LED PizzaLightBox
In this instructable I'll show you one way of using up spare strands of LEDS to make a useful light.
Reasoning: I love leds. They're reasonably efficient, last a LONG time, and if I can get away with not having to throw away/recycle but rather reuse, I'm all over it!
Arguably you could build this from scratch - with a power supply, LEDS, resistors, soldering, etc - but I had these strings of LEDS left over from my wedding. I don't plan to decorate with them - so I might as well make them functional.
Reasoning: I love leds. They're reasonably efficient, last a LONG time, and if I can get away with not having to throw away/recycle but rather reuse, I'm all over it!
Arguably you could build this from scratch - with a power supply, LEDS, resistors, soldering, etc - but I had these strings of LEDS left over from my wedding. I don't plan to decorate with them - so I might as well make them functional.
Materials!
Total cost for this was about 20 bucks - the cost of the LED string.
Ikea 'Glansa" led light strings. 144 Soft White LED's per string, Rated at 6 Watts, 5 meters long, CAD$20.00 marked down from $30.00. Works out to about 14 cents per led, comes with power supply, and saves me hours of soldering. Sounds like a deal to me.
Lightly used pizza box - Preferably white - as it reflects more useful light to you - and brown is blah.
Straightedge - somewhat optional, helps to find the center.
Ruler - Always handy. "This project rules!"
Writing instrument - take your pick! I wouldn't recommend blood.
Pokey instrument - I used a philips screwdriver.
<not shown> Small piece of duct tape" - Strain relief for the wire protruding from the box.
Ikea 'Glansa" led light strings. 144 Soft White LED's per string, Rated at 6 Watts, 5 meters long, CAD$20.00 marked down from $30.00. Works out to about 14 cents per led, comes with power supply, and saves me hours of soldering. Sounds like a deal to me.
Lightly used pizza box - Preferably white - as it reflects more useful light to you - and brown is blah.
Straightedge - somewhat optional, helps to find the center.
Ruler - Always handy. "This project rules!"
Writing instrument - take your pick! I wouldn't recommend blood.
Pokey instrument - I used a philips screwdriver.
<not shown> Small piece of duct tape" - Strain relief for the wire protruding from the box.
How to Measure a Grid Without a Protractor.
This string says on the package its supposed to be 144 diodes. To be certain (it would suck to come up one short), I counted and sure enough - the kind (literally) minimum wage workers in some far off land managed to hit it dead on.
144 is convenient because its 122. 12x12 verticies would surround 11x11 boxes in a grid - All we need to do is center a grid of 11x11 1 inch squares to make a 12x12 grid of points to use. Really this part isn't 100% necessary but I like to be accurate...ish
I decided to poke the holes in the box TOP - no grease there. I took the pictures after drawing the grid, so I hope this makes any sense - really you should be able to figure it out! Any problems feel free to ask!
(pic 1) Start by drawing an X across the box - this will find the center.
(pic 2) Make a straight line following the lines in the corrugation. Measure from the center line to the edge of the box. In my case 7 1/8".
(pic 3) Measure from the center x to the edge of the box, perpendicular to the first center line. (7 1/8" in my case)
(pic 4) Measure perpendicular to the first center line at each of its ends 7 1/8" to find the other center line.
(pic 5) Measure from each center line at both ends 5.5 inches outward in each direction(to make an 11" centeredbox). Divide that box into 11 1" sections and you'll have a neat little grid!
....OR just make 144 dots wherever you want. Whatever works for you!
144 is convenient because its 122. 12x12 verticies would surround 11x11 boxes in a grid - All we need to do is center a grid of 11x11 1 inch squares to make a 12x12 grid of points to use. Really this part isn't 100% necessary but I like to be accurate...ish
I decided to poke the holes in the box TOP - no grease there. I took the pictures after drawing the grid, so I hope this makes any sense - really you should be able to figure it out! Any problems feel free to ask!
(pic 1) Start by drawing an X across the box - this will find the center.
(pic 2) Make a straight line following the lines in the corrugation. Measure from the center line to the edge of the box. In my case 7 1/8".
(pic 3) Measure from the center x to the edge of the box, perpendicular to the first center line. (7 1/8" in my case)
(pic 4) Measure perpendicular to the first center line at each of its ends 7 1/8" to find the other center line.
(pic 5) Measure from each center line at both ends 5.5 inches outward in each direction(to make an 11" centeredbox). Divide that box into 11 1" sections and you'll have a neat little grid!
....OR just make 144 dots wherever you want. Whatever works for you!
PUNCH IT BABY!
I did this step in 2 phases to make the holes a little cleaner, again, me being anal, not necessary if you don't care about tidiness!
1. Rest the cardboard on another piece of cardboard. I worked on the floor. If this is your mother or wife's laminate flooring...do it outside. :D
2. Gently poke holes through at each point of the squares - just enough to break the surface on the other side. The philips head was really good for this - its a natural borne boring tool!
3. Punch them again, from the GOOD side to make pretty round holes.
I say again - do NOT wreck the floor doing this!
1. Rest the cardboard on another piece of cardboard. I worked on the floor. If this is your mother or wife's laminate flooring...do it outside. :D
2. Gently poke holes through at each point of the squares - just enough to break the surface on the other side. The philips head was really good for this - its a natural borne boring tool!
3. Punch them again, from the GOOD side to make pretty round holes.
I say again - do NOT wreck the floor doing this!
Poke It...baby?
This is a bit tedious, but not hard at all.
1. Firmly grasp the first led as close to the diode head as possible. You don't want to damage the fragile legs on these babies. Force it through a hole from the inside facing out.
2. Repeat step 1 143 more times, using a different led each time :D
3 Tape down the cord so it cant pull loose.
4. Close up the box!
5. Admire! (continued)
1. Firmly grasp the first led as close to the diode head as possible. You don't want to damage the fragile legs on these babies. Force it through a hole from the inside facing out.
2. Repeat step 1 143 more times, using a different led each time :D
3 Tape down the cord so it cant pull loose.
4. Close up the box!
5. Admire! (continued)
Revel! (Test Results)
Bask in the glory of having a low power awesomelight that you can use for several things!
Uses so far - kitchen light - not quite bright enough as a stand-alone, but a few of these will really kick!
Reading light - really really soft and no shadows (well, 144 overlapping shadows, so its nothing!)
Work bench light - Great for the task, as it is a DC adapter, not AC - so you dont get any bad flicker related problems with power tools!
Photography light - with or without a diffuser it looks AWESOME! (see pics) Don't forget to set your white balance to "Really freaking warm" or "custom evaluate" if you have it.
Please don't forget to RATE AND COMMENT!!! Constructive criticism fully appreciated!
-Thanks for reading!
Frollard
Uses so far - kitchen light - not quite bright enough as a stand-alone, but a few of these will really kick!
Reading light - really really soft and no shadows (well, 144 overlapping shadows, so its nothing!)
Work bench light - Great for the task, as it is a DC adapter, not AC - so you dont get any bad flicker related problems with power tools!
Photography light - with or without a diffuser it looks AWESOME! (see pics) Don't forget to set your white balance to "Really freaking warm" or "custom evaluate" if you have it.
Please don't forget to RATE AND COMMENT!!! Constructive criticism fully appreciated!
-Thanks for reading!
Frollard