Magazine Box
I had a problem, there was a stack of partially read magazines on the floor by the head of my bed, gun magazines, popular mechanics, knife world, all sorts. This stack was constantly becoming spread across the floor and not staying where I wanted it. So, this box came into being.
You'll notice, my box has no bottom, this was because I was sitting it on the floor, and had no need for one, and it was simpler to make without it, and with no bottom, no dirt collects in there.
You'll notice, my box has no bottom, this was because I was sitting it on the floor, and had no need for one, and it was simpler to make without it, and with no bottom, no dirt collects in there.
Supplies
(sorry, I didn't get many pics for this part, forgot about it)
Supplies -
angle iron (1"x1")
1x5 board (get the nicest looking one you can find)
stain (I used dark walnut)
Polyurethane (I used a water base, high gloss)
Black spray paint (I used gloss black Pitbull, a paint much the same as Rustoleum)
copper tacks (I went with ones that were 1" long)
glue (I used liquid nails, but it doesn't matter much)
Tools -
Saw (I used a bandsaw, butyou can use a hack saw, chop saw, angle grinder with cutting disc, etc.)
Welding equipment (I used my o/a torch, but any would work as long as you can use it decently)
Drill
Sander, for stripping the scale and rust off the angle iron. (I used an angle grinder)
Orbital sander
Various other things - hammer, C clamps, pliers, drill bits, marking tools (scribe, sharpie, etc.), wirebrush, etc.
Supplies -
angle iron (1"x1")
1x5 board (get the nicest looking one you can find)
stain (I used dark walnut)
Polyurethane (I used a water base, high gloss)
Black spray paint (I used gloss black Pitbull, a paint much the same as Rustoleum)
copper tacks (I went with ones that were 1" long)
glue (I used liquid nails, but it doesn't matter much)
Tools -
Saw (I used a bandsaw, butyou can use a hack saw, chop saw, angle grinder with cutting disc, etc.)
Welding equipment (I used my o/a torch, but any would work as long as you can use it decently)
Drill
Sander, for stripping the scale and rust off the angle iron. (I used an angle grinder)
Orbital sander
Various other things - hammer, C clamps, pliers, drill bits, marking tools (scribe, sharpie, etc.), wirebrush, etc.
Prepping the Angle Iron.
First I cut off the torch cut ends so I would have nice clean ends.
Then you cut out all the pieces you need. 4 -14" peices, 4-12" pieces, then 4 uprights, you'll need to cut these to size depending on your wood, I used a 1x6, but my uprights needed to be just under 4" for the board length.
Now you cut notches on each piece (except the uprights). You need one notch on each piece, put all the notches on the same side of each piece.
Lastly, you take your sander and clean the scale off the angle iron, clean steel welds better.
Then you cut out all the pieces you need. 4 -14" peices, 4-12" pieces, then 4 uprights, you'll need to cut these to size depending on your wood, I used a 1x6, but my uprights needed to be just under 4" for the board length.
Now you cut notches on each piece (except the uprights). You need one notch on each piece, put all the notches on the same side of each piece.
Lastly, you take your sander and clean the scale off the angle iron, clean steel welds better.
Welding the Frames
Get everything set up for welding a frame. Make sure everything is set the way you like it, and tack weld all the corners before welding them fully.
Welding the Box
Once you have the frames welded, you need to weld up the whole box. Use clamps and a square to keep everything as straight as possible. I tacked two uprights on the top and bottom, then made sure everything was straight before tacking the other two.
Once again, make sure everything is straight, then weld the joints. I only welded on the outside, I didn't really need to weld on the inside of the joints as the box won't take much strain.
Once again, make sure everything is straight, then weld the joints. I only welded on the outside, I didn't really need to weld on the inside of the joints as the box won't take much strain.
Last Steps for the Metal Frame
last things you need to do for the metal frame is drill holes that the copper tacks will fit through, at the intervals you want them, and then paint it.
Prepping the Wood
Cut your boards to the length you want, you'll need to do some figuring to get the perfect measurements. The boards need to be the length of the side they're going in, minus the thickness of one board, and minus the thickness of the angleiron. so mine ended up being near 15" (for the 16" side) and near 11" (for the 12" side).
The way I made my boards fit into the frame, you put one in, and there is a space on one side (hidden by the angle iron) that the next board will slide into. The problem, when you hit the last board, it doesn't want to fit. So you need to bevel one side of the last board. When beveled correctly, it will fit in tightly, just needs a few smacks to fit it in.
The way I made my boards fit into the frame, you put one in, and there is a space on one side (hidden by the angle iron) that the next board will slide into. The problem, when you hit the last board, it doesn't want to fit. So you need to bevel one side of the last board. When beveled correctly, it will fit in tightly, just needs a few smacks to fit it in.
Wood Finishing
I sanded all the boards to 220 before finishing them. Then I made them look nice. I put on a coat of stain, and while it was still wet, singed the wood with a torch. Then gave them several more coats till they were the darkness I wanted.
Then, to finish it off, I gave each board 3-4 coats of highgloss polyurethane.
Then, to finish it off, I gave each board 3-4 coats of highgloss polyurethane.
Assembly
Assembly is fairly straightforward. Take the glue, and put a bead in the corners of the frame, all the way around. Slide in the boards, and hammer in the copper nails. Then when your done, fill with magazines and display proudly.