DF Loom: a Simple and Flexible Rigid Heddle Loom

The DF Loom is an extremely simple yet versatile version of a rigid heddle loom that can be built DIY-style at minimal cost. It uses 3D-printed parts and aluminum extrusions, which are readily available from local hardware stores.

The loom offers flexibility in choosing the weft width and reed count, with the ability to add reeds later or reuse all 3D-printed parts for a wider or narrower loom. However, replacing most aluminum parts will be necessary if you decide to adjust the width.

Motivation

In winter 2023, my wife became interested in weaving, and a rigid heddle loom seemed like a great way for her to start. We explored what was available in our area and discovered that, while small looms were reasonably priced, the cost quickly increased for wider looms or those with multiple reeds. The same applied to working with different DPIs for various projects.

Additionally, the flexibility of commercial looms was limited. Choosing a smaller loom meant buying an entirely new one if you wanted to work on wider projects.

Since designing and building things is my hobby, I offered to build a loom from scratch. It turned out to be a simple and fun project. My wife completed several weaving projects on it and, a year later, asked me to make another. This presented a great opportunity to redesign some weaker parts and document the build process for others to use.

So here it is—enjoy!

The loom is made from 3D-printed parts, aluminum extrusions, knurled nuts, bolts, rubber bands, and laces. Printing all the parts takes a few days (around 55 hours on my Creality printer), but assembly can be done in 1–2 hours.

Choosing Your Loom Width

Decide on your desired weave width first. This design is highly flexible and supports any width up to 80–100 cm in 5 cm increments. Wider looms may require stronger aluminum profiles for the reeds.

I built 60 cm versions, which work perfectly. If you build other versions successfully, please leave a comment. Regardless of width, all 3D-printed parts are identical (except the stick shuttles). For a 600 mm wide loom, you’ll need approximately 0.8 kg of aluminum parts and 0.5 kg of PLA.

Aluminum Profiles

For the loom:

1. Warp beam/cloth beam: 2 pcs, circular profile, 25×1.5 mm, length = weave width + 60 mm (e.g., 660 mm for 600 mm weave width)
2. Tie-on rods: 2 pcs, circular profile, 8×1 mm, length = weave width + 60 mm (e.g., 660 mm for 600 mm weave width)
3. Side rails: 2 pcs, square profile, 15×15×640 mm (this defines your loom length; shorter or longer lengths are optional. For a 500 mm loom, you can cut a 1 m profile in half.)
4. Crossbars: 2 (optionally 3) pcs, square profile, 10×10×length = weave width + 144 mm (e.g., 10×10×744 mm for a 600 mm loom)
5. Internal connections: 4 pcs, square profile, 10×10×75 mm

For each reed:

1. Reed frame: 2 pcs, U profile, 10×8×1.3 mm, length = weave width + 25 mm

3D-Printed Parts

All parts are printed with PLA at 30% infill density with supports. Accurate dimensions and minimal “elephant footing” are essential for a smooth assembly. Movable holes are designed 0.3 mm wider, but you can adjust them in your slicer if needed.

You can download all files for 3D printing from here: https://www.printables.com/model/1106478-df-loom-a-simple-and-flexible-rigid-heddle-loom

For the Loom

1. Ends – 4 pcs
2. Four identical pieces form the corners of the loom. These should be printed with support to maintain the accuracy of all holes.
3. Middle Stands – 2 pcs (optional additional stands)
4. At least two middle stands are necessary. One pair can support two reeds. If more reeds are planned, print additional middle stands.
5. Wheels – 2 pcs Wheel and 2 pcs Wheel (mirror)
6. Assemble one Wheel and one Wheel (mirror) together with a beam and internal connections to create the warp beam/cloth beam.
7. Tube Connectors – 4 pcs
8. Connect the beams to the internal square profile.
9. Pawls – 2 pcs (optional: 4 pcs)
10. These restrict the movement of the beams using a ratchet mechanism on the wheels.
11. Mid connectors (optional)
12. Though not necessary for weaving, these can be great help while threading - especially when working with multiple reeds. During threading, the front part of loom is removed to get better access to reeds, so there is nothing to keep the distance of the loom, so it is easy for middle section widen and reeds falling down. You can work around by moving both the middle stands and warp beam assembly closer to you and placing cloth beam assembly behind just to keep the width.

For Every Reed

1. Frame Ends – 2 pcs per reed
2. Secure the ends of each reed frame.
3. Heddles
4. Available in three DPIs: 7.5, 10, and 15 for now
5. DPIs 10 and 15 are 5 cm wide.
6. DPI 7.5 requires a 10 cm width.

