RvB Simmons Halo Armor

Here we have basic Mark 6 Halo armor from Halo 2 and 3. Mine was painted maroon for Simmons from Red vs Blue, but it can be painted any color, so grab your foam and knife, and lets build some armor

First and foremost come templates. I picked up mine from the RPF at this link: http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=130172

You load these .pdo's into pepakura, scale, print, and tape together any pieces that were too big for one page.

You can also decide to put together pieces to form a bigger piece, but that is personal preference

You take your templates, and trace them onto your eva foam (I used 1/4 inch foam), then you glue pieces together were they come together on the pep file. When the pieces don't line up flush or a 90 degree angle you need to cut the foam edge at the required angle by angling your knife. You can use hot glue, crazy glue, super glue, or even contact cement. Be patient with this, it took me a couple months to finish this.

In the interest of time, I took certain artistic liberties. For example I changed the foot armor to something simpler and quicker. I also omitted the back panel of the shins. These are decisions I made that changed the quality but also the time taken for the armor. Make these kinds of decisions as you go.

Don't go and paint the raw foam. The foam will only absorb the paint which mean, you apply paint, but the paint just disappears. You need to seal the foam. I used black Plasti Dip, because I had some around, easy to apply, and drys quickly. This stuff can get expensive, making Mod Podge (or a water white glue mixture) a cheaper alternative. Be wary, Plasti Dip remains flexible, whereas Mod Podge or white glue will crack when bent or stretched. More layers is always better.

Once sealed, grab a can of your preferred color and paint that sucker with at least 2 coats. But now the armor looks so brand new, never seen a battle before, but we'll fix that. Using rub'n'buff silver leaf metallic finish, put that on your finger and smear that where ever there should be some wear and tear. That mean most protruding edges, but also in random spots all around. This part may get tedious, but it's one of my favorite parts and in the end is makes so much of a difference.

These things get tricky. After making mine I found a better way of doing it. Using something mirrored like this mask: https://www.amazon.com/Disguise-No-Face-Chrome-Mask/dp/B01KGJEYDI and then putting a transparent, yellow stage gel overtop of it. Cutting the chrome mask to the shape needed is required, but some extra room can be left if being applied from the inside. Mine was then secured with hot glue.