Floating Canvas Frames With Fabric Mats

So this Instructable isn't the most amazing, mind-blowing thing on the planet (LOL) but seeing as I couldn't find how to do this anywhere on the internet, I decided it was important enough to share for anyone else who wants to have gorgeous, wooden floating canvas frames (with no glass) and also wants to have matting around them for added umph and impact. I think these turned out absolutely AMAZING and I can't wait to share the how-to with you!

Canvas artworks (I used 16" x 20" canvases for this project)

1x2x8s (I bought 6 for this project, but it was overkill)

24" x 36" white mat boards (I bought 3)

Linen or Muslin fabric (I bought 2 yards of Muslin fabric, but it was major overkill... 1-1.5 yards would've been just fine)

1" to 1-1/4" wood screws (16 per frame with supports)

1" to 1-1/2" drywall screws (4 to mount each canvas and frame combo, you can use drywall anchors in addition, but mine were light enough to only use screws directly in the drywall)

Fabric Mod Podge & Paint brush to apply it

Stain for the wooden frames (I used Minwax Golden Oak & Minwax Espresso together)

Applicator tool of choice for stain (I used a rag) & Gloves

Speed Square

Box cutter, craft knife, or equivalent (I only had a sharp knife on hand lol)

Black paint for the support pieces (I used Apple Barrel Matte Black acrylic paint from Walmart, but any will do)

Tape Measure

Pen/Pencil

Painter's Tape

Hot Glue Gun with Hot Glue Sticks

Drill with proper bits

Jigsaw, Circular Saw, or Miter Saw (I used a jigsaw)

Level

Wood Glue

Sharp scissors (or fabric specific scissors)

150 grit sandpaper

Corner clamps if you have them (OR Stapler for Wood and Staples if you don't have clamps)

Self-healing cutting mat (or similar)

OPTIONAL: Paint and brushes for fixing any mistakes (see 'ible)

Take one of the 1x2x8s and cut a 45 degree angle on one end. To do this with a speed square, simply align the 45 degree angle of the square with the corner of the end and mark the diagonal line. Then cut along this line.

*NOTE: For a wider frame as I did here, cut the 45 degree angle on the full width of the frame (the wider side). For a thinner frame, cut the 45 degree angle into the lesser wide side of the wood by turning it on its side.

Now, measure from the inside of the cut (the shorter side of the cut end -- you'll see one part of the cut leaves a longer end that goes into a point, and the other side is shorter) down to where you want the frame to end (total length you want the frame to be -- my total length for my frames was 25" across x 28-3/4" high), then use your speed square angled from this point OUTWARD to what will become another corner of the frame, and cut.

*IMPORTANT: Cut the 45 degree angles on either end of the wood in opposite directions from each other. If you get confused, just think of which way the frame fits together, and it should help you envision which way to make the cuts. But basically on each piece of wood, you'll have a short side on the inside, and a long side on the opposite side of the wood (as seen in the example - Picture 2).

Once you have a piece cut to the proper length for the shorter side, and another for the longer side of the frame, you can use these cut pieces to cut the rest of the frame pieces for all the frames.

Once you have all the frame pieces cut, sand the cut edges with 150 grit sandpaper, and then simply add wood glue to the 45 degree cut corners and press the frames together. I used staples to hold the corners together while the glue dried (and I left the frames on a flat surface) because I didn't have clamps. But if you have corner clamps, definitely use those for a better seal!

On a self-healing cutting mat (or something you don't care to mess up), vertically lay out your 24" x 36" white mat board on top. If it's too small of a cutting mat for the whole board, simply turn the mat to use where you're cutting for each different side you're on.

First, measure and mark the bottom (short side) and the right side (long side) of the mat for the frames. With the boards already having straight edges, that's two of your sides already done for you, so you only have to cut two more sides.

