KZ ZSN Pro Faceplate (and Design Your Own for Other Models)

This guide will explain how to make your own faceplate, I'm sure there are a huge number of ways to customise it. Instructions for designing your own for other similar models at the end.

• 08 pentalobe (5 sided star) screwdriver
• Stanley blade
• 3d Printer

1. Use a 0.8 5 sided pentalobe bit (may be different, the product photos and box show possibly a T1 torx) to remove the screw.
2. Push a Stanley blade in between the metal faceplate and plastic body at the edges and wiggle it a bit, do this on all sides till it pops off

1. Make the 'other' ear by duplicating the shape a mirroring it
2. Print using 0.1mm height on an FDM printer, I found any taller than this and the holes get closed.
3. You can show the print infill (like in the photo) by setting the slicer to not print any bottom fill layers

Print file available here (look for remixes by other people as well)

https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/64469-kz-zsn-pro-and-zsn-pro-x-faceplate

Because the part is small and 3D printers are not super detailed at this size you probably have to do a bit of finishing:

1. Drill out both holes with 0.8 pentalobe bit
2. Use stanley blade or something else to make a recess for the screw head. You have to do this otherwise the screw won't bite into the plastic on the inside properly and will wear away the plastic. Make sure the screw recesses properly before screwing it into the main body.
3. The print is likely to be a bit rough so may need sandpapering very fine sandpaper. I've made the part that rubs against my ear the most (the shortest side of the roughly triangle shape) slightly too bit to allow for quite a bit of sandpapering.

3d prints are pretty easy to print, there are lots of guides out there. I printed these tests with nail varnish, I'm sure there are lots of better options.

Only paint the top and sides of the faceplate otherwise it won't fit into the recess properly.

1. The new faceplate isn't the perfect shape and 3d printers aren't super accurate at this scale so may need to sandpaper the faceplate a bit to get it right.
2. The screw is attached to plastic inside the housing so removing and putting the screw can wear away at the plastic so the screw falls out. I fixed this by adding a very tiny amount of superglue to the end of a needle and rubbing the needle on the inside of the hole to replace the material worn away by the screw. DONT TRY AND BLOB SUPERGLUE DIRECTLY ONTO THE HOLE, ITS TOO SMALL AND MIGHT DAMAGE THE EARPHONE
3. If you're painting the new faceplate remember to not cover up the holes otherwise the earphone won't work or attach properly.
4. The bottom part of the faceplate which recesses inside the housing is a bit too small (to allow to innacuracies in printing so it is probably less waterproof than the original metal faceplate and will fall off without the screw.

1. Making a more accurate version
2. Make a version for laser cutting
3. Making a mold to make poured resin faceplates
4. Experiments with different paints
5. Making a silhouette with measurement people can just trace off the screen or print out

1. Work out how to remove the faceplate without destroying the earphone (I think this is best to try with earphones with screw holes)
2. Scan the faceplate on a paper scanner
3. Using Photoshop to create a black silhouette on a white background
4. Using Inkscape to change the jpeg into a svg file
5. Uploading the svg to Tinkercad to make a 3d model
6. Guestimating the size of the shape, the recessed piece and the holes
7. Printing them out, testing them and adjusting the size as needed.