"Pennywise" Crochet and Felted Plush Inspired by Stephen King's "IT"

"Nobody likes a clown at midnight."

-Stephen King

Hello Everyone! I hope everyone is excited for this year's spooky season and are embracing the pleasant yet disturbing feelings that come around every fall. For me, Halloween is great because of the elaborate costumes but especially the freaky films that you get to enjoy all month long.

The obvious of those film choices would be one of Stephen King's masterpieces, and for good reason. King's movie "IT" is my utmost favorite, and being a big fan of storytelling in general, I appreciate the "story behind the story" and how he manages to make it not only about a killer clown terrorizing the kids in Derry, but also about unity and how going it alone just doesn't cut it for them.

What is possibly even more interesting is the inspiration behind this thrilling tale. I will go ahead and give a warning to anyone who isn't comfortable with discussing the clown "uprising" of 2016 (and similar topics) and how this relates to the inspiration behind this film.

Known as "coulrophobia", the fear of clowns did not just pop up out of nowhere, but it isn't simple to pinpoint exactly where it came from. It is suggested by many that this fear possibly came up after the evil-intentioned killings of John Wayne Gayce in the 70s. Proclaimed as "The Clown Killer" from his hobby of dressing up as Pogo the clown on weekends to entertain kids, he killed approximately 33 people, with 5 of the victims still unidentified to this day. He is also believed to have possibly caused/ "inspired" the malicious clown scares of 2016. After his conviction of these murders, he was asked while in a brief interview of sorts where he was born (as seen in this YouTube Documentary), his answer would solidify the public's belief about his state of mind: "I was born in a state of confusion..."

According to Birmingham University criminologist professor, David Wilson, in this article from "The Guardian" he says, "Clowns deliberately exaggerate the human face and cover the human face with paint so as to make the face less human," So maybe that is our fixation... Maybe it is a sort of obscurity of the human form. We can see this fear in other creatures such as Werewolves and Zombies where they are in fact a humanoid creature, but they are just "un-human" enough so that we are unsettled with their presence. They are not recognizable as a person, but they are disturbingly familiar. National Geographic seconds this belief in this post by stating that "clowns scare us because they blur the lines of looking human". Stephen King's stated that his reason for using the killer clown, "Pennywise", in his story began when he asked himself the question: what children will fear "more than anything else in the world".

So maybe there are several factors playing into this nationwide fear of clowns and malicious faces hidden behind these masks and convincing costumes, but there is no way to be sure. However, one thing is certain, if you are looking for a good scare (and a fantastic plot!) this spooky season, "IT" is a fantastic choice, and I could not recommend it anymore.

I hope you enjoy this pattern!

Let me know in the comments if you have any questions!

Experience Level:

Crochet: Intermediate/Advanced

Needle Felting: High Intermediate

Here are the supplies you will need to make Pennywise the dancing clown!

• 3.25mm Crochet hook
• Scissors
• Medium weight yarn (I used Red Heart) (In Colors: Red, White, Orange, Grey and Black)
• Yarn needle
• Felting needle
• Felting mat
• Stuffing
• A faint marker or pencil for marking the head (Optional)
• A slicker/dog brush (Optional)
• Stitch markers (Optional)
• Leather Finger Caps for Needle Felting (Optional)
• White wire or several white pipe cleaners (for balloon "string")
• Hot glue gun & hot glue sticks
• Hair product (Optional)
• Masking tape (Optional)
• An abundance of sewing pins (optional for advanced crocheters)
• 3Small and 2large craft puff balls (In red)

Stitches & Terms you will need to know:

• Single Crochet (Sc)
• Decrease (dec)
• Increase (Inc)
• Double Crochet (dc/DC)
• Half-Double Crochet (Hdc/HDC)
• Slip Stitch (slst)
• FLO (front loops only)
• BLO (back loops only)

• Also know the difference between a single crochet increase and a half double/double crochet increase.



Warning: This is meant as a decoration or prop only! Because of the needle felting additions to this project, it is not strong enough to be used as a kid's toy. Also, the pattern itself may be frustrating to those who are not familiar with the techniques regularly used in this pattern (including some of the shapes you must make while needle felting) so I would not suggest it to anyone who is not yet familiar with these advanced strategies (the crochet is the simplest part -although still intermediate- it is mostly the needle felting that would be the big challenge).

