Orchid Made From Sheet Metal - Steel Garden Art Sculpture

I made this large format Orchid originally as a test piece but liked it so much I will be making lots of them and adding them to a stem for a garden art statement piece.

The orchid is made from 3mm thick sheet metal scrap, but you could use thinner gauge metal, even soda cans.

I love the rusted look so went with the sheet metal to let it rust over time.

The size of this orchid is 8" (20.3cm) wide x 6" (15.24) high x 2" (5cm) deep

The tools /supply list:

• Scrap sheet metal or soda cans
• Steel rod for the stem
• Stencil (which is provided)
• liquid chalk to mark out your pattern
• plasma cutter ( UNIMIG VIPER PLASMA CUT 40) if using sheet metal or tin snips if using soda cans
• Air sander to remove waste from the back side of petals due to plasma cutting
• Air compressor
• Mig welder (we use Cigweld Mig / stick ) - however if you did not have a welder you could use JB Original Coldweld.
• Welding helmet (not needed if not using a welder or plasma cutter)
• Welding gloves (not needed if not using a welder or plasma cutter)
• welding apron (not needed if not using a welder or plasma cutter)
• respirator (not needed if not using a welder or plasma cutter)
• Bolle high impact sphere head gear and clear visor (for grinding and drilling metal)
• Hammer
• Anvil
• MAP - Pro brazing torch
• Sealer - Rust-Oleum crystal clear gloss or satin

1. Print out the template provided to the desired size and cut the pieces out - I cut mine out of thick plastic (Acetate) as I use the template a lot.
2. Select your scrap metal and trace around the shape with a chalk pen (easy to rub off if you make a mistake)
3. I marked a "T" for Top on my pieces also so I knew what way they were meant to go after I cut them out.
4. I will do another instructable regarding attaching leaves which is also on your template.

1. Preparing to plasma cut your piece - Ensure you are in a ventilated area, and using all protective equipment (welding helmet suitable for plasma cutting, welding gloves, respirator, welding jacket or apron.)
2. If using a plasma cutter, check the settings recommended for your machine depending on the thickness of steel being cut. You will need to regulate the air, amperage and travel speed.
3. When plasma cutting, correct amperage and travel speed are important and relevant to material thickness and are correct when sparks are exiting from the work piece. If sparks are spraying up from the work piece there is insufficient amps selected or the travel speed is too fast.
4. Cut out your pieces.
5. If you do not have a plasma cutter and have chosen to use soda cans or very thin metal, cut out your pieces with tin snips, wear gloves as the edges will be sharp. You can smooth the edges carefully with sandpaper.

1. I use a SHINANO 50mm Micro Disc Sander SI2201 - Air sander to remove waste from the back side of petals due to plasma cutting. I use a 40 grit 50mm pad to also smooth the edges. I then give the pieces a quick hit with a 80 grit 50mm flappy disc.
2. If you did not use a plasma cutter to cut out your pieces and have chosen to use soda cans or very thin metal, You can smooth the edges carefully with sandpaper, wear gloves as the edges will be sharp.

1. I started with petal number 1, and holding and securing the petal on the anvil with my left hand (I am right handed) I used a heavy hammer to shape the petal into the desired shape. All four points of the petal number one were shaped to curve forward.
2. The other petals were shaped in the same way. I did have to use heat from the MAP torch to persuade the bigger petals, but it did not take much to shape them slightly forward also.
3. If using soda cans you will be able to easily shape the petals with your hands. (I will do another instructable making an orchid out of soda cans)

1. Again using the MAP torch I have heated Petal number 3 (back petal) to apply colour to the steel.
2. Place the petal to be heat coloured onto concrete, some bricks or steel bench. ( we have a small forge that we use, what ever you put it on it needs to be non flammable and able to resist intense scorching heat.
3. You need to be careful heating as the colour change happens quickly and as soon as it starts to turn a colour remove the heat then reheat to achieve desired colour. The colour changes go though a beautiful gold, purple to blue.
4. Once you have achieved the colour you want, remove with a pair of pliers as this steel will be scorching hot, or leave to cool down before handling. (Please be aware that the steel will retain the heat for some time)
5. The heat coloured steel is very easily scratched as the colour is just surface colour so be careful when handling for the next steps. You will notice that I predrilled the hole into this petal before I heat coloured so as not to scratch the surface.

1. If welding drill a 6 mm hole (or smaller if your pieces are smaller than the ones I have made) through the centre of all your pieces.
2. Ensure that you secure the petal being drilled in a vice or a clamp. Do not hold the piece with your hand as it is likely to spin on the drill bit and will cut your hand.
3. Once all the holes are drilled, layer the pieces ontop of each other Layer 3 at the back then place layer two, then finally layer one at the front.
4. For step 5 prepare: Ensure you are wearing all protective equipment (welding helmet, welding apron/jacket, welding gloves, respirator)
5. Set your welder to the correct settings for the thickness of steel that you are welding and fill the drilled hole with weld
6. If using soda cans and not welding, put the pieces together using JB coldweld. (ensure you mix this product correctly and to product instructions)
7. To protect the petal that has been heat colour spray with a metal sealer

Have fun making this piece, I will post another instructable regarding making a flower spike of orchids and how to attach the leaves provided on your template, keep an eye out for it.

Thankyou for taking the time to read this instructable, would love to see your orchid when you make one.