Glow Strip Entry Table - 2x4
by Hough_Creations in Workshop > Woodworking
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Glow Strip Entry Table - 2x4
This table is made out of 2x4's, 2x3's, 1x8 pine boards and a couple pieces of 2x6. Very simple construction the main frame is made with 2 1/2 inch screws, pocket joints made with a wood bit, no jig, just eye balled. Resin is simple one to one ratio with glow powder added, all purchased on eBay.
Finished size 55x35x17.5, I won't be including all the measurements, didn't keep track of them during the build, but this instruct able will walk you through the building process.
Finished size 55x35x17.5, I won't be including all the measurements, didn't keep track of them during the build, but this instruct able will walk you through the building process.
Materials and Tools
Materials
6 - 2x4 8 ft.
2 - 2x3 8 ft.
30 ft 1x8 pine boards #2
1 - 1x1.5 8 ft strip
2 - 2x6 15 inch pieces
Screws 2.5 and 1 5/8.
3/8 mushroom plugs
Minwax special walnut stain
Minwax weathered oak stain
Minwax rub on polyurethane
Resin - clear
Glow powder - I chose turquoise
White oil based paint
3 sets of hinges
3 magnetic door latches
3 door handles
Tools
Drill
Long Phillips bit
3/8 wood bit
Miter saw
Spray bottle - with water
Orbital sander 120 and 320 grit
Jig saw
2 clamps
Miter
Router - I used a beveled bit and 1/2 inch carving bit
Duct tape
6 - 2x4 8 ft.
2 - 2x3 8 ft.
30 ft 1x8 pine boards #2
1 - 1x1.5 8 ft strip
2 - 2x6 15 inch pieces
Screws 2.5 and 1 5/8.
3/8 mushroom plugs
Minwax special walnut stain
Minwax weathered oak stain
Minwax rub on polyurethane
Resin - clear
Glow powder - I chose turquoise
White oil based paint
3 sets of hinges
3 magnetic door latches
3 door handles
Tools
Drill
Long Phillips bit
3/8 wood bit
Miter saw
Spray bottle - with water
Orbital sander 120 and 320 grit
Jig saw
2 clamps
Miter
Router - I used a beveled bit and 1/2 inch carving bit
Duct tape
Frame
I start with the face frame. Top rail 2x4 bottom rail 2x3, middle stiles 2x3 and the legs are 2x4. I measure out the drawer widths, mark on the rails and drill 3/4 through the boards. I attach the middle stiles to the rails using the clamps, connect with 2.5 screws. Then clamp the legs to the rails, using the middle stiles as a clamping point. Attach with pocket screws on the rails, I just make the pocket holes with the wood bit, slowly turning the bit sideways.
Next come the sides. 2x3 for the front stile, 2x4 for the back, 2x4 for the rails. Measure out the width the placement of rails, bottom rail same height as the 2x3 rail on the face frame. Drill half way through the 2x3 and 2x4 stiles, clamp rails in place, secure with the 2.5 screws. I measured out the base boards in my house and made a cut out in rear of the 2x4 stile. This allows the table to sit flush against the wall.
Now we attach the sides to the face. Drill two holes half way through the 2x3 on the side and a hole on each upper corner of the face frame, half way again. I clamp the sides to the face frame, about a half inch in from the sides, this just gives a better look in my opinion. Secure with the long screws. Feel the holes on the side with button plugs. The holes on the face frame will be cover with the trim.
In side supports are put into place, rail on the top and bottom of the drawer section, connected with pocket screws. Then put supports from the back rails to the front, again with pocket screws and clamps.
Now it is starting to take shape. I router my edges I want routered and sand everything nice and smooth with 120 grit.
Next come the sides. 2x3 for the front stile, 2x4 for the back, 2x4 for the rails. Measure out the width the placement of rails, bottom rail same height as the 2x3 rail on the face frame. Drill half way through the 2x3 and 2x4 stiles, clamp rails in place, secure with the 2.5 screws. I measured out the base boards in my house and made a cut out in rear of the 2x4 stile. This allows the table to sit flush against the wall.
Now we attach the sides to the face. Drill two holes half way through the 2x3 on the side and a hole on each upper corner of the face frame, half way again. I clamp the sides to the face frame, about a half inch in from the sides, this just gives a better look in my opinion. Secure with the long screws. Feel the holes on the side with button plugs. The holes on the face frame will be cover with the trim.
In side supports are put into place, rail on the top and bottom of the drawer section, connected with pocket screws. Then put supports from the back rails to the front, again with pocket screws and clamps.
Now it is starting to take shape. I router my edges I want routered and sand everything nice and smooth with 120 grit.
Making the Glow Strip
Set the router table up with a carving bit of your choice, I chose a half inch bit. Set it up to run a strip in the middle of a 2x4, 1/4 deep. Run a 8ft 2x4 through, clean up the channel with sand paper. Do the same with 2x3. Make sure you find the middle of each board. I ran some test boards.
Put some wood glue in the channels, use a paint brush to cover the sides and bottom. Not a lot of glue, just enough for a thin layer. Tape up the ends of the channels with duct tape. Mix up enough resin to barely cover the bottom of the channels. Add the white paint to the resin, not a lot is needed. Cover the bottom of the channels. Let dry at least 18 hours.
Tip with the resin - use warm water to heat bottles, makes mixing much much easier. Nice to use large Popsicle sticks to strip and clear disposable cups to measure and mix in.
Mix up more resin more resin, added glow powder. I probably used 100 grams to 8 ounces resin. Fill the channels. Let them dry 24 hours.