*NOTE: Add the desired width of the mat to both sides in each direction (so adding it twice for each length). So for a 16" x 20" canvas with a 3" wide mat, I would make my total lengths for the two sides I'm cutting 22" x 26".

Use a straight edge of any kind (I used an extra piece of wood) and cut along the marked lines with a box cutter, craft knife, or other sharp tipped cutting device.

Now you can cut out the 4 inside lines to finish them. Measure each corner from both directions the width of your desired mats. Mine were 3" mats, so I measured and marked 3" from the left and 3" from the top in my top left corner, and proceeded to do the same from each side, then connected all the lines until a smaller rectangle was drawn on the mat board. Then I used the same method of cutting to cut out the inner rectangle.

*NOTE: I marked lines on the straight edge for cutting the inner lines on the mat board because with the straight edge down, it was hard to see the lines I drew, and this helped me see where to start and stop cutting each line so I didn't cut into the border itself.

Dry fit a frame, the finished cut mat board, and the canvas to make sure you like the positioning, size, and final look.

I wanted a 1/8"-1/4" gap around the mat for the floating frame look.

When satisfied, use the first mat as a guide to mark the next mat boards and then cut the rest of the boards out.

*NOTE: Do NOT use the first finished mat as a straight edge for cutting the next boards or you could damage it and cut into it on accident.

To make supports for each frame to go in the inside corners and along the inside edges to give the mats something to adhere to instead of just air (LOL), and it adds additional much-needed support for the corners of the picture frames themselves, cut 4 corner pieces, 2 longer pieces for the longer sides, and 2 shorter pieces for the shorter sides.

For the 4 corner pieces, I simply set a scrap 1x2 piece along a corner at the desired angle, and marked where the lines of the frame are on the scrap 1 x 2. Then cut along the lines with a jigsaw.

Once you dry fit that it works in the corner, cut out 3 more for this frame, and 4 more for every other frame you're making. Then sand the rough parts off and set them aside.

Next, cut 2 long pieces (straight ends) and 2 short pieces (straight ends). I cut two 7" long and two 9" long pieces for each frame, but the length really doesn't matter too terribly much as it just something to adhere the mats onto.

Then, line the corner pieces and the straight pieces in their positions on the frame (with the frame facing forward the way it will on the wall, NOT with the stapled side up), and make sure THOSE SIDES of the corner and straight pieces stay facing UPRIGHT when you set them aside to paint them. That way you have the correct direction up when assembling.

*NOTE: Yes, it matters. The direction of the angled corner pieces will be in opposite directions so it's important to know which side is up for painting them.

Now, paint all the tops and sides of the pieces (that are facing upwards) black.

WHY BLACK? Because when hung, it makes the supports less noticeable with the gaps between the mats and the frames (for the floating canvas frame look). It makes them look more like shadows.

Set aside all pieces to dry.

*PRO TIP: Before we even begin adding on the frame supports, I would HIGHLY recommend this product shown in the first picture. It's a Quick Release Bit Coupler aka a Quick Change Impact Bit Holder. It makes changing between a drill bit and a screwdriver bit fast and effortless! You simply lock it into place in your drill, then put the bits in as needed and pull up to release them and change to the next one. The attached mp4 will show you how to use one if you never have. A definite time saver, that's for sure!

I found that it was the best result to stand the frames upright to attach the supports. If you don't have a dedicated partner to help hold the frames up, or clamps that could do so (and leaning it up against a wall won't give you enough space for your drill chuck to spin in most cases), then enlist the help of your "extra hands" (aka feet, lol) to get 'er done!

TO ATTACH THE CORNER SUPPORTS: You can get away with a 1" screw here because it's going through the smaller/thinner ends of the wood, but you can also go slightly bigger if needed.

To drill in the corner supports, set the support in the place, then using a drill bit, drill down into the wood at an angle that's perfectly perpendicular to the surface of the wood, then while the bit is rotating, after it's down under the wood surface, straighten the drill and drill bit out so it drills straight down into the wood. Use this same hole-drilling method for each direction of the corner supports. Then screw in your screws.

