Laser Engraved Painting With the Fordite Method

This is one of my favorite projects to do with my laser, and it’s something most people don’t realize is even possible. In this instructable, I’ll walk you through the steps to create a laser-engraved painting on canvas using the Fordite method. I’ll be replicating (as closely as possible) Vincent Van Gogh's "Starry Night."

The Fordite method is a named after the man-made gemstone Fordite, a byproduct of an old automotive painting process. Fordite was formed over time as overspray from painting accumulated on factory rails, creating layers of cured paint. This material was later "mined," cut, polished, and used as a gemstone in jewelry. The randomness of this process results in something truly unique.

The technique I use for this project mimics the creation of Fordite by applying layers of paint on canvas and allowing each layer to dry. However, rather than random colors, I intentionally layer the paint progressing from lightest to darkest. This approach gives us some control, as a more intense laser engraves deeper and exposes lighter colors. Despite this, the final result is still unpredictable, which is part of the fun—you never quite know how it will turn out.

Tools:

xTool S1 Laser Engraver 40W

Software:

xTool Creative Space

ImagR

Materials:

Canvas (panel or stretch)

Spray paint

Clearcoat

Creative Space has built-in tools for preparing images for engraving, but I prefer using ImagR for this type of project due to its additional functionality. ImagR is a free, web-based software that’s straightforward to use.

1. Select your image and upload it into ImagR in greyscale.
2. Crop and resize the image to fit your canvas.
3. Select the engraving material. For a diode laser, choose "Norton White Tile Painted Black" to get a negative image.
4. Adjust the Gamma, Brightness, and Contrast. This step requires some guesswork. I typically set the Gamma Adjustment around 1.3, but Brightness and Contrast depend on the original image and the effect you're aiming for. I used a Brightness of 15 and Contrast of 0, but a higher Brightness might have been better.
5. Download the new image.

As mentioned, this process is inherently unpredictable, largely due to the variation of thickness and consistency of the paint layers. Aim for thin, even coats.

1. Apply a thin coat of white spray paint and allow it to dry for an hour. Repeat this process to create two thin coats of white, which will serve as a primer and protect the canvas if you engrave too deeply.
2. Apply an even, thin coat of yellow spray paint and let it dry for 2-3 hours before proceeding. Repeat this process with light blue, dark blue, and black. Allow the completed painting to cure for at least 12 hours.

1. Place the canvas in the laser engraver. Use painter’s tape on the back to prevent movement during the process.
2. Import the prepared image into your laser engraver software, then position and size the image to fit the canvas.

Determining the right laser settings is one of the most challenging parts of this project. While creating a test grid can be helpful, I find it minimally beneficial. Instead, I prefer to start with conservative settings and perform multiple passes.

For this project, I started with:

• Power: 25%
• Speed: 400 mm/sec

I needed three additional passes to achieve the desired result, each with:

• Power: 12%
• Speed: 400 mm/sec

I took pictures between each pass to document the progress. Use compressed air to clean dust between passes. Keep in mind that the color may change slightly once cleaned and a clear coat is applied. Avoid touching the canvas between passes to prevent shifting.

Once you're satisfied with the final product, remove it from the engraver and clean it with a damp cloth. You can even lightly rinse it off at the sink, though this method may not be suitable for all types of paint. Allow it to dry completely before applying a couple of coats of clear coat.

I decided to try the project again to illustrate how the final product can vary even when using the same paint scheme and settings. The second picture is from my other attempt.

The goal of this project was to replicate the classic design as closely as possible, but I also wanted to demonstrate that your creativity is the only limit. In the last picture, I used the same process and settings but chose a color profile of white, turquoise/coral swirl, lavender, bronze, and black. Although it looks very different from the original, I think it turned out great.