RC Boat PVC Storage Rack

Like a lot of us I tend to get carried away with my hobbies. Remote control "toys" have always been a favorite of mine, and I have everything from RC helicopters to an RC underwater drone. I live on the waterfront so naturally RC boats and float planes are in my inventory. Recently my boat inventory increased and was taking up a lot of valuable shelf space in my “toy” room. So instead of each boat sitting side by side in their own stands I decided to go vertical.This stand is completely adjustable for the number of boats it will hold as well as the size of each boat.

This stand can also be adjusted to accommodate more that just boats. If you also have cars, trucks, helicopters, etc... look at including those as well. 

1. (1) PVC Pipe Cutter (under $10) not required but highly recommended
2. (1) PVC primer *
3. (1) PVC cement *
4. (??) PVC Pipe (3/4" schedule 40)
5. (20) PVC 90' elbows (as pictured)
6. (8) PVC Tees (as pictured)
7. (??) Foam pipe insulation
8. Rags for cleanup during assembly

Note: * We are not building anything that needs to be water or airtight so you can go easy on the amount of PVC primer and cement that you use.

Once you know how big you are building this thing you can figure out how much pipe and how many connectors you will need.

Inventory your collection. The dimensions for the base of the stand will be determined by the boat with the widest beam (width). The dimensions given here are based on the Proboat Sonicwake V2 (SWV2) and the Traxxas Spartan SR (TSSR). Those are two extremely popular "fast" boats and are similar in size. Both have 36" long hulls (does not include running gear) but the SWV2 is 1 1/2" wider with an 11" beam to the TSSR's 9.5" beam.

** Adjust dimensions to your preference **

In my collection the SWV2 has the widest beam (11") so I built my base to accommodate that boat first.

For other dimensions determine where you want the hull to rest on the supports. When measuring you need to consider:

1. The amount of offset created by the 90' elbow and Tee connections
2. The thickness of the foam pipe insulation
3. Leaving enough space on sides to handle the boats comfortably

In my case the horizontal base pA (part A) length is 12".

Parts Needed:

1. two 12" pieces of PVC pipe (pA)
2. four 90' elbows (p1)

If you have never worked with PVC pipe before, check out the "Working with PVC" section at the end first.

Assembly:

a. Install ONE 90' elbow (p1) to ONE end of each 12" pipe (pA)

1. the angle does not matter for the first elbow - it certainly does for the second one

b. Review the pictures!

c. Install second 90' elbow (p1) on each 12" pipe (pA)

1. ensure the second elbow is at the same angle as the previously installed elbow (pic 2 above)

To add the Tees, we are going to first add fitting connectors (pE). I prefer to add these into one component at a time. This allows me to wipe off excess glue on each joint so that a gap is not created.

Parts Needed:

1. Four fitting connectors (pE)
2. Four Tees (p2)
3. wipes

Assembly:

a. Add one fitting connector to each of the four 90' elbows (see picture 1)

b. Add one Tee to each of the four 90' elbows

1. ensure the elbow and Tee are level with each other (see picture 2)

When completed you should have two pieces as in picture 3.

We are now going to add the elbows that will hold the support bars the boat(s) will rest on. This needs to be done with care to ensure the entire structure is (and remains) square and level.

Note: The support bars can be whatever length suits your needs. I may case, with 36" boats, I went with 13" support bars.

Parts Needed:

1. four fitting connectors (pE)
2. four 90' elbows (p1)
3. two support bars (pC)

Tools Needed:

1. carpenters square - anything with a perfectly square 90' corner that is large enough to be in contact with three corners of the stand
2. bubble level - size doesn't matter, needed to check vertical level

Assembly:

DRY FIT EVERYTHING BEFORE YOU GO NEAR THE CEMENT

These next few angles are critical to keeping the entire rack square and level. Put all the parts in place (WITHOUT CEMENT). Then ONE AT A TIME we will cement the joints. As each joint is cemented you will verify that everything remains square and level.

REMEMBER WE ARE DRY FITTING THIS

1. insert one fitting connector into each Tee (see picture)
2. actually these can be cemented in place at this time (just the 1/2 going into the Tee)
3. press one 90' elbow on to each connector (see picture for correct orientation)
4. insert support bars (ensure they are seated all the way into the elbows)

With everything dry fit use, the square and level to get things lined up correctly. You will need to do this every time we cement each individual piece.

So, once everything is square and level

1. pull apart ONE connection (for example, pull one 90' elbow off its fitting connector)
2. apply primer and cement to that connection and be ready to check for square and level
3. press the 90' elbow back onto the fitting connector AND CHECK FOR SQUARE AND LEVEL.

You will repeat that process for all remaining connections that have not been cemented yet. And YOU WILL check for square and level every time you pull a connection apart and cement it.

It is easy to get things out of square or level while you pull things apart and put them back together. If things are not square and level when that cement sets - they never will be.

But the good news is, when you finish you are done with the base and have the supports in place for the first boat. Cut some foam pipe insulation to size and slip it on the support bars. Now your boat can rest comfortably.