MAKE SURE your final positioning has the surface of the support sitting flush with the front of the frames, NOT beyond flush at all or your mat won't sit flat when finished.

*NOTE: You CAN add wood glue to each piece before screwing them in if necessary, but it's kinda overkill.

TO ATTACH THE STRAIGHT SUPPORTS: Hold the supports in the centers of the frames, then drill them straight in.

*NOTE: Rotate the frame as you go for each new corner or straight support to make it easier.

Repeat for all frames.

LOOK at the amazing difference it makes from how small the canvas started out as, to how big it'll be with the finished frame! Awesome!

*NOTE: If you want a super smooth frame, be sure to SAND the frames. I wanted rougher, rustic looking frames, so I didn't sand them (only the cut edges so they didn't have sharp wood pieces sticking out.

I really liked the warm rustic wood look of the Minwax Golden Oak mixed with Espresso. It gave it a darker stain look, but with the richness and warmth of a beautiful, timeless wood.

First, I tested stain colors on the back of one frame.

Then, when I found the match I wanted, wearing a glove, I first applied the Golden Oak to one side. Then, WHILE IT WAS STILL WET, I applied the Espresso over the top.

Let this sit for 2-5 minutes (I did 2 minutes). Then wipe off the excess.

Repeat for all the sides.

Repeat the process for all the frames.

Then let them dry for at least 1-2 hours, if not overnight.

*NOTE: It's important to do this in a well-ventilated area as the stain chemical smell can be quite strong.

So, in the first picture, you can see that when I put the bright white mat board as-is with the frame against the wall, the mat board not only looked like a blindingly awkward color that looked terrible, but it also distracted from the artwork inside. A mat should NEVER take the focus off the artwork, rather it should draw the eyes IN to see the artwork more! So something had to be done!

Enter in: FABRIC! Specifically linen or muslin (I got Muslin fabric for cheap at Walmart, and I don't mind it thinner for this specific use). But it adds the perfect color, and such a gorgeous texture to further enhance the beauty of the framed artwork!

First, lay out the fabric over the entire mat board frame and cut it out so there's at least 1/2" to 1" excess on all sides.

*NOTE: You do NOT have to iron out the fabric for this step, as the glue will pull the fabric and get out all the wrinkles when we adhere it to the frames.

Next, gently lift up one side of the fabric (you can even use something as weight on the opposite side to help the fabric not shift around while you adhere it), and apply Fabric Mod Podge to the entire side as fast as you can with a paintbrush. Movement of the Mod Podge doesn't matter (like you don't have to go only in one direction, actually I think it might be better not to apply it all in one direction but spreading it out over each edge), it's more important to have a single layer and not let the Mod Podge glop up anywhere.

Then press the fabric back down on to the Mod Podged side, and squeegee it with your hands from the center of the mat board frame out to the edges, smoothing it all down. Use your thumbnail to smooth out creases or bubbles. If you find you've missed somewhere for Mod Podge, simply lift up that section, add Mod Podge, and press it back down til smooth. Pull and stretch the fabric if you have any particularly deep wrinkles in it.

Once the entire mat board frame has the fabric adhered to it, use your sharp point cutting device to cut the corners of the excess inner fabric (NOT the corners of the actual mat board frame!) on an angle as shown, then connect the corner cuts with lines as shown. The lines do NOT need to be perfect or exact.

Flip the board over, and Mod Podge the excess pieces to the back of the board. This gives it the perfect folded-over professional look!

When that's done, and while the board is still flipped over, trim the edges of the fabric to flush with the edges of the board with your sharp point cutting device.

Repeat for all mat boards.

