LED-Lighted Picture Frame
I had the Idea to illuminate a picture frame, because I had a LED-Bar and a fitting power supply left.
The picture is an IKEA picture called ''ERIKSLUND'' in a black frame.
This picture was good for this project because it had some free space inside between the backside and the frontside of the glass.
The picture is an IKEA picture called ''ERIKSLUND'' in a black frame.
This picture was good for this project because it had some free space inside between the backside and the frontside of the glass.
All What You Need
Not pictured:
Shrinking hose in different sizes, double side adhesive tape, hot melt gun and a few screws.
Shrinking hose in different sizes, double side adhesive tape, hot melt gun and a few screws.
Remove the Backside
The backside is fixed by a few stapels. When you remove it first with the screwdriver, they can breake in the middle, and then it is difficult to remove, so be careful!
Make Holes for the Switch and the Power-Cable
Make two holes in the frame for the switch and the power-Cable.
The Hole for the Switch can be may at a lower Edge in the Side.
A Good Place for the Hole for the Power Cable is at the Downside in the Near of The Switch-Hole.
The Hole for the Switch can be may at a lower Edge in the Side.
A Good Place for the Hole for the Power Cable is at the Downside in the Near of The Switch-Hole.
Solder a Piece of Wire to the LED-Bar
There are 2 Wires on the LED-Bar, dismantle the first milimetres of the Wires. Then dismantle the First milimetres of the 2 Pole wire Too.
Make 2 Pieces of the Shrinking Hose that are approximatly 3cm Long and Put it over the Wires. Then you can Solder the Wires from the LED-Bar each with one Wire from the 2 Wire-Cable. Then Put the Shrinking Hose Pieces over the Soldered Area and Shrink it with the Flame of a Lighter.
Make 2 Pieces of the Shrinking Hose that are approximatly 3cm Long and Put it over the Wires. Then you can Solder the Wires from the LED-Bar each with one Wire from the 2 Wire-Cable. Then Put the Shrinking Hose Pieces over the Soldered Area and Shrink it with the Flame of a Lighter.
Attach the LED-Bar in the Frame
Extra Strong Dual Side Adhesive Foam Tape is the Best and easiest Way to attache.
Cut 3 or 4 Pieces from the Tape Roll and attach the Bar with this into the Frame at the Top-Side.
Cut 3 or 4 Pieces from the Tape Roll and attach the Bar with this into the Frame at the Top-Side.
Attach the Cable
Look how long the 2 Pole Cable must be to lay the Cable to the Switch, make Points of Hot Glue and Press the Cable in the Glue.
Attach and Connect the Switch
This step isn't Complicated. One Pole of the LED-Bar can be Connect Direcly to one Pole of the Power Supply. Like Step 4, Dismantle, Solder and Isolate with Shrinking Hose.
Solder the Second Pole of the LED-Bar to the middle Brad of the Switch and Isolate it with Shrinking Hose in a Bigger Size, the Second Pole of the Power Supply you can Solder to One of the Other 2 Brads of the Switch, Doesn't Matter, Isolate this Brad too and Attach the Switch with Hot-Glue.
Solder the Second Pole of the LED-Bar to the middle Brad of the Switch and Isolate it with Shrinking Hose in a Bigger Size, the Second Pole of the Power Supply you can Solder to One of the Other 2 Brads of the Switch, Doesn't Matter, Isolate this Brad too and Attach the Switch with Hot-Glue.
Light Test
This is a Simple Project, so you almost cannot Fail.
P.S. This is an IKEA Light Bar called ''DIODER'' But i Buyed a Single Bar.
P.S. This is an IKEA Light Bar called ''DIODER'' But i Buyed a Single Bar.
Reattach the Backside
You can't Use the Staples a second Time, so use little Screws to Reattach it.
I used Cross-Drive Screws that are 20mm Long and had a Diameter of 2,5mm.
I used Cross-Drive Screws that are 20mm Long and had a Diameter of 2,5mm.
Finish!
Now the Project is Finished, And Looks Very Very Great at Night.
The Power Supply is Always Powered, Because in Standby the Power Supply consumed only 20mA
The Power Supply is Always Powered, Because in Standby the Power Supply consumed only 20mA