There are two versions of heddle thickness:

1. 2 mm: Light, fast to print, cheaper, and ideal for lifting threads.
2. 4 mm: Recommended for reeds used to beat the weft, offering greater stability.
3. DF loom version 1.0 had only 2 mm thick heddles, but that felt too flexible for beating the weft, so thicker 4 mm version was made. I actually recommend to make reeds with both thicknesses – for reed used for beating weft with 4 mm and for all others with 2 mm. 2 mm version are much faster to print, lighter and cheaper and perfectly fine for rising and lowering threads. But choice is yours.

Other Parts

1. Knurled Nuts
2. M5x6x7 – minimum of 8 pcs.
3. Screws
4. M5x20: At least 6 pcs.
5. M5x25: At least 2 pcs (or more if additional middle stands are used).
6. I originally did covers for hex head nuts, so they can by tighten and loosen by hand, but as this is so seldom done, it is not necessary and even bulky – I now prefer nuts with internal hex sockets – M5 has Ikea size hex key (Allan key, Inbus), and I have too many of those, so I can keep one next the loom.
7. Lace
8. Approx. 1 m or any suitable tying string.
9. Washers
10. 6 pcs for securing lace knots inside the beams. Alternatively, large knots can suffice.

Refer to the table for the required length of aluminum parts. Cut to length, and file edges smooth. For beams, ensure the inner diameter is clean.

Print the necessary number of middle stands based on the number of reeds and heddle parts needed for the chosen width.

Remove support material, check the fit with aluminum parts, and file as needed for a smooth assembly.

1. Insert knurled nuts and make them flush (google for instructions if not familiar how to do it). I use standard soldering iron with no adapters, just heat them up, insert 80%, flip over and press against flat surface until flush.
2. For the Ends, insert only two nuts (one for the crossbar, one for the side rail). Additional nuts can be added for flexibility.
3. Clean threads and build up plastic with an M5 thread cutter if needed.

1. Start by pressing the aluminum profiles into Frame end – design is tight fit so does not require glue, just inserting and maybe a slight tap with light hammer.
2. Insert heddle parts one by one, again it is tight fit, might need slight tap with hammer. Always check the spacing – the gap between heddle part and heddles themselves must be identical. If gap is too wide, remove it, file the sides with sandpaper and insert again. Do not proceed with next heddle section unless the previous is perfectly placed. Good way to check is to look from front side – as you will not be distracted by back side. All gaps must seem identical. To remove, use flat screwdriver and wedge it out from U profile, if you scratch the inside of aluminum it does not matter.
3. Once all heddle parts are inserted, press in the other frame end and you are set.

1. Glue in internal connection into the wheels
2. Insert the wheel assembly into the end parts – note that Wheel and Wheel (mirror) must be opposite each other
3. Mark the openings in the beams to connect tie-on rods with laces. Important!!! It is very important that these are in line, otherwise the winding of cloths will not be symmetrical. The way to achieve this easily it to mark the location on one of the square side bars (I used unfinished reed in the picture) – press it against the beam, hold tight in place and mark the openings. Make hole every 200-300 mm – for 600 mm loom, I used 3 holes. Make holes not closer than 40 mm for the edges, as it will interfere with tube connectors. I used 3 mm holes, but wider are easier to insert laces in.
4. Insert laces into holes – this is actually the most difficult part of whole assembly - you can fix it by either large knot, but I prefer fixing it to washers. Tie laces onto tie-on rods, make sure that distance between rod and beam is equal everywhere. One way to ensure this, is to tie the rod securely to the cross bar to keep the distance, then tie laces over the rod.
5. Now insert tube connectors on internal connections and slide into beam. Drill a hole through beam, tube connector all the way into internal connector and secure it with screw
6. Insert a cross bar and fix it with M5x20 screws from the side where bottom of pawl will be placed, as it can be used to secure rubber band for the pawl.
7. Insert the pawls – you can only use one per beam, pick side with is more convenient for you. Or use both sides

1. Now the front and back are ready, this is quite straightforward
2. Insert side rails inside middle stand(s) and secure with nut
3. Mount front and back – keep directions so the winding / unwinding is from top part of beams.

1. Shuttle picks – 3D printed shuttle picks are incredibly light, compared to any other wooden version. As the length is over common size 3D printers, they have to be printed in multiple parts. Longer parts rotate 45° for printing, as they fit more easily on print bad diagonally
2. Threading hook – can be printed very thin. Print more of them as they can break easily

So now you are ready to go, there are plenty of videos out there on how to thread the loom and how to weave, so there is no point covering it here. I might add some other accessories later on, as I make them. Happy weaving.