Skateboard Wall Hanging LED Lamp

Hi. I was searching the depths of the internet for some ideas for a reading lamp for my daughter. Suddenly out of the darkness appeared a picture of a lamp made out of the old skateboard. I liked this idea, but I wasn't happy with the way that the person made the lights. He or She used a regular lamp fittings and ordinary bulbs aligned in the shape of the skateboard wheels. So, my idea was to replicate the original look of a skateboard as best as possible, with the LED wheels plus some backlight LED strip.

I'm not a skate person at all so sorry for "non-skate" naming of various board parts.

Parts:

1 skateboard (Highly recommended)

4x E14 golf light bulbs (The closes "look" of the original wheels I could find)

12V DC transformer

Main switch for a wheel lamps

Light switch for LED's + back box

LED strip

Prototyping board

Cables

Tools:

Soldering iron

Drill

Nuts and bolts

Hole cutter

Optional - workshop equipment: pillar drill & miller (helpful but can be done without it)

I started with looking inside the light bulbs, to see what surprises I'll find. I've never opened such a small LED bulbs, so electronic components on the opposite site of the LED's was something that I wasn't expecting to see. To mimic the original look of a skateboard wheel, I've planned to keep the glowing "dome" in place of wheels, and move large electronic components (resistor + capacitor) to the back of the board. This means extra wires running to and from the bulbs.

I needed just under 9mm hole for all cable, and the wheel "shaft" is around 13.5mm so I was good to go.

Knowing that I can physically fit all the cables, I've sketched probably the worst electrical diagram in history.

Plan A: First, I've grinded off a little bit of the shorter shaft to let the cables out. Then, I've tried to drill through the centre of the longer shaft, but because it was slightly curved the drill bit came out through the side.

Plan B: Made my own wheel trucks (hopefully that's the right name), using old ones as a model. I've kept the flat rectangular part (the one that's attached to the board). I've took some 1/2 inch (or 12.7mm for those that prefers using a measuring systems that wasn't based on a foot fetish of a powerful individual), and welded it together into "T" shape. On one side I've attached a thin triangle plate, right next to the short section of the pipe. For the other side, I've cut a thicker round plate with a hole cutter (35mm in my case), then inside of it I made a shallow groove on the miller (just like the original) and welded two small triangle plates on the edges along the longer rod.

I didn't put dimensions in this step, as I'm guessing that not all trucks are the same. I was trying to replicate as best as possible the original ones.

Next, I've made a hole in the trucks base where the shorter pipe ends, to allow cables reach the back of the board. On the last picture, I've tried to squeeze the cables through, to see if it's possible. No problem with one side, second was a bit tight around the middle corner.

Excuse my limited welding skills, I was doing my best. I'm happy that the visible areas are ok. Especially after the coat of a silver hammered paint.

Separate to the wheel lights, I've run an LED strip at the back of the board. I've used an aluminium frame from old and broken ceiling LED panel, mounted to two angle brackets made from scrap. I've used two 6mm bolts that replaced two outermost truck bolts, to secure the brackets to the board. I've made a "keyhole" type hole in every bracket to mount everything on the wall, and I've spaced the brackets away from the board with washers, far enough to have a clearance between the board and the wall all around. This should create a 360 degree "glow" effect from the LED strip.

After all that, I've secured the aluminium strip to the brackets with a resin glue, making sure that it's wide enough for the largest component, and 12V DC transformer, which I've attached with a strip of Velcro.

Time for a hole to fit LED strip switch/controller, and the main wheel bulbs switch. Because I was using old 250V 10A switch, removed from some obsolete equipment, I've connected everything on the bench to make sure it's all working as it should, before I drilled anything. After successful test, I've found the best position for the big LED switch/controller to be close to the center, and I made a 55mm hole in the board, and one more little hole for the smaller switch (not shown on the pictures).

Due to the fact that the main wheel light bulbs are supplied with 240V AC, and these are going to be attached to the trunks made entirely from metal, I had to make some safety arrangements.

Goal: To separate bulbs PCBs and the metal trucks by nonconductive material.

Solution: A 2mm thick offcut grey nylon sheet, 4 off cut to desired size with a 44mm hole cutter, little bit smaller than the diameter of the bulbs, and gave it a coat of the same paint as the trucks.

Plastic washers on the first picture have some round "vinyl" like texture. I've cut these from a nylon block on a lathe, but later I've swapped with ones made from the 2mm sheet.

From the examination of the bulbs circuitry, I've found that resistor is connected to the supply side, and capacitor is not connected directly after the resistor. That's why I need 4 cables to run to each light (supply after resistor, 2 as extension to capacitor legs, and neutral). This allowed me to move these components (resistor and capacitor) to the back of the board onto prototyping PCB. Once I've wiggled all cables through and soldered everything according to the probably the worst electrical diagram in the history, I gave it a go to make sure no cables were hurt during making of this step.

When assembling wheel trunks to the board, I've left some movement on the rubber joint, just like on the real board.

Then, I've glued the plastic spacers/washers to the end of the trunks using superglue.

Being a parent you don't want you kids to get injured. Well, unless you're there with the camera. I've took one extra precaution, and I've run two earth cables to each of the mounting brackets. Picture was taken during earlier stages, hence showing both connected to one end, to keep those out of the way for time being.

Following the (in)famous diagram, I've made all electrical connections. To attach the wheel bulbs base to the plastic washers, I've used clear RTV silicone adhesive/sealant, which is non conductive and can withstand high temperatures. I've also used it to secure terminals of LED strip and left some on top of the the main lights switch terminals.

After all of the above, I've tidied up the cables so everything is kept inside the frame at the back of the board.

I've never done anything similar, but I really enjoyed making this project. My daughters gave it the highest score, and I'm personally happy how it looks on the wall.

But!!! When I tested it while in production it was always during the daytime. Although, I suspected that the wheel lights might be a bit too bright, especially if you "look them straight into the eyes", with the lack of alternatives I've carried on with the project. If I could find, I'd buy those bulbs 20-30% darker, but that's the only little thing that I'd change.

Thank you