Note: Beside most of the steps there is the letter "M" and a number. The number indicates how many you will make of that piece. Also, pattern rows will NOT have the number of stitches you should have at the end of each row because this pattern includes a separation of one piece while crocheting so this number will vary. The important thing to remember is that as long as the (legs for example are separated while crocheting) pieces you are working on are visually similar in width to one another, everything will look perfectly fine. If you have an issue with this part of the problem, please let me know in the comments (not through direct messaging because it will take me much longer to see it) and I will help you figure it out! :) Generally, if you have crocheted 3D shapes before and are fairly experienced in this type of crochet this should come quite naturally.

Please take a look at the note (under supplies) before starting this pattern.

In your white yarn,

Row 1: 6 Sc in a MR

-Place your stitch marker-

Row 2: *Inc* around the whole row

Row 3: *Sc1, Inc* around the whole row

Row 4: *Sc2, Inc* around the whole row

Row 5: *Sc3, Inc* around the whole row

Row 6: *Sc4, Inc* around the whole row

Row 7: *Sc5, Inc* around the whole row

Row 8: *Sc6, Inc* around the whole row

Row 9: *Sc7, Inc* around the whole row

Row 10-16: Sc 7 whole rows

Row 17: *Sc 7, Dec* around the whole row

Row 18: *Sc 6, Dec* around the whole row

Row 19-23: Sc 5 whole rows

Row 24: *Sc 5, Dec* around the whole row

Row 25: *Sc 4, Dec* around the whole row

Row 26: *Sc 3, Dec* around the whole row

Row 27: *Sc 2, Dec* around the whole row

-Stuff-

Row 28-31: Sc 4 whole rows

Fasten off, leave a long tail for later sewing and then be sure to stuff the neck as well. Then, take a lightly colored marker (preferably light grey) and mark the face with a vertical line down the middle, a horizontal line in the middle of the line you just made, and then position and draw where exactly you want the eyes to go. The circle should be around the size of a penny or dime (you can trace one onto the face if that helps).

This will be one of the longest steps during this project and personally for me it was the most tedious. For the hair, specifically. Keep in mind you will need almost an entire skein of orange yarn to make the hair, so be prepared to use up this yarn entirely if need be.

The Hair: (Note the red drawing for the hairline in the photo above)

(Photos 20-23 )

1. You will need to take your orange medium weight acrylic yarn and find a flat, movable surface such as a book that you can wrap it around. Wrap as many times as you'd like in a vertical or horizontal positioning (I wrapped each bundle around 20 or so times) and then cut your yarn.
2. Now, take your scissors and cut straight in the middle of this bundle. This will create a much longer bunch of yarn that is NOT connected in a loop. After bundling your yarn and making sure the ends meet as closely similar as possible, tie one of the ends in a tight knot.
3. Now, you can take your dog/slicker brush and slowly and carefully brush out the ends of this bundle while working your way up (from the end furthest away from the knot) while positioning it against a hard and stable surface (be sure that you are using something that you are willing to have scratched up and that doesn't have anything that flakes off of the surface as this will dirty up the look of your "hair")
4. Once you have brushed out about 2 or 3 inches of soft, fluffy looking "hair", then cut your yarn at its base (cut it closest to the side that hasn't been brushed out) then use a small rubber band or hair tie to hold it together for later use. You will need to make a bunch of these (the number varies depending on how much yarn you have in each bundle) to cover the entire head and hairline.
5. Take each bundle and press it up against the head where you want the hairline to be. Then carefully poke the cut end of the bundle into the crochet stitches on the head. Do this until the head has no bald patches and it is covered thoroughly in hair.
6. Last but not least you will cut his hair into the iconic 3-point shape. Considering you already drew a hairline, this might not even need to be done, just give it a trim. After that trim, you will (optionally) spray the hair product that you are using lightly onto the hair and shape it into the 3 points with your hands as exemplified by the final photo. For the hair product I listed under the instructions you may want to leave it to dry overnight, as it can take a while to dry sometimes, and you need to be sure it is all secure.

