How to Build a Batting Cage in Backyard

Before you purchase the wood for your DIY batting cage, I encourage you to read through this article to make sure my design fits your needs and your cage. Either way, you can easily adjust the amount of wood to fit your needs. Keep in mind, the lumber I used for this backyard batting cage design is pressure treated and ready for outdoor use.

Posts: 4″x4″x12′ – Qty. 8
Runners: 2’x6’x12′ – Qty. 4
Cross Boards: 2’x6’x16′ – Qty. 3
Support Braces: 2’x6’x8′ – Qty. 3

Determine Size & Mark Area

DIY Batting Cage Total Area Needed copy.jpg

First, I created a 3D drawing in Sketchup of the batting cage to determine the best layout and the amount of space needed.

I decided to build the batting cage adjacent to my detached garage/workshop. This location is perfect for a batting cage for the following reasons:

The detached garage blocks the afternoon sun.
My neighbor’s massive 300 year old live oak tree blocks the morning sun.
This location fits my future plans to cover the batting cage with an attached lean-to roof.

In total, the total area I had to work with was 65.5 feet x 21 feet (L x W). I will be installing a 55ft long batting cage, so I had 10 extra feet in length.

Batting Cage Size

I decided to purchase a 12 ft (Height) x 14 ft (Width) x 55 ft (Length) backyard batting cage. As a result, I marked an area 16 ft wide and roughly 56.5 ft long with wooden stakes, a chalk line reel, and spray paint. The diagram shows the overall area and the batting cage area.

Choose Batting Cage Net

If you already chose your batting cage net, feel free to skip this step.

Choosing the type of batting cage net is the first thing you need to do.

Essentially, you need to make two choices for your DIY batting cage net:

Net Material (HDPE, Nylon, or KVX200)
Twine Size (#24, #36, or #42)

Batting Cage Net Material

HDPE (High-Density Polyethylene), KVX200, and Nylon are three different materials used in batting cage nets.

Each contain unique characteristics you need to consider before making a final choice.

Obviously, these backyard batting cage nets fit the needs of both softball players and baseball players.

Choosing between these materials for your own net depends on factors such as budget, intended use schedule, and environmental conditions.

HDPE (High-Density Polyethylene)

Material Characteristics: HDPE is a type of plastic known for its high strength, durability, and resistance to impact and weathering. It is commonly used in both knotted and knotless quality batting cages.
Advantages: HDPE batting cage netting is lightweight, strong, and an overall good batting cage net. Moisture and UV resistance make it a common choice for outdoor batting cages. HDPE nets often last longer outdoors compared to nylon. However, nylon withstands impact better than HDPE.
Cost Range: HDPE netting is often more budget-friendly compared to nylon and KVX200.

KVX200

Material Characteristics: KVX200 is a specific type of netting material designed for enhanced durability and performance in batting cage nets.
Advantages: KVX200 is known for its advanced knotless design, which reduces the risk of ball abrasion. It is often treated with UV inhibitors for outdoor use and provides good visibility for both players and coaches. Of the different types of batting cages, KVX200 netting provides the best overall choice for strength, longevity, and outdoor use. You can learn more about KVX200 batting cage nets by watching this video.
Cost Range: KVX200 netting falls within a mid to high price range and provides the best option.

Nylon

Material Characteristics: Nylon is a synthetic material known for its strength and durability. It is often used in knotted netting, which contribute to the net’s overall resilience.
Advantages: Nylon netting is mainly used for indoor batting cages. Nylon holds up well in high impact softball and baseball training environments. It can be used outdoors if treated for UV resistance.
Cost Range: Nylon netting tends to fall within a mid to high price range.

Nylon works well indoors with a proven track record for strength.

HDPE provides a balance of strength and flexibility and the most economical choice for indoor/outdoors.

KVX200 is designed for high-performance and durability. This makes it the best choice for indoor and outdoor batting cage nets.

Since my cage will be outdoors, I elected to get the KVX200 batting cage net instead of a nylon or HDPE batting cage.

Twine Size for DIY Batting Cage

Twine size, often referred to as twine gauge, is a measure of the wall thickness or diameter of the individual strands or threads used in batting cage netting.

It’s an important factor in determining the strength, durability, and overall performance of the netting. The twine size in batting cage nets is denoted by a numerical value, such as #24, #36, or #42.

Here is a quick comparison of #24, #36, and #42 twine size:

#24 Twine Size:
Level of Play: T-Ball to Little League or 40-50mph range
Longevity: Low to Mid
#36 Twine Size:
Level of Play: Middle School to High School
Longevity: Mid to High
#42 Twine Size:
Level of Play: College to Professional
Longevity: High to Very High

Batting Cage Frame

DIY Batting Cage Main with Fence BTN.jpg

The design of my own batting cage frame consists of 8 posts, 4 runners, 3 cross bars, and support braces. It is important to design the layout before you start by hand or in a 3D design program like I used. A solid design will help you reduce material waste and minimize labor.

First, I marked the post locations. The measurements in the diagram below are on center and require a 2x6 @ 12ft long to connect the posts – no cutting necessary.

