G502X Lightweight Mod Guide

The Logitech G502X is a great gaming mouse, but its weight can be a drawback for those who prefer a lighter device. This guide will walk you through the process of reducing the weight of your G502X while maintaining its functionality and comfort. We’ll cover everything from disassembly to weight reduction techniques and reassembly, ensuring you get the best balance between durability and performance. Follow along to create your own lightweight G502X!

Materials Needed:

1. Logitech G502X mouse
2. Lightweight replacement parts (optional)
3. Replacement mouse feet
4. Grip material (optional but recommended)
5. ABS/PETG/PLA/LW-PLA

Tools Required:

1. Precision screwdriver set
2. Plastic pry tool/spudger or razor(optional)
3. 3D printer

G502X Mouse Disassembly Guide

Step-by-Step Instructions:

1. Remove Mouse Feet:
2. Use a flathead screwdriver, spudger, or razor to lift the mouse feet on the bottom.
3. The center foot can remain in place.
4. Remove Screws Under Feet:
5. Unscrew all screws located beneath the removed mouse feet.
6. Remove Front Screw:
7. Locate and unscrew the single screw at the front of the mouse.
8. Open the Enclosure:
9. Carefully pry open the enclosure from the thumb rest side.
10. Unclip Internal Cables:
11. Disconnect the ribbon cable, battery cable, and wireless charging cable from the main PCB.
12. Remove PCB Screws:
13. Unscrew all screws securing the main PCB.
14. Remove Power Button:
15. Lift out the power button and set it aside.
16. Leverage Battery Out:
17. Use a flathead screwdriver to gently leverage the battery out of the exoskeleton.
18. Remove Additional Screws (First Set):
19. Unscrew the highlighted screws as shown in the reference images.
20. Remove Additional Screws (Second Set):
21. Unscrew the highlighted screws as shown in the reference images.
22. Lift Off Supports (First Set):
23. Gently lift off structural supports.
24. Lift Off Supports (Second Set):
25. Gently lift off the structural supports.
26. Detach Left & Right Click Buttons:
27. The left and right click buttons should now be loose enough to pull off.
28. Remove G7 Button:
29. Carefully detach the G7 button from the assembly.
30. Flip the Mouse Over:
31. Flip the mouse over to access the screws on the other side.
32. Unscrew Exoskeleton:
33. Unscrew all screws holding the exoskeleton in place.
34. Remove Exoskeleton:
35. Once the exoskeleton is unscrewed, carefully remove it.
36. Remove G8 Button:
37. Unscrew the highlighted screw and remove the G8 button from the assembly.
38. Remove Side Button Assembly:
39. Unscrew the highlighted screws and carefully remove the side button assembly.
40. Final Disassembly Overview:
41. The remaining images show the final state of the disassembled mouse, illustrating how the parts should look when properly disassembled. (Note: the small ribbon cable that is disconnected in some images is not required.)

Before you can get started with the ModLite G502X build process, head over to my Maker World (MakerWorld Page) page to download the necessary 3D model files.

Once printed, carefully remove any supports to avoid damaging alignment posts or thin structural areas. After the parts are cleaned up, you can jump into the Assembly section of this guide to finish the mod and bring your new mouse shell to life!

Assembly Guide: Step-by-Step Instructions

Before You Begin:

After carefully removing all supports from the upper and lower enclosures, there are two key areas where support residue often remains and must be cleaned up for proper assembly.

1. In the scroll wheel cutout, the front edge has some build-up and needs to be cut or sanded smooth for proper scroll wheel clearance.

2. Between the print-in-place G4 and G5 buttons, there is some support that needs to be carefully cut or cleared until they move freely and there is a clearly separated gap between them.

3. Now that that is addressed, we can move on to the assembly process. Start by laying out all the parts you’ll need, as you see here.

4. If you are applying grip tape to the left and right click buttons, I suggest doing this now before attaching them to the exoskeleton.

5. After the tape is applied, cut any excess to be completely flush with the left and right clickers, or it will rub against the upper enclosure.

6. Take your bottom enclosure and, with your finger bracing the back (top of the bottom enclosure), gently pre-thread your screws through the five total screw areas. Then remove the screws.

7. Grab your mouse skates.

8. Apply nine skate dots as you see here.

9. Remove the highlighted screw in this image (it does not affect function).

10. Grab the power switch slider.

11. Place it accordingly in the slot, as seen in this image.

12. After getting the main PCB aligned, it should perfectly line up with the highlighted holes. If you are having trouble getting it to line up, either shift the power switch to align with the slider or adjust the slider for proper switch orientation. Insert four of the shorter screws to secure the PCB.

14. Flip over and ensure the power button can be switched on and off and slides freely. Keep it in the off position from this point on until the assembly is complete.

15. Plug in the battery until it is firmly and fully inserted into the connector.

16. Stick the battery to the lower PCB for now to keep it out of the way.

17. While holding the G8 button over the raised support on the standoff, gently screw it in using a shorter screw. Only tighten until just snug.

18. Take your aiming button and brackets and set them into place through the cutout on the side of the upper enclosure. After setting it on the standoff, use a shorter screw to fasten it snugly while the enclosure is on its side.

20. Set your upper enclosure on its back and insert the upper enclosure (top shell) as you see in this image. When screwing in the exoskeleton, the two screws highlighted toward the front of the mouse are the shorter type. These need to be snug, but overtightening can cause a tolerance issue where the scroll lock can’t be consistently clicked repeatedly. This won't hinder normal use if slightly overtightened. Take your longer (skinnier) screws and screw them in where it is highlighted in the image toward the back of the mouse.

23. Lay the upper enclosure flat, and at a fairly sharp angle insert the G7 clicker into the exoskeleton as highlighted.

24. Flip the upper enclosure on its back and insert a shorter screw into the G7 bracket once it is properly aligned on the standoff.

25. If done correctly, the alignment should look like this.

26. Take your left click and insert it at a very slight angle onto the standoffs.

27. Flip the enclosure on its back and, using two short screws, screw them past the G7 standoff into the area where the screwdriver is and the highlighted area.

28. Take your right click and insert it at a very slight angle onto the standoffs.

29. Flip the enclosure on its back again and, using two shorter screws, screw into the highlighted and shown area once the bracket is properly seated on the standoffs.

30. Take your lower enclosure and flip up the bracket to insert the wide ribbon cable.

31. If you prefer not to mount the battery to the lower enclosure, you can instead reposition it into the battery cavity located in the top shell.

32. While holding the top and bottom enclosures together and aligned, use the two remaining shorter screws to secure them by fastening through the highlighted areas on the bottom of the lower enclosure.

33. Repeat the previous step for the remaining highlighted screw points using some of the remaining shorter screws.

34. Congratulations—assembly complete!