Copper Framed Tablet Holder

by Chris Rode in Workshop > Metalworking

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Copper Framed Tablet Holder

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After building my Knife Block. I had extra materials left over so I decided to build this Copper Framed Tablet Holder, to match my Knife Block.

It has three rotation points for multiple angles and is alot more sturdy than I thought it would be. It does have a tiny bounce if hit. It would work great anywhere not just the kitchen.

Tools Used
Table saw ( circular saw will work. )

soldering Torch, solder and flux ( if you don't want to solder, epoxy glue will work for the copper joints )

Palm Sander with fine and extra fine sand paper.

Multi-bit Screwdriver.

Pipe Cutter

Drill

Materials
1 - 3/4" thick Oak cut an inch larger then your tablet. ( I used Red Oak because I like the look of Oak. Any wood will work just find some with a cool grain pattern)

4 - 3/4" thick Oak cut 1.5"x1.5"

1 - 3/4" thick Oak cut 3"x3" minimum. This is for what goes under the counter.

3 Feet - 1/2" copper pipe

7 - 1/2" copper tee.

7 - 1/2" 90 deg female/male copper elbows

9 - 1/2" 90 deg female/female copper elbows

1 - Copper hose connector to 1/2" pipe

1 - Out door hose repair kit. (Brass)

1 - 3/4" Tee nut with 3/4" bolt and washer to fit.

1 - Large washer.

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Cut the wood to dimensions.

Sand with fine grit sand paper first and finish off using very fine grit.

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Drill 3/4" holes 1/2" deep into the 4 little pieces of wood.

Predrill some screw holes and screw the little blocks to the main piece of wood.

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Start building the copper pipe frame around your pieces of wood. Have fun with this, try building it in different patterns.

When your copper frame is ready, go stain and Polyurethane all the wood.

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Solder the 4 arm joints together. You can use epoxy if you dont want to solder.

Then solder the middle frame.

In the last picture this is all you want to solder together at this stage.

Tips I found for soldering:
1 Sand and flux the joints.

2 Apply lots of heat to the joint and if the solder doesn't melt on contact, get it hotter.

3 The heat will suck the solder into the pipe.

CAUTION: The pipes get VERY hot! Let it stand for atleast 30 min before attempting to touch it.

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Solder the copper pipe for the main rotating hinge.

These two pieces do not get soldered together. I had to pry the bars apart in order to get the hinge together. (tight fit)

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To clean the tarnish off the copper from the soldering. I put all the copper in a container added rock salt and filled it with vinegar. Let it sit for 20 min, shaking it every 5 min.

The copper will come out nice and shiny.

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Put the entire frame together and get ready to do your last solder. This last solder is a bit tricky. Be careful to keep the flame away from the wood.

I used a screw tighten clamp around the joint there so I could tighten the force on this tilt joint.

The last picture shows the solder spots and where not to solder.

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With a hack saw, cut the brass hose connector to a lenth shorter then 3/4"

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Drill a 5/16" hole through the piece of wood going to the base of the cabinet. Predrill some screw holes in the corners to make the instal easier.

I broke the piece of Oak, so had to switch to a piece of scrap wood. It is going under the counter so it wont really be seen.

I chiseled enough room so that when I hammered the tee nut into place, it would be flush with the wood.

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Flip it over and place the large washer, then the garden hose connector and hammer it till it is tight. Use a ratchet wrench bit with extender and hammer it into place.

Then add the other washer and tighten the 3/4" bolt to the tee nut.

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Attach the mount under the cabinet with wood screws.

Connect the entire thing to the mount. I used a wrench also to tighten it good.

DONE!!