Electric Bike (Assisted - Not Full Electric) Step One
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Electric Bike (Assisted - Not Full Electric) Step One
How to turn an average bike into an electric assisted one. Step one.
Get a Second Back Wheel - Geared Axle.
To start this project you need to get a second back wheel. This backwheel that has a gear on it will become your new front wheel.
The image here of a geared back wheel does not have a freewheel. The freewheel is the part with five or six gears on it that can only apply force in one direction.
The image here of a geared back wheel does not have a freewheel. The freewheel is the part with five or six gears on it that can only apply force in one direction.
Problem Solving
If you happen to try to put the back wheel into the front wheel spot , you will find it doesn't fit.
The back wheel is typically around six inches, the front is five.
To solve this problem, you need a bolt or an axle from the rear wheel.
And you need some luck and the correct front axle fork.
The correct axle fork is one that can be stretched, not all can be stretched outwards to accommodate a wider axle..
1)Bolt one side of the axle to the side of the front fork. Two lock nuts.
2)On the other side "loosen" a third nut outwards towards the other side. This will stretch the metal frame of the fork.
I don't have a picture of these steps , I will add them later when I have time.
DANGER When you are putting pressure on the fork, it will try to push out of the slot. It may pop out suddenly so watch your fingers and eyes.
The turning will take so time be patient, and you might have to do it a few times as the third bolt you are turning outwards tends to slip out.
When to stop
With a measuring tape, check on the distance between the front fork from time to time.
Its static distance size can be stretched a bit (about a half inch) so when measuring it does NOT have to be the exact size wide of the rear axle.
The back wheel is typically around six inches, the front is five.
To solve this problem, you need a bolt or an axle from the rear wheel.
And you need some luck and the correct front axle fork.
The correct axle fork is one that can be stretched, not all can be stretched outwards to accommodate a wider axle..
1)Bolt one side of the axle to the side of the front fork. Two lock nuts.
2)On the other side "loosen" a third nut outwards towards the other side. This will stretch the metal frame of the fork.
I don't have a picture of these steps , I will add them later when I have time.
DANGER When you are putting pressure on the fork, it will try to push out of the slot. It may pop out suddenly so watch your fingers and eyes.
The turning will take so time be patient, and you might have to do it a few times as the third bolt you are turning outwards tends to slip out.
When to stop
With a measuring tape, check on the distance between the front fork from time to time.
Its static distance size can be stretched a bit (about a half inch) so when measuring it does NOT have to be the exact size wide of the rear axle.
Bolt the Wheel in Place
Bolt the wheel in place.
Other
This works in the sense the wheel spins, but the ratio is totally wrong.
The motor is a high RPM one and has low torque.
And it is very heavy so makes it too dangerous to steer, for the general public to use.
The motor is a high RPM one and has low torque.
And it is very heavy so makes it too dangerous to steer, for the general public to use.
Other 2
Steel frame too heavy , but witha gear reduction ratio for the high RPM motor.
Works well but is too heavy.
Works well but is too heavy.
Other 3
Last build.
I mounted the batteries in the frame. There is a voltmeter on the handelbars. The steel frame is held by steel bars (black) now. And a rear derailer spring-slack absorber was added.
I mounted the batteries in the frame. There is a voltmeter on the handelbars. The steel frame is held by steel bars (black) now. And a rear derailer spring-slack absorber was added.