The Eyes:

(Photos 1-11 & 13-14)

1. With your bright yellow yarn fluff (you will need to have brushed this out before hand in each of the colors except grey) grab a small bundle (about the size that could fit on a quarter) and place it over the eye circle you drew. You can pin this in place, or you can just hold it in place, (just be aware that you will be using your needle felting needle and poking very closely to your hand!) then you will take your needle and poke the fluff into the edges of your drawn circle. This doesn't have to be perfect, and most mistakes can be corrected. After you get all of the edges "tucked in" you will poke in the rest of the middle of the circle. This is less definite and there are very few mistakes that can be made since you already made the border of this shape.
2. Next, you will take your orange yarn and do a very similar process to step one, but it will be without a traced circle and inside the eye itself. You can see this in the photos above. After the black circle (the pupil) is complete (this will be the same as the steps for the orange circle you just made but it will be slightly smaller as shown in the final photo), you can add a small white dot in the bottom right corner between the black and yellow.
3. The masking tape shown in the photos is optional and I just used it to eyeball (pun intended) the placement of the brow. For the brow, you will take a large-ish (about the thickness of your thumb) roll of white fluff and pin it or place in above the eye. For an evil look you will want to pin it so that the part closest to where the nose would be is the lowest and the part furthest away from the nose placement (and closest to where the ear would be) will be the highest. However, make sure while you're doing this the white fluff stays ON the eye. After pinning or positioning, you can poke and layer the white fluff as shown above so that it is 3D.
4. This step is similar to step 3, but you will be making a much smaller black roll of fluff to add underneath the eye and give it a darkened look.

The Nose:

(Photos 15-19 )

1. Take your white fluff and between the eyes (just below the top of the brows) begin making a sort of "ramp" leading down about an inch (with the taller side being on the lowest part of the face you're working on) as exemplified in the photos above.
2. Then, you will take your dark red yarn and start a small circular pile of fluff on the end of the ramp (the highest point) to form the red nose. Layer it so that it covers the entire white fluff that you just made (meaning it covers the edges).
3. Then, as your last step, you will use your needle (with no fluff positioned this time) and poke up into the nose on either side to create the cavities that will be the nostrils.

The Mouth & Red Lines Over the Eyes:

(Photo 12)

1. Use your dark red yarn fluff to make a soft-edged upside-down triangle where the mouth should be. This placement will be up to you to decide but if you need some guidance, I placed it only a few rows away from the neck, so it is fairly close to the underneath of the nose.
2. Use two thin lines of dark red fluff to make a sideways "U" shape on either side of the mouth as shown in the main photo above.
3. Roll up two very thin (about the width of a pencil) lines of dark red yarn (about 2" long each).
4. Place these two lines (individually) over the eyes as shown above and poke into place with your needle felting needle.

The Face:

(Photos 24-25)

1. For the face you will simply be taking white yarn fluff and roughly covering the face in it by needle felting mainly just to cover the pencil/ marker markings you made in the beginning.

How To: Hair Strands & Yarn Fluff

(Photos 26-28)

1. Follow the photos above to make yarn fluff and brushed out yarn hair.

In your off-white yarn,

Chain 25 Stitches

Connect the chain together as shown above.

Row 1: In the 3rd chain from the hook, *Dc 4* in each stitch around (This will quadruple the number of stitches you started with)

Row 2: *Dc 3* in each stitch around (this will triple the number of stitches you had at the end of row 1)

Fasten off and cut a long tail of yarn for later sewing.

This step will require no crocheting and is based only off of the shaping and trimming of the white fluff.

1. As seen in the photos above, start by taking a small bundle of fluff and placing it on you felting mat.
2. Shape (by poking it into the mat with the needle) the fluff into an oval and flip it (by picking it up off of the mat and flipping it over) occasionally so it doesn't get stuck.
3. Take the oval off the mat and trim it into the shape of the ear as shown above. You can also just trim it into a finer oval than before,both work!

Note: The body, skirt and legs (excluding the feet) are all one piece so each step will be dependent on the last and there will be no sewing in-between these steps. They are simply separated like this so that it is easily understood that the body has 3 main components to it and each part is very different from the last.

In your grey yarn,

Row 1: 6 Sc in a MR

-Place your stitch marker-

Row 2: *Inc* around the whole row

Row 3: *Sc1, Inc* around the whole row

Row 4: *Sc2, Inc* around the whole row

Row 5: *Sc3, Inc* around the whole row

Row 6: *Sc4, Inc* around the whole row

Row 7: *Sc5, Inc* around the whole row

Row 8-17: Sc 10 whole rows

Move on to "Skirt" step below (still on the same piece)

Row 18: IN FLO (seen in "stitches & terms") *Dc Inc* around the whole row

Row 19: *Hdc1* in each stitch around whole row

Note: If you'd like to go ahead and attach the 3 red, puff balls, follow the photos above and glue them on as shown (please ignore the already finished leg above, I did this pattern out of order).

