle (Rear Peg)

I have been scouring the net for a camera mount for my sport bike for quite a while now. Everything I find is either too expensive, clunky, or too hard to install/uninstall. Some are all three! One day I had an epiphany and came up with this design. It's simple, easy, and can be installed in seconds. It should fit most bikes with passenger foot pegs. It can be made in about 30 minutes for under $20.

Parts you will need
(all parts purchased at Lowes except for the plug, which was found at Home Depot)

1" Square x 3'-0" Aluminum Tube: $11.23
(2) 1/4" x 1 1/2"Thumbscrews: $1.27(for two)
1/4" x 5/16" Tee Nut: $3.08
1/4" hex nut: free (I have a ton laying around)
1"Dia x 3/8" Nylon spacer (3/8hole): $1.51 (for two)
1" Square plastic plug : $1.43 (for four)

Tools used:
Drill
Hacksaw
Tape measure or ruler
Pencil
Small drill bit (I used 3/32)
1/4" drill bit
5/16 drill bit
Metal adhesive
Paint (optional)

Take the aluminum tube and cut a 6" section. This works good for my bike, but can be adjusted per your preferences. I would suggest NOT exceeding 6" though; you don't want the camera scraping the ground on those wicked turns!!

We will need holes at both ends. Always start by drilling a small pilot hole first. This makes it much easier to drill the larger holes in the correct location. Drill a 5/16 hole through the bottom, 1/2" from the end. Drill a 1/4" hole through both top and bottom, located 1 1/4" from the other end. It is very important that these holes are all centered in the tube.

Using the metal adhesive, glue the tee nut inside the tube, projecting through the 5/16 hole. The glue isn't a structural connection, it's just to keep the nut from falling out when not in use. If needed, you can hold the tee nut in place while the glue is drying by threading one of the thumb screws into it.

Glue the nylon spacer over the TOP 1/4" hole. Be sure it is centered and no glue gets into the hole. (Note: I believe a rubber spacer would be better than the nylon, as it would help absorb some vibration, but I havent found any yet. You could also experiment with using a smaller nylon spacer, but attaching it with double sided foam tape)

OPTIONAL: Paint the camera mount. Black is always a good color.

ALSO: After some additional testing I realized a passenger still has room for their feet with this mount. (assuming they don't have Shaq feet) If you plan on using this mount with a passenger, I'd suggest putting a strip of grip tape on the top.

Thread a thumb screw into the tee nut. Insert the other thumb screw through the bottom hole, and then thread on the 1/4" hex nut. Run the hex nut about 3/4 down the thumb screw, but DO NOT TIGHTEN it. This nut should only prevent the thumb screw from falling out when not in use. Push end cap into the outer end of the mount.

This mount should support most digital cameras and small camcorders. You have the flexibility to position the camera either front or rear-wards. (or even install two at once!)

Be sure to put a small piece of tape over the mic on your camera or the wind noise will overpower it. (I forgot the tape in my test run video)

Per a few requests I tried a rearward facing camera test. On this test I had a passenger, and I also tried using foam tape over the mic. It worked -ok-, I was hoping for better results.

Here's my third and final video test. It's a forward view, with passenger and foam. It follows the exact same path as test #2. Again, the foam tape helped, but not as much as I would have liked. I had the camera turned inward a little bit more than ideal, but you can see some shift-action (seen at time 2:40)

If you notice a few spots near the beginning where my driving seems a little awkward, that's because there're some cars just out of view threatening to hit me. :)