Kiev 6c Medium Format Slit Scan

slit scan photography ,with bigger film..scans at 100th and 50th of a second.

MATERIALS (most of it i had in stock)

PART SUPPLIER/SOURCE COST

• medium format camera body ebay russia 40usd 27ukp
• geared motor ebay china 4.60ukp
• a lens borrowed off my other kiev
• battery box taken from super8 camera
• bits of wire warehouse clearance spoils
• curly wire poundland usb vacume cleaner
• thin aluminum behind gas fire in house renovation
• lever micro switch cpc
• craft foam hobby craft £5 or £10 for 25/30 a4 sheets
• epoxy resin 90min uhuplus ebay uk £9
• epoxy resin 5mins maplin £6
• bondo/car body filler car repair shop depends how much you buy
• spray paint come on you know how to get spray paint
• sand paper
• finishing paper
• toggle switch
• resistors
• camera leather that i didnt use as one sheet would not have covered all the panels.

TOOLS

• small screwdrivers and pliers
• tin snips
• dremel style multi tool with reinforced fiber cutting disks. I GOT 100 FROM CHINA EBAY FOR £10. IM NOT PAYING£5 FOR TWO.
• soldering stuff
• scissors
• cir-clip pliers
• spatula
• good scalpel
• solvent for glue removal

Health and safety equipment, erm optional .if you like or need that sort of thing. just set up ambulance as a speed dial. iv grown accustomed to noxious chemical fumes, flying bits of metal ,sharp edges and trip hazards everywhere. im currently re growing my little finger nail after loosing half of it.

there's a few screws about the top cover, easy enough , but first you got to remove the knobs and dials.

the film speed indicator on top of the winder is quite deceptive on how its removed.other than that its all fairly easy..

the film length 120/240 dial and shutter speed selector both have compression fitting in the top of the case. trying not to bend the case , grab em with pliers and twist till loose . twist some more and they will fall out.

i also took of the name plate for a brutalist look, brass rivets held it on. pried off with screwdriver

after id removed most of the speed selector section i realised all the mechanics come out in one piece .like a early zenit.would have made access easier .

as taking to bits keep running it. if something you need to work stops try and reverse your last step.

what to keep

• wind lever puts mirror down
• shutter button puts mirror up
• (for now)wind lever turns film spool

what to loose

• speed selector mech
• bar that cocks the shutter, goes across back of camera.spring clip washer holds it on.
• shutter curtain and rollers.screws at bottom of mech attach plates that can go making rollers mostly fall off.

if youve got a cog that fits your motor and fits the teeth of the winding mechanism. there are a couple there but i used a bigger one out of a i think a fed camera.

if you feel you can motorize the winder then you will have to isolate the lever from the winding gear..

lever operated slit scan are more reliable , easier to make, and you have a lot more control over the speed.

motorised ones make longer pictures but tend to break often.and get through loads of film.

this is where the camera can get rather stubborn and frustrating.

you gotta be stupidly accurate here. in hindsight i should have put a single layer of sticky pad around the motor to give it just enough play and springiness. but i didnt think of that at the time... this is the toughest stage

screw it to a bit of plastic glue it on and tweak it to work nice.

to get a choice of speeds i wanted an option of slowing down the motor.

time to shorten any long bit of wire that will get in the way. and start putting it back together. i also took out the spring washer that keep the film taught ,it creates friction in resistance to the film advancing. i need the film to advance as easily as possible.

battery compartment from a super8 camera , the back needed sanding flat,it also provided a key for the glue.

i found a cool coil wire to use for the power, as the battery compartment is on film compartment door, it needs to move .

a nice shiny coat of black paint makes it look friendly. after filler and sanding

hides all the gluey mess that keeps the motor on. filler flattened off the end.

this should keep the line crisp and avoid any reflections or flair.