Fasten off and cut a long (5 or 6 inch) tail for sewing later. Move on to step 7 using the same piece.

Start by reconnecting your grey yarn into the looks that were saved by using FLO in the previous step. You can see this in the photos above where I reconnect and create a "new" stitch to work through. It doesn't really matter where you start this stitch, just make sure you do it roughly below the original starting point (if you have lost that point just start in the middle of there you think the legs will end up, it won't mess anything up).

Row 20-23: IN BLO (using the stitches from the row where you did FLO) Sc 4 whole rows.

Separate the legs into roughly the same number of stitches straight down the middle (I eye-balled it but if you would like you can count the number of stitches on each side to make it even) as shown in the photos above and move in the SAME direction as you did with the 4 rows of body stitches.

Row 24-53: (In both loops now) In each leg (you will reconnect the yarn just as you did with the start of this piece but on the opposite side where there is still an opening for the leg) work 30 Sc rows (you will want to stuff these along the way).

Each leg should be approximately 20-24 stitches at this point (and before the 30 rows started)

After each leg you will fasten off and cut a roughly 6 to 7 inch tail for later sewing.

Note: Pay close attention to the photos for this step and how you work completely around the chain itself, this is unlike anything you have done so far in this pattern.

In your off-white or egg-shell colored yarn,

Chain 12

Row 1: *Inc 3x in the 1st stitch* (for a total of 3 stitches in that 1), Sc 9, *Inc 6x in this 1 stitch* (for a total of 6 stitches in that 1), Sc 9, Inc 1

Row 2: Inc, Sc1, Inc, Sc10, Inc, Sc2, Inc, Sc12

Row 3: Inc, Sc2, Inc, Sc12, *Inc, Sc1* x2, Inc, Sc13

Row 4: Inc, Sc2, Inc, Sc14, *Inc, Sc1* x3, Sc15

Row 5: IN BLO Sc 1 whole row

Row 6-7: (In both loops now) Sc 2 whole rows

Row 8: Sc13, *Sc2, Dec* x6, Sc6

Row 9: Sc13, *Sc1, Dec* x6, Sc6

Row 10: Sc11, *Sc2, Dec* x4, Sc5

Row 11: Sc11, *Sc1, Dec* x4, Sc5

Row 12: Sc11, *Dec* x4, Sc5

-Stuff your piece-

Row 13-20: Sc 8 whole rows

Fasten off and cut a long tail (about 6 or 7 inches) and put aside for later sewing.

The Front Part of The Shoe

1. You will start by brushing out your dark red yarn to make the fluff that you will be needle felting into the shoe. Grab a small hand full (as shown above) and place it on the end of the shoe.
2. You will be needle felting a slight "U" shape on the end of the shoe as shown above. It helps to start the needle felting by tucking in the borders of this shape first. Then you can move on to felting all of the middle, make sure you are covering all of this shape because the while will very easily show through if you leave bald spots.

The Shoelaces

1. Next, you will take a long strand of black yarn and sew it through the back (to further secure it) and to the front on one of the top corners of that "U" shape you just made. Take this strand and sew a single line crossing from one top point of the "U" shape to the other. This is the start of the shoelaces.
2. Next you will be crisscrossing your black yarn to for "X" shapes as shown above. This creates the remaining of your laces. Once you get to the top weave your yarn back through the project and cut and hide your yarn.

The Side Designs & White Spots

1. This shape will also be done in dark red but is a little less particular in shape. For this one, it will be a smooth line towards the side where the shoelaces are, and a spiky row of triangles on the other. This does NOT need to be perfect, I found it kind of looks good no matter what shape you make so don't worry about perfecting this too much.
2. Place your line of dark red fluff right up against the laces and just as before start by felting the borders of this shape. Then you can move on to the middle as shown in the photos above. Do this on either side of the laces.
3. For the white dots, you can make them any size you'd like, but I made it so that there are 2 small dots on top and 2 medium/large dots below those. I lined it roughly up with the cross-over of the laces since this is supposed to represent the small holes where the laces pull through, but as I said before, you can put them just vaugley in this area and everything will look fine.
4. For those dots you will grab a small amount of white fluff (about as much as could fit on the end of your thumb) and felt it into the desired position. Do this 4x on each side respectively.

