Couch Arm Table

Couch arm table w/ shelf

(3 or 4) 1in x 12in x 4ft board *hardwood or softwood of your choosing...I used Pine to save on cost

Wood screws *optional dowels and/or brad nails

Wood glue

Wood filler *wood putty does not stain very well, but can use putty, filler, or spackle with paint

Kreg tool - Pocket Hole Jig

Router tool *not necessary, but makes project look more professional and clean

Stain or Paint *wood conditioner/pre-stain, optional

Polyurethane *Pictured without a top coat, but I plan to coat with a Satin poly

Table saw or Circular saw

Hand sander *I used 180 and 320 grit

T-square or Level

Clamps

Pencil

Measuring Tape

Screw driver and bits

NOTE: I made these tables by repurposing a C-table end table that I had made years prior (pictured). I used the wood from that project, plus a small cut of 1/2in plywood (which I had on hand already).

For a cleaner and more professional look, you may want to use the same size/type of wood for the entire project. Personally, I preferred using the thinner 1/2 in plywood piece for the inside of the couch. It's isn't as bulky and takes up less sitting space. Although, it would look better having used a 1/2 in thick pine board (however, not easily found or resawed). I also made some mistakes when routing that I did not account for, so the joint does not butt up as squarely as I had hoped.

I sanded off the previous (very very dark) stain that I had used, so you can still see that dark tone underneath the new lighter stain. I had to disc sand to get the previous stain off, then used a hand sander for a more polished look.

I made 2 tables from this repurposed project. This took a half-day and I used a circular saw instead of a table saw. Table saw would have been quicker and more precise, but I knew I could do just as good of a job with a circular saw and a straight edge. A circular saw was more accessible to me, at the time. My measurements did not need to be very exact, just duplicated.

**KEEP IN MIND pre-cut wood measurements are never as advertised, they are always 1/4-1/2 inch smaller

This will depend on the size of your couch arm and the exact style you want. My measurements are listed below for reference:

Couch arm width: 10 inches

• 13-1/2 (L) x 11-1/4 (W) A - top
• 11 (L) x 11-1/4 (W) B - outside arm
• 2 (L) x 11-1/4 (W) C - shelf base
• 4-1/2 (L) x 11-1/4 (W) D - shelf lip
• 6 (L) x 11-1/4 E - inside arm (this I used with 1/2 in plywood)

I attached the wood using pocket holes joints and butt joints. If I were to do this again, I would maybe use dowels, mitre joint, or perhaps brad nails for some joints. I really wanted this piece to be strong, so I opted for screws and filled the holes. Trying to pocket hole a 1/2 in board usually doesn't work...if you had a thicker piece, it should.

OPTIONAL

• Router A on 3 edges, TOP side only
• Router D on top edge, both sides
• Router E on all 4 edges, BACK side only

ASSEMBLY

1. Sand all pieces
2. Use Kreg tool to make evenly spaced pocket holes on piece B
3. Screw in B to A, 10 inches from the edge of A (couch arm width)
4. Butt up C to the bottom of B and screw in from the inside of B (unseen side, against the couch)
5. Butt up D to C and screw in evenly spaced (optional: wood glue & dowel joints OR brad nails)
6. Attach E to edge of A and screw in evenly spaced (optional: wood glue & dowel joints OR brad nails)
7. Stain, poly, or paint

TIPS

• Fill in any holes with wood filler (staining) or wood putty/spackle (painting)
• Use wood glue where appropriate
• Sand thoroughly
• Wood conditioner before stain helps the stain go on more evenly...BUT it will give your piece a yellow undertone...I almost never use it)