You can add space for more boats by installing risers in the top of the base Tees and then build another level as above.

IMPORTANT:

DRY FIT all parts for a new level BEFORE using any cement. This allows you to

1. verify you have all the parts
2. verify all the parts fit correctly
3. verify that the new level is at the correct height
4. verify the new level is the correct width

Keep all the dry fit components together (assembled) and we will cement one connection at a time.

The angles of the tees and elbows are set by the "support bar" - ensure it is seated correctly each time it is replaced or moved during assembly.

Keep all the dry fit components together (assembled) - cement one connection at a time.

1. If the joint connectors are not already cemented into the Tees (Tees only) do so now

1. Open and cement the elbows to the tees (one joint at a time)
2. as you glue each joint reassemble everything completely
3. pay special attention to seating the support bar correctly each time - this establishes the correct angles.
4. after the elbows are cemented
5. Cement each end of the support bars (one at a time)
6. after the support bars are cemented
7. Cement the bottom of each tee to the risers

As the picture shows I have boats of assorted sizes. Which is why we start with the biggest boat and work our way up from there. No adjustment was made for the second boat, but the third and fourth required supports that were closer together.

By adding a "beam adjustment" piece of PVC pipe you can adjust the stand to fit all your boats.

The "beam adjustment" is just a piece of PCV pipe that replaces the "joint connector". So, for a boat with a smaller beam, measure where you need the horizontal supports to be. Cut four pieces of PVC pipe to length and cement those in place (after dry fitting to verify things first, of course). Just think of it as lengthening the joint connector to bring the horizontal bars closer together.

Working with PVC pipe is not difficult. You have the pipe, the fittings, the primer, the cement, and some way to cut the pipe. For cutting I highly recommend a PVC pipe cutter (see pic). These are inexpensive and their ratcheting action makes it easy to get nice, clean cuts. In lieu of PVC pipe cutters practically any type of saw can be used, just clean up the cut edges before joining them.

To add a connection (elbow, tee, etc.) to a piece of PVC pipe you will want to use

1. PVC primer *
2. PVC cement

*The PVC primer acts as a cleaning agent, softener, and catalyst to set the cement. There are some varieties of PVC cement that do not require a primer. Also, because we are not creating watertight or airtight connections, the primer is optional - although you will have to wait longer for the cement to dry on each connection.

You want to use primer and cement on the mating sides of the connection. For example, when you are adding a 90' elbow to a piece of PVC pipe, the outside surface of the pipe will mate with the inside surface of the connector. Those are the sides that you want to prime and cement.

The only big trick with PVC is that once you make a connection it is permanent. Once the cement sets, that's it, you are done. You cannot take it apart, you cannot change the angle, you cannot do anything with that joint. MAKE SURE things are lined up (square and level) BEFORE that cement cures. And to add fun to this adventure, PVC cement sets up very quickly, you only have a few seconds to get it right - or start over.

Save time and money by DRY FITTING FIRST

Dry fitting is simply putting everything together WITHOUT using any cement. Always, always, always, dry fit all the components first. This is the only opportunity you will have to locate any problems before they become permanently cemented in place.

Using the first connections in this project, the base support with its pipe and elbow connectors for an example, you will

1. Cut the PVC pipe to length
2. and then using one 90' elbow
3. apply primer and cement
4. to the outside of the PVC pipe (only the area that will be inserted into the connector)
5. to the inside surface of the connector where the pipe will be inserted
6. press the elbow connector on to the pipe (press hard enough to set the pipe all the way into the connector)
7. wipe off any excess glue immediately

Simply enough 'eh.

Yes well, that's just the first elbow and it doesn't matter what angle that connection is at. The next elbow does matter as it must be at the same angle as the first one. I accomplish this using a flat surface. As soon as you put the second elbow on, press and hold the previously installed elbow on a flat surface and make sure the newly installed elbow matches that angle. (Pic 1 & Pic 2)

Butt connecting two connectors

To join two connectors together without any PVC pipe between them is easy as well. Just use PVC pipe - say what? Cut a piece of 1" (or slightly less) of PVC pipe. That 1" piece of PVC pipe is Part E in the parts number diagram above.

Pic 3 & Pic 4 show how to use that 1" piece of PVC to create a butt connection.

Notes:

1. I install one side at a time - prime & cement 1/2 of the 1" PVC and the mating side of one of the pieces you are connecting.
2. Install the connector into that piece
3. Immediately wipe off excess glue so that it does not create a gap when you install the second piece.
4. Repeat process and install second piece
5. ensure the pieces are lined up correctly (flat surface time)
6. wipe off any excess glue

The above DOES NOT APPLY to actual use on a water or air system. It's close but in an actual system you need to ensure that each piece is primed and cemented correctly (no skimping on primer or cement). Also, twist the connection as you are making it - helps ensure complete coverage of the cement in the connection. And pre-clean (wipe off, lightly sand if needed) to remove any foreign material at the connection point. The angle of connections in actual systems is critical as well.