In your grey yarn,

Row 1: 6 Sc in a MR

-Place your stitch marker-

Row 2: *Inc* around the whole row

Row 3: *Sc1, Inc* around the whole row

Row 4-18: Sc 15 whole rows

Fasten off and cut you yarn for a 5 or 6 " tail for later sewing. Stuff this piece and put aside for later.

Note: This is probably the step that needs the highest skill level of crochet in order to complete. Please have prior experience in making hands or very closely follow the pictures and written steps. I do not recommend this for beginners or very early intermediates.

Row 1: 6 Sc in a MR

-Place your stitch marker-

Row 2: *Inc* around the whole row

Row 3: *Sc1, Inc* around the whole row

Row 4-6: Sc 3 whole rows

Row 7: Inc2, Sc1, Chain 3 and connect that chain to the other side of the project leaving a gap for the creation of the thumb in-between (roughly 7 stitches in this gap).

Thumb: (Working off of row 7 on the hand)

Row 1-3: (Now working only on the thumb) Sc 3 whole rows

Row 4: Dec2 and fasten off leaving a 2 to 3 inch tail for later sewing

The Pointer Finger: (working off row 6- meaning away from the thumb- on the hand)

Note: At this point you should have the base of the hand, the thumb jutting out the side, and a large gap still waiting to be crocheted at this point.

• To start, connect some yarn and form a new stitch to hold on your hook (just as you did with the start of the legs) in the corner where the thumb is, this will help you start your new finger. Now, crochet 1 whole row so that the thumb sits lower than the rest of the fingers... now you can start the pointer (pattern below).

Row 1: Sc2, connect to the other side (about 2 or 3 stitches away from its base)

Row 2-7: Sc 6 whole rows (ONLY on the pointer finger)

Fasten off with a 2 to 3 inch yarn tail and move on to the next finger (middle) below...

The Middle Finger: (Now working off row 7 from the hand because of that extra row we did after the thumb)

• Connect your yarn just as you did for the pointer finger (except now you're starting from the corner of the pointer instead of the thumb) and create a stitch just as before.

Row 1: Sc2, connect to the other side (about 2 or 3 stitches away from its base) 

Row 2-8: Sc 7 whole rows (ONLY on the middle finger)

Fasten off and cut a 2 to 3 inch tail of yarn for later.

Note: The middle finger is the tallest (by one row) and the pinky is the shortest (by 2 rows)

-Stuff your piece-

The Pinky Finger: (Still off of row 7)

• Connect your yarn once again just as before but this time do it in the corner of the middle finger.

Row 1: Sc2, connect to the other side (about 2 or 3 stitches away from its base) 

Row 2-5: Sc 4 whole rows (ONLY on the pinky finger)

Fasten off and cut a 2 to 3 inch tail of yarn for later.

You are now done with the fingers for this hand, put this piece aside for later sewing.

In your white yarn,

Chain 20 stitches

Connect the chain together as shown above.

Row 1: Ch 2, then *Dc3* in each stitch around the whole row (this should triple your stitch count)

Fasten off and cut your tail about 4 to 5 inches long. Put aside for later sewing.

In your grey yarn,

Chain 20 stitches

Connect the chain together as shown above.

Row 1: Ch 2, then *Dc3* in each stitch around the whole row (this should triple your stitch count) - connect the last stitch to the previous first stitch to continue this circle-

Row 2: *2Hdc* in each stitch around the whole row (doubling your stitch count from the end of row 1)

Fasten off and cut your tail about 4 to 5 inches long. Put aside for later sewing.

Note: remember that if you are double crocheting and you see an increase that means you are using a double crochet increase, NOT a single crochet increase.

In your grey yarn,

Ch 20

Row 1: *Dc1, Inc* around the whole row

Row 2: *Inc* around the whole row

Row 3: *Dec, Dc1* around the whole row

Row 4: *Dec* around the whole row

Row 4 will have returned you back to your original number of stitches so that both the bottom and top of this puffy tube-like thing for the sleeve fits on the arm perfectly.

Fasten off (Slst the last stitch since these are bigger, looser stitches than your average sc) and cut your tail to about 6 or 7 inches long. Put to the side for later sewing.

