How to Build a High Chair

This is a step by step tutorial on how to build a high chair. The seat is 28" off the ground and the top of the chair is right at 4'. This is the perfect size for a 42" island!

Watch the video if you need any help throughout the process!

EACH CHAIR:

2x10 1pc 36" long

2x4 2pcs 8ft long

2x2 1pc 8ft long

1x3 1pc 8ft long

2" pocket screws 50pcs

3/8" dowel rod

Oil based paint

stain and polyurethane

Your boards should now be 9" wide.

Apply wood glue to the area that you just trimmed off. Attach the two boards with screws (trimmed sides together). This will create a cleaner joint.

2x4 48" two pieces

2x4 26.5" two pieces

2x2 15" two pieces

2x2 14.5" four pieces

1x3 14.5" two pieces

1x3 13.5" two pieces

1x3 13" three pieces

These will be for your back legs/chair back.

I used an 80 grit sandpaper for this job.

2x2 14.5" Make four pocket holes in two of the pieces

1x3 14.5" Make five pocket holes in two of the pieces

1x3 13.5" Make five pocket holes in two of the pieces

Mark 10" up from the floor on all four legs.

Mark 26.5" up from the floor on the back legs.

(the back leg/chair back on this design is symmetrical. Either end can be the floor end.)

Attach the 13.5" 1x3s to the side of the 26.5" legs, flush with the top (use 2 pocket screws and wood glue).

Attach the other side flush with the bottom of the 26.5" line you drew on the back leg/chairback.

Make sure the middle pocket hole is facing up, so you can attach the seat later.

I laid a piece of 1/4" plywood under the 1x3s so these pieces would sit back from the outside of the legs 1/4".

(This is personal preference. I have built chairs by eyeballing the distance from the outside edge of the chairs)

Attach the 14.5" 1x3s to the front side of the 26.5" legs, flush with the top (use 2 pocket screws and wood glue).

Attach the other 14.5" 1x3 flush with the bottom of the 26.5" line you drew on the back leg/chairback.

Make sure the middle pocket hole is facing up, so you can attach the seat later.

I am also using a 1/4" plywood to make sure these boards are 1/4" from the outside edge of the legs.

Attach one 14.5" 2x2 to the front leg. It should be flush with the bottom of the 10" mark made earlier.

Attach the other 14.5" 2x2 to the back leg. It should be flush with the bottom of the 10" mark made earlier too.

Use wood glue and pocket screws to attach the two side together using the same techniques in the steps above.

Mark your 15" 2x2s and trim them so they will fit between the chair legs on the sides just below the 10" mark made earlier.

Drill 4 pocket holes in the bottom of each of these.

Attach both with wood glue and pocket screws to the chair legs flush with the bottom of the 10" mark.

trim two notches out of the seat top so it will fit flush with the back of the chair.

They should be roughly 1.5 x 2".

Temporarily attach the seat top using 2 screws in two of the pocket holes made in your chair bracing earlier.

Mark the center of the last two 14.5" 2x2s and 3" from each side.

Center the 13" 1x3s on the the 2x2 marks and attach them using wood glue and finishing nails.

Make a mark 3" up from the seat top on the chairback uprights.

Attach the seat back by drilling a 3/8" hole in the side of the seat and attaching it with 2" screws.

The bottom 2x2 should be flush with the top of the 3" line.

Cover your screw holes by fitting a dowel rod in the hole, and trimming it off.

You're almost done!

Remove the seat top to make it easier to finish the seat top.

Apply wood filler to any nail holes or unwanted cracks, and sand as desired.

I applied a dark walnut stain to the seat top.

Once that dried, I brushed on a coat of satin polyurethane.

For an even better finish, allow the polyurethane to dry, sand lightly with 220 sandpaper, and apply an additional coat.

Paint the chair your favorite color.

I mixed hunter green and satin white from Rustoleum.

Reinstall the seat top with all 4 screws.