Graffiti Laser Engraved Dice

We'll be laser engraving some dice. So naturally, you'll need a laser... and some dice.

Chessex makes great dice that engrave really well, but they don't always have them in stock. Bescon is another brand that engraves okay, but they don't "crisp up" quite as nice when you "cut" a line on your engraver.

I'm including two original D6 designs with a graffiti theme that you may engrave and use for personal use. I'm also including the complete set for one of the styles. The files *may* need scaling (as they were created with an older version of Inkscape). You can find more of my dice work and creations at DougOutCrafts on Facebook and Instagram.

• Laser Engraver/Cutter
• Blank Dice (Cast Acrylic is preferred. Chessex Brand is ideal, but Bescon is okay.)
• A thick piece of corrugated paper (cardboard)

Plan ahead. Are your dice going to be the finished product? Or are these going to be masters / prototypes for molding?

If your plan is to use the dice as they are, then your design should include two components, a "engrave" and a "cut".

Engrave refers to the back-and-forth engraving that creates wide voids in the design. Also known as "raster" or "fill". In my example, this is how I created what would be the red brick background.

Cut refers to a curved or linear path that make a crisp line. This aspect is what can make a die made on a laser engraver BETTER than one made by molding alone. In my example, this is how I created the brick lines and the edge of my numbers and space.

For this version, I cut out the green square in cardboard and removed it so that I had a place to return my die after each face was engraved. I adjusted the height of the laser, then engraved the pink area and lightly cut the black lines.

If your dice are going to be prototypes or molds, though, a cut won't really show up. So in that set-up, it's best just to focus on Engraving. This was my process for ensuring that my design met the manufacturing needs from QWorkshop, a leading designer and manufacturer in dice making.

A robust design for molds works best when you make sure your negative spaces and your engraving spaces aren't too small. To help with this, I've included an "Engraving Puck" in my file. Move it around in those tight spots to find any trouble spots that need modified.

For this version, I cut out the green square in cardboard and removed it so that I had a place to return my die after each face was engraved. I adjusted the height of the laser, then engraved the red area.

Time to engrave. But first you need a way for the engraver to accurately pinpoint the position of your die. To do this, include a "cutout" as part of your design; a simple square (or other appropriate shape) that will be cut out of a single piece of cardboard. This cut-out is where you'll park your die to engrave each unique face.

Cut out the shape. Check the fit. Your die should seat snugly and predictably into position.

Now adjust the bed so that your laser focus matches the top plane of your die.

Then get to engraving! The video shows how this looks. (Pardon the noisy machine.)

Rotate your die around for each unique engraving and ensure that your next face design is ready to go and matching the same position as the last face. You won't need to keep re-cutting the "parking spot", just return the die to that spot each time. (For d20's, this can be rather exhausting.)

This works well for all dice except the D4. For that model, you'll need to suspend your piece of cardboard (or thin MDF wood) higher on small blocks to allow the D4 to "hang" while seated. MDF works best in this scenario.

Engraving tips:

• It's best to check the calibration of your z-axis with a few test cuts. Cut your design (rather than engrave) to check for the most crisp and clean lines possible.
• Give the machine a minute between engraving each face to clear the fumes.
• The sticky residue that coats your die is normal. It will wash off with water and/or soap.
• Roll your blank die one time before engraving your first (highest) number. I mean... that face is DESTINED to be the most commonly rolled face, right?

There are many ways to color your dice. My favorite is to use cloth dye. But you can also use any other inking techniques (including just a watery acrylic paint).

• Dying the dice is the method if you plan to show off the lasered lines. It's long lasting and it preserves any line work, leaving those parts black. Use a watered down version of a color of your choice and let the dice soak for about 10 minutes. When you pull them from their bath, buff them off with a white "magic eraser" cleaning sponge. It will remove the coloring from the non-engraved spaces, but the engraved spaces will hold on to the color quite will. Dry with a paper towel.

• You can also use a watered down acrylic to paint. Apply liberally, allow to dry (10 minutes) then wipe away excess paint using using a damp paper towel. Dry with a fresh towel. That's the method seen in the pictures.