Custom PWMs/Servo Wire
One of the things our team does is custom cut and crimp all of our PWM wires. It is fairly easy if you have the time, patience, and resources. Team 1477 uses this process for our FRC robots, but it can also be used for radio controlled models like cars or airplanes.
Materials
1. 0.1" Female Crimp Pin Terminals
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?search_type=jamecoall&catalogId=10001&freeText=100766&langId=-1&productId=100766&storeId=10001&ddkey=http:StoreCatalogDrillDownView
2. 0.1" Male Crimp Pin Terminals
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_145358_-1
3. 0.1" 1x3 Connector Housing
http://www.hansenhobbies.com/products/connectors/servoconnectors/pt1in_1x3/
4. 22 gauge Servo Wire
http://www.hansenhobbies.com/products/connectors/wire/servo/sw_dx22_fu/
5. Wire Strippers (we use Channellock)
https://www.channellock.com/908-Wire-Strippers.aspx
6. Crimpers
http://www.hansenhobbies.com/products/connectors/tools/crimp_ec/
7. Needle nose pliers
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?search_type=jamecoall&catalogId=10001&freeText=100766&langId=-1&productId=100766&storeId=10001&ddkey=http:StoreCatalogDrillDownView
2. 0.1" Male Crimp Pin Terminals
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_145358_-1
3. 0.1" 1x3 Connector Housing
http://www.hansenhobbies.com/products/connectors/servoconnectors/pt1in_1x3/
4. 22 gauge Servo Wire
http://www.hansenhobbies.com/products/connectors/wire/servo/sw_dx22_fu/
5. Wire Strippers (we use Channellock)
https://www.channellock.com/908-Wire-Strippers.aspx
6. Crimpers
http://www.hansenhobbies.com/products/connectors/tools/crimp_ec/
7. Needle nose pliers
Crimp the Wires
1. Plan out the path the wire is going to take and measure the length needed.
2. Strip the wires a small amount (less than the top set of teeth on the crimp)
3. Place the wire in the crimp. The bottom set of teeth should only be in contact with the insulation and the top set only on the exposed wire. The wire should not extend past the top set of teeth.
4. Use pliers to slightly squeeze down on the bottom set of teeth to help everything stay in place while crimping.
5. Position the crimp in the smaller of the two options of the crimper. Make sure both sets of teeth are lined up correctly to be crimped.
6. Squeeze down all the way to ensure the crimp is fully secure. Remove the wire from the crimper and make sure both sets of teeth are properly crimped down, and re-crimp as needed.
7. Repeat on the two remaining wires.
8. Push the crimps into the housing until it clicks past the tab.
2. Strip the wires a small amount (less than the top set of teeth on the crimp)
3. Place the wire in the crimp. The bottom set of teeth should only be in contact with the insulation and the top set only on the exposed wire. The wire should not extend past the top set of teeth.
4. Use pliers to slightly squeeze down on the bottom set of teeth to help everything stay in place while crimping.
5. Position the crimp in the smaller of the two options of the crimper. Make sure both sets of teeth are lined up correctly to be crimped.
6. Squeeze down all the way to ensure the crimp is fully secure. Remove the wire from the crimper and make sure both sets of teeth are properly crimped down, and re-crimp as needed.
7. Repeat on the two remaining wires.
8. Push the crimps into the housing until it clicks past the tab.
Run the PWMs
Now that you have custom PWMs, there is no need for bundling! Label your speed controllers according to the sidecar and port they will be running to. Plug the PWMs into the sidecar, folding them over to create a loop. Gather them together and zip tie them to each other and the board, following your predetermined path. Once you reach the speed controllers, plug them into the appropriate ones. Make sure there is not any tension or stress on the wires as they are easily damaged.