**THE BANE OF MY EXISTENCE: As you see in the one photo, my paintbrush still (I have NO IDEA HOW!) had some black paint in the bristles I guess (even after a thorough cleaning) and it came out in the Mod Podge of the right side. But I will show you how I fixed this in a future step!**

When finished, apply some Mod Podge to all edges of all the boards so you seal down all the fly-aways and prevent the muslin/linen fabric from fraying. Allow all mats to dry (30 minutes tops).

Using a hot glue gun and glue sticks, simply add hot glue to one or two supports at a time and press the mat down onto the frames. Work in smaller sections so 1) the glue doesn't dry before adhesion, and 2) you can keep adjusting to make sure the mat sits perfectly in the frame how you want it.

*NOTE: I tried to go for about a 1/8-1/4" gap around all the edges between the mat and the frame. I just eyeballed it, but you could get more technical and use spacers.

So back to THE BANE OF MY EXISTENCE (lol)...

See it!? The right side having black paint smudges all across it!? UGH!

I found after testing some spots on excess fabric and mat board, that the mix of White and Antique Parchment matte acrylic paint colors from the brand Apple Barrel (Walmart) nearly perfectly resembled the muslin fabric I had. So I mixed the two of them together, then applied some of the mix on the tip of my paintbrush, and brushed some of it off on an excess board, then lightly applied it in multiple different directions over each smudged area. Then I wiped it off even more (for a dried brush) and worked the paint into the fabric from every direction until it blended in.

*NOTE: I repeat, VERY LIGHT PAINT. :)

Look at the finished result! You can sort of tell if you're looking for it, but I am well pleased with the result!

On your wall you will have to measure to account for the width of each finished frame, and the spacing between frames. Normal spacing between frames runs about 2-5" apart, maybe 6" if you really need to divvy up the space. BUT, mine are spaced about 12" apart because I may add arched wall trim around each later (undecided right now). But, it turned out looking great even with the excess spacing, so we shall see.

First, find the center of each and mark with painter's tape (I centered mine under the picture lights), then measure out from center each way HALF of the total width of the finished frame and mark with painter's tape. And layout how high up you want them on the wall (if not behind a sofa, they should be EYE LEVEL (the center of the artwork should hang about 57-60" up from the floor). Behind a sofa (like mine are) you want them to be about 8-10" from the top of the back of the sofa to the bottom of each frame. And mark the top and bottom of the finished frame locations with painter's tape.

So, to make these frames SUPER convenient once they're hung, I made them double-mounted which means I mounted the canvases first to the wall (UNATTACHED from the frames) and then I mounted the frames to the wall over top of the canvases. This makes it so all you have to do once you get your screws in is simply take the matted frames off the wall, change out the artwork with any other 16x20 canvases you want, then put the frames back on their screws and it's perfect! HOW EASY IS THAT!?

So, to hang the canvases, use the center marks you made earlier, and measure the INSIDE of the BACK of the canvases (my canvases are vertically hung, so I measured the inside shorter width, but if yours are to be hung horizontally, obviously measure the inside longer width). My inside measurement was 13.5", so I hung screws at 5" each way from center (to have them hung slightly in each direction from the edges.

Use a level to ensure the screws are perfectly parallel. You can additionally measure down from the ceiling to fully ensure they are perfectly level.

Add your canvas to the screws and double check it's level before moving on to the next one.

*NOTE: I used 1"-1.5" construction or drywall screws for this.

Using longer screws, more like 1.5-2" screws this time, I measured the width from the center of one corner open triangle (between the frame and the corner support, see second pic for specific location -- where the pencil is pointing at) and then followed the same basic principles as before to add level screws to the wall. The distance between my corners was 21-1/4" center to center, so I put my screws 10-5/8" in each direction from center.

Put the frame on the wall and adjust as needed til it's just right over the canvas. Repeat the process for all frames.

NOW SIT BACK AND ENJOY THE ABSOLUTE BEAUTY THAT THESE BRING TO A ROOM!!!

Can you believe that before and after!? I LOVE IT!!!