Dig Post Holes

Once I laid out the post hole locations, I used my post hole auger to dig the post holes. I bought this post hole auger a few years ago to build a fence in my backyard. Surprisingly, I use it very often for planting shrubs and for other projects such as this batting cage.

Next, I placed a concrete round form in each post hole and used 2 bags of concrete to fill each concrete form. Keep in mind, I plan to mount the 4x4 posts on top of the concrete. I did this b/c the post locations may change in the future when I build my lean-to.

After I poured the concrete, I placed an anchor bolt in the middle of the concrete. Also known as a J-Bolt, the concrete anchor allows me to secure a post base to the concrete. More on this in a later step.

Cut Wood Posts to Size

While the concrete dried, I cut the 4×4 posts to size. First, I cross cut each post with my jigsaw.

Cut Wood Post Half Lap Joint

Then, I used my speed square to mark the cut lines for the half lap joint. Keep in mind, the 4×4 post measures 3.5” x 3.5” and a 2 x 6 measures 1.5” x 5.5”. So, I marked the half lap joint 5.5” from the top and 1.5” from the side.

I like using half lap joints with posts. The weight of the boards attached to the post gets distributed through the entire post. If boards are simply fastened to the post with bolts, the bolts bear the weight.

Next, I used my jigsaw to cut along the lines. Also, a hand saw works well to make these cuts if you don’t own a jigsaw.

Once all the cuts were made, I cleaned up the inside of the half lap joint with an old chisel.

Corner Post Half Lap Joint

The half lap joints for the corner posts require one more cut. The corner posts will have a runner attached to it as well as a cross board.

As I marked my lines, I wrote an ‘x’ on the area of the wood post I needed to discard and a ‘check’ for the area I needed to keep.

Install Adjustable Post Base

Instead of mounting the 4×4 posts in concrete, I chose to use an adjustable post base. Plus, concrete is permanent and I didn’t know if I would need to move the post in the future. Maybe I’ll need to move it to adhere to a building code for the lean-to roof I plan to build.

The post base rests on top of the concrete anchor and adjusts about 1/2” in all directions if needed.

First, I placed the base on the anchor and hand-tightened a washer and nut to secure it. Then, I repeated this process for all post holes and checked for square when complete with a string.

Once all anchors were in place, I tightened the nut with a wrench.

Level and Secure Wood Posts

Next, I placed a 4×4 post with a post level on the base. Then, I used 2 boards to hold the post in place and secured the base to the post with structural screws.

I quickly realized this post base was not as sturdy as I hoped. As a result, I used a retrofit post base to provide better stability for my batting cage with wood posts.

Pre-Drill Holes in Runners

I drilled pilot holes in the runners and cross boards and drilled the structural screws halfway. Obviously, it is much easier to do this while the 2×6 boards are on the ground rather than in the air.

Install Runners

I installed the 4 2×6 runners on center on each post. As I mentioned previously, the half lap joints allow the posts to distribute the weight of the batting cage frame.

Cross Boards

Each end of each cross board requires 4 structural screws. So, two screws attach to the post and two screws attach to the runner.

Wood Frame Supports

To further support the rear batting cage wood frame as well as the frame adjacent to my workshop, I installed 2×6 supports.

Also, the batting cage support cable will pull on the rear frame. So, I felt it was a good idea to anchor it.

Turnbuckle Cable Locations

To support the batting cage evenly, I installed 4 turnbuckle cable kits with wire rope. Additionally, the 3 cable lines allow me to slide the back of the batting cage up to the back of my detached garage. This will allow my 2 sons to use the cage in the rain.

Install Turnbuckle Cable Kit

First, I installed two eye bolts, the cable, and secured the turnbuckles.

Next, I tightened the turnbuckles until the cable was taut. To further tighten the turnbuckles, I used a wrench. Once I dropped my wrench, I used my hand.

The turnbuckle kit came with everything I needed to install the cable.

Batting Cage Net Install

This batting cage is 12’ H, 14’ W, 55’ L. The batting cage arrived rolled up in a package and I used my dolly to move it to the batting cage location. Obviously, this batting cage is heavy – very heavy.

First, my son and I located the front and rear of the net.

Next, we stretched out the batting cage net and tied each corner to the batting cage frame.

Then, I evenly spaced batting cage hangers along the front, back, and sides of the net.

inally, I attached the hangers to the cables and adjusted as needed.

Also, the picture above shows me using a clip directly attached to the batting cage net, but this was a temporary solution until the batting cage hangers arrived.

Account for Sag

After experimenting for a short time, I concluded the batting cage should sag roughly 12 inches to 18 inches in order to absorb the baseballs and softballs.

If the cage is too tight, balls bounce off the net. However, the balls will hit the posts if too much sag is in place. The pictures in this step show the batting cage without sag and with sag.

After I hung the batting cage net, the actual size was roughly 12 feet wide and 11′ tall. Ultimately, a 12 feet wide batting cage provides plenty room for players of all ages.

Conclusion

I hope this project provided you with value. Feel free to contact me anytime if you have any questions. I'm happy to help!

Be sure to checkout my YouTube channel and Blog for more DIY tutorials.