Stained Glass US Army Tank

Ok young Padawans, let's make a work of art. Of the countless millions of ways to actually create a piece of artwork, this instructable will focus on stained glass. If you're like me and you're tired of seeing the same old stained glass "things" out there, then this instructable is for you. Can a US Army Tank sculpture actually be created from stained glass? Absolutely! This project is somewhat advanced and will involve a minimum of 100 hours of work. Because of extra features, this US Army Tank took well over 200 hours to complete. If you have never worked with stained glass before, do not worry. The cutting, foiling and soldering of stained glass is actually quite easy and straightforward. Buy a single piece of glass and an inexpensive cutter and decide for yourself.

This tank design follows no specific models or countries. This project is purely symbolic of tank design from start to finish. The total finished length is about 20 inches. Your design may be larger or smaller. Every aspect of this project can and should be modified to your liking. This tank has many brass parts and does require the use of a metal lathe. However, this tank could be built entirely of stained glass. If you only have a wood lathe, just make some parts out of your favorite wood. Stained glass and an exotic wood actually sounds pretty cool!

Most if not all of the glass parts could be cut using a tile saw for a more accurate part. However, using a tile saw would be slower and messy but would produce a good part. Cutting by hand can produce a fairly accurate part and do it fast. This US Army Tank will be built by hand cutting all parts. The inside can be left empty but this version will have internal parts for an extra layer of detail. Because of the light defraction of textured glass, any detailed internal parts will be somewhat muted. However, by starting with detail the end result is a magical, mystifying internal structure when peered into.

A few things to help you along the way. Always burnish the copper foil edges for a secure fit. Try using a small dowel rod, pencil or a similar object to burnish the foil. Personally, I use the back of my fingernail for burnishing and it works just fine...for me. Use isopropyl alcohol on a cotton ball to clean up the flux as you go. Use masking tape to hold parts together before you solder. Experiment and just have fun!

So let's take a deep breath, meditate for a few minutes and start a project that will impress your friends and just might become a family heirloom. The force will definitely be with you for this instructable.

Textured Stained Glass (Green and Amber)

Dark Opaque Glass

Metal Lathe

Glass Cutter

Tile Saw (optional)

Copper Foil Self Adhesive Tape

80-100 Watt Soldering Gun or Iron

Solder

Flux

Gorilla Glue Clear Grip or any glue rated for glass

Isopropyl Alcohol (91 percent preferably)

Miscellaneous small tools

Bandaids.....You'll need them

A good design is a must if the end result needs to look good. That being said, a project like this could be built without any preliminary design work. I started with a few basic parts designed on the computer and printed them up for templates. As the tank progressed, there was less designing and more on the fly part building. There are 100's of ways to design a project like this.

The first step is to make 64 track sections (30 per side and 4 spares attached to the body)), 7/8 inch by 2 inches. These are made from a dark opaque non textured glass. Foil all 64 sections and begin to solder them together to match the track design template. Each each track section has 3 textured amber squares that will be foiled and glued into place. The copper foil is left unsoldered for a nice color contrast. Each of these squares is 5/8 of an inch and there needs to be a total of (gulp!) 192 pieces. These top squares could be omitted for a planner look but if you want detail, take the time and effort to cut and foil them.

The track drive assembly is a somewhat difficult step but worth the effort. Each wheel has an inner and outer piece with a connecting shaft. Each piece is drilled and tapped for 1/4 - 28 threads. 3/8 inch long set screws are used to connect the wheels together and to attach to the drive plate. The drive plate is made from 3/16 inch thick plate brass. Nine holes are drilled and tapped for 1/4-28 threads. The total size of each track drive assembly is about 12.5 by 3 inches. The front and back main wheels are connected with two, 7 inch long brass rods that hold the track assemblies together. The bottom of the tank can now be started.

Start with a bottom panel assembly that will fit between the track assemblies. As stated earlier, there is no right or wrong way to create and assemble any part of this tank. Please use artistic interpretation as you see fit because I certainly did.

Two fender assemblies are cut and soldered then placed over the tracks and attached by soldering to the body. The assemblies are 13.5 by 2 inches.

Each set of tracks have two layers of non textured green glass that will give the fenders solid support and at the same time provide clearance between the tracks and fenders. There are 2 layers of glass glued on the top treads. Each piece is 5/8 of an inch wide by 1-1/4 inch long. There are a total of 56 pieces and these are non foiled to remain almost invisible.

Before the body can be completed and sealed up, two shell racks are built from laminated florescent orange plexiglass. When lit from underneath, the racks give off a nice interior glow. These will be glued in place on each side of the body.

The shells are modified empty 30-30 rifle cartridges. The rim is machined away and the cartridge is sanded and polished. Brass projectiles are machined and pressed into the cartridges. Six shells are needed for each rack. As stated before, the shell size and location is purely symbolic.

Every tank needs an engine and this one is no exception. You could omit any internal detail to save time and effort. However, the internal detail makes for a great look. The engine could be built from just about anything. This engine will be built from LEGOS and two high speed medical drill units. All LEGO pieces are super glued together and spray painted gray. A few pieces are painted chrome. The drill units are glued into place and this engine is finished. When sealed inside the tank, the textured glass reveals just a hint of the detail and the look is actually mesmerizing.

16 pieces are cut, foiled and soldered to form a double thick turret spacer. This will give some separation between the body and the turret. This spacer will be glued in place.

Glass support mounts are soldered into place and a glass receiver housing is fashioned to accept the back of the barrel assembly. The barrel assembly is glued into the receiver housing and after curing, is quite rigid. Now the rest of the turret can be completed.

The back of the turret has 3/8 inch diameter brass shell tubes soldered together to form one part. The tube assembly is then glued into place. Since the tank body and turret will be sealed tight for eternity, now is a good time to insert something special into one of the shell tubes to create a personal time capsule. I only used one tube but all are available for unique items. Have fun!

The 50 caliber machine gun is 7.25 inches long and is the only moving part on the tank. Start with solid brass stock and cut the parts to your liking. Small 2-56 stainless steel button cap machine screws are used to securely fasten all parts together. Go slow when tapping threads for such small machine screws. The tap will easily break if forced. Use machine oil and back out often to remove the cuttings. Sand and polish all parts to your liking. A 1/4 inch mounting hole is drill on the bottom about 3/8 of an inch deep. This machine gun will swivel and is removable.

The front end of the tank will have a 30 caliber ball mount machine gun. After all parts are securely fastened together, the assembly is glued into position.

Design a 1-3/4 inch star and transfer to 1/16 inch thick brass plate. Cut, file, sand and polish two stars. Glue one on each side of the turret.

Cut and foil green and amber glass to form a three sided periscope. Solder two of these assemblies to form two periscopes. Carefully glue the assemblies the front of the tank body.

This top hatch and 50 caliber machine gun mount was machined from brass with a glass top. Glue this assembly to the top of the turret.

Four lift points are made from 1/8 inch thick brass and 1/8 inch brass rod. Sand each base side with a slight angle. Drill two 1/8 holes evenly spaced into each base. Form four rounded pieces from the brass rod and press into each base. Glue one lift point on each corner of the turret.

Make two exhaust vents from textured amber glass and glue into place on the back of the tank body. There are 2 layers of glass for added depth.

Whew! What a project! Total weight is about 14 pounds. Here are some photos of the finished tank. When placed on its custom light base, and turned on, it really comes to life. There are quite a few steps for this instructable. I may have omitted something or was not too clear for some steps. I apologize if that is the case. If anyone builds a stained glass army tank please send me photos of your work. May the force be with you always.