Micrometer Case
Leaving a Micrometer loose inside a drawer is like asking for trouble. Other tools could slide/roll over and bump into the mic causing a loss in precision (a large enough tool) or chip away the carbide on the anvil and spindle. New Micrometers come with a case or box but most of mine have been picked up used and have lost their cases to time.
A recent purchase of a depth Micrometer gave me the ideal of how to make cases for my 6 or so loose Micrometers.
Aside from Micrometers these types of cases could be modified to fit any tool.
Update: Added a new cover picture.
A recent purchase of a depth Micrometer gave me the ideal of how to make cases for my 6 or so loose Micrometers.
Aside from Micrometers these types of cases could be modified to fit any tool.
Update: Added a new cover picture.
The Tools and Material
To successfully complete this case you will need the following tools:
*Plunge Router
*Router Bits, at least a 1/4 inch flute cutter
*Saw
*Ruler
*Pencil
*Scribe
*Combination square or similar
*Assortment of drills
*Power drill
You will also need the following materials to build the box:
*A appropriately sized board for the top and bottom
*Scrap wood
*Hinges
*Clasp or Magnets
Take your board and with a pencil roughly sketch the bottom perimeter of the box. Now using your saw cut up the board. I used a miter saw and made sure to cut all four sides so that they were all smooth and the box would turn out square.
Check that the tool still fits inside of the cut piece.
*Plunge Router
*Router Bits, at least a 1/4 inch flute cutter
*Saw
*Ruler
*Pencil
*Scribe
*Combination square or similar
*Assortment of drills
*Power drill
You will also need the following materials to build the box:
*A appropriately sized board for the top and bottom
*Scrap wood
*Hinges
*Clasp or Magnets
Take your board and with a pencil roughly sketch the bottom perimeter of the box. Now using your saw cut up the board. I used a miter saw and made sure to cut all four sides so that they were all smooth and the box would turn out square.
Check that the tool still fits inside of the cut piece.
Set Up Clamps and Guides
Place the bottom on a work bench or large board you will not be afraid to drive nails or screws into. Using some scrap wood clamp around the piece so that it will not move when you are routing it. Make sure that the scraps you use are the same or a smaller thickness so that they will not interfere with the router. Also make sure the screws/nails don't hit the router base.
Now position the tool onto the base and using a pencil roughly trace around said tool. Remove tool and using a combination square mark out the strait cuts. This tool only produces on going down the spindle and sleeve.
Measure you router to determine the dimension of the routers base. That is the dimension from the cutter to the outside edge. Mine was 3 inches. This way I can setup a guide 3 inches from my strait cut. This makes a better looking recess
Now position the tool onto the base and using a pencil roughly trace around said tool. Remove tool and using a combination square mark out the strait cuts. This tool only produces on going down the spindle and sleeve.
Measure you router to determine the dimension of the routers base. That is the dimension from the cutter to the outside edge. Mine was 3 inches. This way I can setup a guide 3 inches from my strait cut. This makes a better looking recess
Route
Choose a router bit that will accommodate the tools diameter/dimensions. Depending on the type of bit you may need to use a foster bit of the same size to start a plunge hole. Now go to town on the strait cuts using the guide. Take small plunges about 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch. I used a hardwood, cherry, so I had to take less sometimes. The burn marks shows where I grew impatient and took a deeper plunge.
After you finish the strait cutting remove your guide. Now it's time for free hand cuts. I chose a 1/4 inch spiral flute bit. Again I took small plunges. A steady hand and patience will get you through this part of the routing.
After you think you are finished check to make sure the tool fits and that there are no clearance issues on the top. Slide a flat piece of wood across the top to see if anything is sticking up above.
After you finish the strait cutting remove your guide. Now it's time for free hand cuts. I chose a 1/4 inch spiral flute bit. Again I took small plunges. A steady hand and patience will get you through this part of the routing.
After you think you are finished check to make sure the tool fits and that there are no clearance issues on the top. Slide a flat piece of wood across the top to see if anything is sticking up above.
Top
Find and cut a piece for the top. Try to make it from the same type of wood so that it will match nicely. I had some leftover from my original piece and used that. As with the bottom I made sure to square up all sides.
The top piece I used was the same thickness as the bottom. To me it looked odd as a top. I tried to find a thinner piece of cherry but to no avail. To help make it seem thinner I took a 1/8 inch round router bit and went along the outside of the top. This give it a shorter appearance and adds to the overall look.
Sand any rough edges and the inside routed parts.
The top piece I used was the same thickness as the bottom. To me it looked odd as a top. I tried to find a thinner piece of cherry but to no avail. To help make it seem thinner I took a 1/8 inch round router bit and went along the outside of the top. This give it a shorter appearance and adds to the overall look.
Sand any rough edges and the inside routed parts.
Hinge and Clasp
I picked up a set of hinges and some fancy clasps from the hard ware store. I got 1" by 1
brass hinges and small brass clasps, i forget the name and dimensions.
Install the hinges as you see fit. I placed mine 1/2 inch in from each end in the back. I tried to place the worst looking side in back and got lucky enough that one of the random nail holes was covered up. I don't know where that came from.
I found it easier to place the top hinges on first. Line up hinge where you want it, punch hole with scribe and using a small drill bit (1/16 inch) drill a pilot hole. Then screw in and repeat for the next hole and hinge. Then with the top done it was easy to locate the hinge screw holes for the bottom.
The latch was done in a similar manner.
brass hinges and small brass clasps, i forget the name and dimensions.
Install the hinges as you see fit. I placed mine 1/2 inch in from each end in the back. I tried to place the worst looking side in back and got lucky enough that one of the random nail holes was covered up. I don't know where that came from.
I found it easier to place the top hinges on first. Line up hinge where you want it, punch hole with scribe and using a small drill bit (1/16 inch) drill a pilot hole. Then screw in and repeat for the next hole and hinge. Then with the top done it was easy to locate the hinge screw holes for the bottom.
The latch was done in a similar manner.
Done
That's it. You should now have a nice case for your tool.
Using my engraving machine I placed the name and the measurement range on top so that I will be able to easily identify which Micrometer is which.
The second case is a graduation gift for a friend of mine. The inscription says, "A Micrometer to measure growth." It's sort of a short joke.
Using my engraving machine I placed the name and the measurement range on top so that I will be able to easily identify which Micrometer is which.
The second case is a graduation gift for a friend of mine. The inscription says, "A Micrometer to measure growth." It's sort of a short joke.