Ford Bronco Sport Rear Shelf

I didn’t realize that my new Ford Bronco Sport did not come stock with the rear shelf (which most importantly conceals items stored in the rear hatch area) and apparently you cannot simply add it as an option post-production since the rear interior side panels required for the factory shelf are different.

So I decided to build myself a removable shelf. It provides plenty of storage space beneath, folds flat if the larger hatch space is needed and is also lightweight and easy to remove. Inexpensive materials (PVC, ½” plywood, vinyl) and does not require expensive tools.

Complete detailed materials, parts, tools list included. Please read all instructions thoroughly before you embark. I hope you find this helpful. Prices for parts are from Home Depot unless noted otherwise ($70 plus tax as listed).

Materials and Tools

Parts list:

A - (1) ½” x 10’ PVC pipe - $4.51

B - (1) ¾” x 10’ PVC pipe - $5.56

C - (2) ¾” PVC Tee ($0.82 ea) - $1.64

D - (4) ¾” PVC 90 elbow ($0.81 ea) - $3.24

E - (8) ½” PVC Tee ($0.61 ea) - $4.88

F - (6) ½” PVC cap ($0.61 ea) - $2.44

G - (4) ¾” x ½” PVC bushing ($0.81 ea) - $3.24

H - (2) ¾” X ½” PVC male adapter MPTXS ($1.11 ea) - $2.22

J – (2) ¾” PVC Tee w/ ½” screw thread ($1.36 ea) - $2.72

K – (1) 2’x4’ ½” BCX plywood - $16.42

L – (1) yard black marine vinyl (Joann Fabric) - $12.71

M– (2) 4-pack 7/8” rubber bumpers ($2.95 ea) - $5.90

N – (1) pack ½” x 1” clear bumpers - $3.87

Other Materials/Tools:

PVC pipe primer and cement

PVC pipe ratchet cutter

Saw(s) for cutting plywood – circular, jigsaw

Scissors, mat knife for cutting vinyl

Staple gun, 3/8” staples

Tape measure, ruler

Sharpie

Drill/screwdriver – for securing rubber bumpers as feet

Optional – Spray adhesive for marine vinyl to plywood

PVC pipe sizes and quantities:

¾” PVC pipe

AA - (1) 12 ¾” long

BB - (4) 18 ¾” long

CC - (2) 2 ¼” long

½” PVC pipe

DD - (4) 4 ½” long

EE - (4) 6 ½” long

FF - (4) 2 ¾” long

GG - (4) 8 ¼” long

HH - (2) 9” long

Refer to the photo with part numbers.

Refer to Parts List and PVC Pipe Sizes for part designations

Single letter part numbers indicate PVC fittings – i.e. part C = ¾” PVC Tee

Double letter part numbers indicate PVC pipe sections – i.e. part CC = 2 ¼” long ¾” PVC pipe section

Cut PVC pipe to lengths indicated.

Dry fit pipe and fitting parts into the following:

·       Two side rail assemblies

·       Two end leg assemblies

·       One middle leg assembly

Note that the three leg assemblies will pivot at the slip joints (unglued).

Adjust dry-fit joints to ensure flat layout and mark alignments of dry-fit joints to provide references when gluing up joints.

All joints get glued with PVC cement EXCEPT for the following slip joints:

·       Part G bushing to part D elbow (4 locations - end leg assemblies to side rail assemblies)

·       Part CC pipe to part C tee (2 locations – middle leg assembly to side rail assemblies)

Note: slip joints may be difficult to rotate. I found the part G to part D fittings rotated OK. Part CC pipe to part C fitting was difficult and I had to scrape the PVC pipe to reduce the diameter enough for a smooth rotation.

Important note about gluing with PVC cement. Prime both surfaces (inside joint and end of pipe). Apply cement to both surfaces as well. Press components together and twist (when possible) and then – HOLD IN PLACE for a few seconds until glue starts to set or the glue can push the joint apart.

Glue up the separate assemblies, and then push together the slip joints.

Paint with PVC spray paint. Apply (1) of the clear bumpers (part N) to each of the part D elbows and apply (2) to each side of center on the part C tee, to support the plywood shelves

The rubber bumpers (part M) get screwed to the bottom of part F (½” caps) as non-slip feet. You will note that these feet on the two end leg assemblies are sized so that the rubber feet fall into the two notches at either side of the rear floor cover.

The plywood could not fit snuggly as a single large piece, so cut plywood into (2) 23 ½” x 24” halves.

Set plywood on the PVC frame inside rear of car and use cardboard/paper to test cut profile to be cut from corner of plywood (each side) around the rear corner. My cutout was about 1 5/8” x 2” with a 1” radius inside corner. I also eased the other (front) corner of the plywood. The inside edges remained square cut for matching up the two shelf panels at the midpoint.

Cut vinyl to allow a few inches to wrap around the plywood and staple to back side (bottom of shelf).

Optional – use spray adhesive on plywood and vinyl. Be careful as spraying both materials (recommended by adhesive mfr.) makes adjustments impossible, so get it right the first time or skip the glue altogether.

The PVC frame folds flat and the two shelf panels can lay flat when the rear cargo area is required.

Everything fits snugly, but can be raised/assembled or collapsed or removed in about 1 minute.