Creative Robotix - Educational Platform - Robee

This instructable builds an alternative skin for our Creative Robotix Educational Platform. First, construct the platform to step 23, then resume the build from the next step.

The design files are split into two ZIP files, the CR-E Platform set forms the Creative Robotix robot base educational platform which can be 'skinned' to take on different robot characters. The RobEE file set is a character 'skin' which can be applied to the base. Download the design files and print them. We have tested these files on an UP BOX, printing in PLA. If you don't have access to a 3D printer then you might like to try the following online service 3D Hubs. We have also provided UP files with print layouts for the UPBOX+ and UP Box Mini.

• Apply a strip of double sided tape to the ultrasound holder.
• Connect the sensor wiring according to the pin mapping in the previous step
• Press fit the sensor into the sensor holder, it should be quite snug.
• Fit the holder over the body, you may need to apply a slight bend to lift the holder strut over the side of the body.

Thumbs Up! Using two of the long servo arm mounts from the Tower Pro secure them to the upper arms with two 5mm self-tapping screws, ensuring correct orientation, for left arm, right arm.

• Mount the remaining long servo arm to the head mount bracket using two 5mm self-tapping screws.

Using the long nosed pliers, fit the 5mm LED plastic mounts into each eye socket and mouth, they should push through so that the rear clasps protrude through into the rear of the head cavity as shown. Ensure all LED's are aligned, flat edge facing up, leads vertically aligned, with the shortest to the bottom. Use the pliers to bend the LED leads from mouth, right, at roughly 45 degrees. Cut all leads so that they are of equal length.

Tips that worked for us:

• If the LED clasps are a little tight, or do not allow the LED eyes to be easily pushed through, then you may widen the eyes at the rear by gently removing some of the plastic. This can be achieved with a Philips head screw driver which is larger than the rear eye holes, or with the pliers.

Strip off 3 pairs of three wires from the main set of patch wires. Select two pairs of 3 for the eyes. Pare back one wire on each, this will be the ground wire. Cut the other two wires in each pair at the mid point. Use the automatic wire stripper to bare 5mm of copper at each of the four cut ends. Pair up the pairs twisting the ends together. Place resistor in series. Take two 220 Ohm resistors and twist one into each of the twisted pairs. Take one shorter cut wire and twist on to the other end of each resistor. Insulate the expose wires. Repeat for the mouth cable.

Wire up the eye LED's the common patch wire in each pair attaches to the middle leg of each eye LED. The wires sharing the same twisted pair should connect to leads in the same position on each eye. Wire up the mouth LED with the mouth cable. The common wire should connect to the middle leg of the LED. Ensure the female connectors have a reasonable hold onto the LED legs. Secure connectors with a square of insulating tape.

Tips that worked for us:

• If you find the female connectors are not tight and easily 'fall-off' then cut the female connector from the patch cable, use the wire stripper to bare 1 cm of copper and twist the copper into each LED leg. Secure with insulating tape.

Ensure that the servo motor spindle is centred before attaching the head, follow the pin map to connect the LED's.

Tips that worked for us:

• We used a spare servo arm to place on the spindle, gently turning to each extreme to gauge and set the center point. It doesn't need to be precise as you can set of offset in the driver software to tune the center position.

Role the servo spindle backwards until it reaches its end-stop, then attach the arms using two 4mm screws. A magnetic screwdriver head will make it easier to guide the screws down the arm spindle.

Tips that worked for us:

• We generally fix the arms so they are raised vertically upwards in the 'up' extreme.

Ensure the power switch is in the 'off' position. Insert 4 AA batteries into RobEE, any AA batteries will do, however we recommend to go green and use rechargeable ones. Place RobEE on a flat surface, or low pile carpet, then flip the power switch to 'on'. If all has gone well, then RobEE should spring to life and run through the test script loaded earlier.

If nothing happens, or things don't work out as they should, don't worry, just flip the power switch to the 'off' position. You will now need to 'debug' RobEE to help to work properly. He's probably just got a few of his wires crossed, so carefully check through the connections, a VCC (+5 volts) or a signal wire may have connected to a GND (0 volts) point, or visa versa. If you can see nothing wrong, then remove all wires from the Arduino Breakout I/O board, and then add them back, one sensor at a time, until you have them all connected and working. Debugging, or problem solving, may take time, but it is a very useful skill to acquire.

Tips that worked for us:

• If your RobEE's wheels move slightly when they should be stationary, then you can adjust the servos by using a small screw driver to adjust the feedback resistor. The feedback resistor screw can be found at the bottom of the servo. Turn the screw until the servo stops turning or is stable at rest.

Now return to step 30 of the Creative Robotix Educational Platform instructable.