Sand the glow strips smooth with the wood using 120 Grit. They will turn a little white and look scuffed up, that is ok. Spray with water and sand with the 320 grit, this will remove the scratches and polish the resin.
Put some wood glue in the channels, use a paint brush to cover the sides and bottom. Not a lot of glue, just enough for a thin layer. Tape up the ends of the channels with duct tape. Mix up enough resin to barely cover the bottom of the channels. Add the white paint to the resin, not a lot is needed. Cover the bottom of the channels. Let dry at least 18 hours.
Tip with the resin - use warm water to heat bottles, makes mixing much much easier. Nice to use large Popsicle sticks to strip and clear disposable cups to measure and mix in.
Mix up more resin more resin, added glow powder. I probably used 100 grams to 8 ounces resin. Fill the channels. Let them dry 24 hours.
Sand the glow strips smooth with the wood using 120 Grit. They will turn a little white and look scuffed up, that is ok. Spray with water and sand with the 320 grit, this will remove the scratches and polish the resin.
Attaching Glow Trim and Glow Shevle
Start with the 2x4, make sure your cuts are right on this piece, I barely hand enough for the top trim. Cut a piece with 45 degree angles on each end, short side of the angles should be length of face frame. Clamp onto face frame, 1.5 inches taller than frame, leaves room for pine boards and a nice lip. Attach from the rear of face frame with long screws. Make spacers to attach to the top rear of the sides, to compensate for the difference between the end of the face frame and side. Cut two more pieces with a 45 on one side each, attach to sides, clamp and screw from behind side pieces. Time to router.
For the bottom shelve I cut a piece of the 2x3 that fits between the two side prieces. I attach it with screws from behind the 2x3 into the face frame, 3 inches from the bottom. Then cut the side pieces to length, they butt up against the front 2x3 and sit flush against the back of the sides. Clamp and screw from behind 2x3 into the side pieces. Add supports with pocket screws. Router edges Reference pictures.
Time for the Pine Boards
I use 1x8 pine boards because they are under 1$ a board ft and have some beautiful grain. They Finish at 3/4x7 1/4
I cut two boards to fit the top, leaves a 1.5 gap. I use the 1.5 strip to fill that gap. I router the inner edges of the pine and both edges of the 1.5 strip. Sand with 120 grip.
Cut two boards to fit the top shelve, two pieces fit perfect. Router inner edges and sand.
On to the bottom shelve. I ripped two boards to allow two boards and a 1.5 inch strip like the top. Route red inner edges and both sides of 1.5 strip. Sand smooth.
I make the drawer openings on the face frame 1/8 wider than the pine boards. Cut three pieces the width of the drawers, they will function as doors. Router and sand
I cut two boards to fit the top, leaves a 1.5 gap. I use the 1.5 strip to fill that gap. I router the inner edges of the pine and both edges of the 1.5 strip. Sand with 120 grip.
Cut two boards to fit the top shelve, two pieces fit perfect. Router inner edges and sand.
On to the bottom shelve. I ripped two boards to allow two boards and a 1.5 inch strip like the top. Route red inner edges and both sides of 1.5 strip. Sand smooth.
I make the drawer openings on the face frame 1/8 wider than the pine boards. Cut three pieces the width of the drawers, they will function as doors. Router and sand
Stain and Polyurethane
It was a little cold out so I brought everything inside, 32 degrees. My wife was not happy when she woke up! Luckily I was able to clean up, no stains!
Wipe down with minwax special walnut. After coat is done I wiped the glow strips clean. Next a coat of weathered oak, gives a silverish weathered look, looks much richer. Wipe glow strip clean again.
Wipe on a coat of rub on polyurethane.
Wipe down with minwax special walnut. After coat is done I wiped the glow strips clean. Next a coat of weathered oak, gives a silverish weathered look, looks much richer. Wipe glow strip clean again.
Wipe on a coat of rub on polyurethane.
Assembly / Conclusion
I attach all the pine boards with the 1 5/8 screws through the bottom of the inner supports. I drill 1/4 inch deep holes in the bottom of the supports, clamp on the boards and secure.
I use the 2x6 pieces as drawer dividers. I attach with a pocket hole on the top, attached to the back of the face frame and two long screws from under the inner supports.
Attach your handles to the doors, slap on the hinges and magnetic latches and your done!
I really like how this turned out. Think it would have looked a little better with a lighter finish, closer to natural..... but gotta match the rest of our furniture. I chose 2x4 and pine boards with a lot of character, the front 2x3 has a really narly knot! The glow strip glows pretty bright, I just couldn't capture a photo in the dark. Check out my glow tree instructables, the glow is about the same, seeing it in person is the only way to get the full affect though. Let me know what you think, if you have any questions please ask.
Here are some other tables I have made, same general construction, just different designs for some friends, bullet in layed, patritotic, plain lumber. Thanks for showing interest.
I use the 2x6 pieces as drawer dividers. I attach with a pocket hole on the top, attached to the back of the face frame and two long screws from under the inner supports.
Attach your handles to the doors, slap on the hinges and magnetic latches and your done!
I really like how this turned out. Think it would have looked a little better with a lighter finish, closer to natural..... but gotta match the rest of our furniture. I chose 2x4 and pine boards with a lot of character, the front 2x3 has a really narly knot! The glow strip glows pretty bright, I just couldn't capture a photo in the dark. Check out my glow tree instructables, the glow is about the same, seeing it in person is the only way to get the full affect though. Let me know what you think, if you have any questions please ask.
Here are some other tables I have made, same general construction, just different designs for some friends, bullet in layed, patritotic, plain lumber. Thanks for showing interest.