Follow the photos above if you are having a hard time understanding my explanation OR watch this video by "Wylde & Plumb" that shows you visually how this process works. Keep in mind this is not my video or the specific instructions for this step, it is just a suggestion so that you have a visual on what is going on here if you've never done this before. Also, be sure to leave a like on their video! It really helped me in understanding this process and I hope it helped you too!

1. Start with 2 strands of 17" (each) dark red yarn.
2. Twist your yarn tightly together, you may need to tape down one end as exemplified in the provided video.
3. Fold this twisted yarn over itself and watch it create a twisted rope look!

After completing 1 rope you can put a sewing pin through the end to hold both sides together temporarily until you decide to glue it to the arm.

In your red yarn,

Row 1: 6 Sc in a MR

-Place your stitch marker-

Row 2: *Inc* around the whole row

Row 3: *Sc1, Inc* around the whole row

Row 4: *Sc2, Inc* around the whole row

Row 5: *Sc3, Inc* around the whole row

Row 6-11: Sc 6 whole rows

Row 12: *Sc3, Dec* around the whole row

Row 13: *Sc2, Dec* around the whole row

Row 14: *Sc1, Dec* around the whole row

Put/ fold the wire end (or pipe cleaner if you chose to use that instead) inside the balloon and stuff for stability

Row 15: *Inc* around the whole row

Fasten off and cut a 6 to 7 inch tail. Use this tail to wrap it around the end (between rows 13 and 15) so that it looks like your balloon is tied. Then weave the remaining tail back into the yarn and cut your tail so that it is no longer visible.

For this step, you will need the hand you made (I did it on the left hand, but it should work on either side), the balloon with the wire attached, your hot glue gun, and the rest of that arm you are using.

1. You can start by pinning the hand to the arm as shown above (make sure the thumb is facing the right way).
2. Then you will need to bury the wire into the hand and through the arm through an opening (preferable higher up in the finger) on the pointer finger (the one closest to the thumb).
3. Then you will take your hot glue gun and put a glob of glue on the thumb end and press it into the pointer as shown in the photos above.

Firstly, pin the pieces together as shown in the first photo above. Be sure to keep track of those needles and pins, they are so easy to lose!

Follow the instructions below using the pictures as your guide. Know that for this pattern (since it is a higher level of crochet) you will need to be very, very familiar with the process of sewing an Amigurumi (crochet plush) piece together. If you are not familiar or just need some practice to refresh your memory before starting, I highly suggest this video by "Planet June" (Note this is not my video and is simply a suggestion) for a visual on this process. While you're there leave a like on their video, they do amazing work!

1. (Photos 2-4) Firstly, sew on the neck ruffle (made in step 3) by taking your tail yarn of that piece and weaving it back and forth through the neck. After you have almost ran out of your tail yarn length, cut and hide the end (this will be the same for sewing on every piece).
2. (Photo 5) Then, with that one piece you just attached together, sew it to the top of the body. The neck may be a bit flimsy at first, and that is okay, just be sure to use up all of your tail yarn if that is the case.
3. (Photos 6-9) Sew the hands/ harms together as shown above in the photos and as represented in the main photo in the introduction.
4. (Photos 10-12) Continuing on the partially completed hands/arms, sew the top together as shown in the photos above. Be sure that this vertical line that's made on the top after sewing (as shown in photo 11) is lined up with the positioning of the thumb.
5. (Photos 13-14) Sew the now completed arms onto the body. Be sure that the arm with the balloon in facing forward and now down beside the body (as shown with the other arm).
6. (Photos 15-16) Sew the tops of the leg puffs onto the very top of the leg underneath the skirt so the gap between these two pieces are fully hidden. No need to sew the bottom portion of the leg puff, since the top will now hold it in place.
7. (Photos 17-20) Follow the visual steps above to sew the legs and leg ruffles onto the bottom-most part of the legs. Make sure that the shoes are securely placed over the leg before sewing so the ankle area is not floppy and so he doesn't fall over.

Congrats! You have completed making your very own "Pennywise" plush!

I hope you enjoyed this pattern, please let me know any thoughts or questions you may have in the comments below! If you make this project, please share a photo, I'd love to see what you've made!

Here is a behind the scenes "IT" video on YouTube that I just thought was really cool and would be neat to add in, and considering you made it to the end of this pattern, you'll probably think is cool too! It's really neat to see how little of it that was seen in the movie was actually CGI, a lot of it was makeup and props!

Have a great day everyone! :)