The __P4__ - Pnuematic Potato Projectile Producer

by dschwant in Outside > Backyard

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The __P4__ - Pnuematic Potato Projectile Producer

00_the_plan.jpg
32_p4_finished.JPG
Old idea with maybe a few twists that might interest others. We went for an automatic valve (cheap 24V sprinkler valve), a pressure gauge, a triggering box and a firing platform with adjustable angle. The first picture is the rendering of the 3D model. The second photo is the completed P4. The mpeg file shows how the parts decompose.

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The Plan

01_p6_the_plan_for_the_p4_plan.JPG
02_p4sp_p4_school_plan.JPG
02_1_p4_trigger_schemetic.png
02_2_p4_movie_plan_supplies_1.png
02_3_P4_supplies_2.png
02_4_p4_gun_layout_shopping_list.png
03_raw_components.JPG
The "P4" (Pnuematic Potato Projectile Producer) started as a duel project - a school project for the kids and a chance to make a documentary movie together.

I also saw this as an opportunity to start to train them how to plan and manage a project. So, the first image is our schedule and resource plan. The second one is a list of the things that could be learned from the project.

The third image is my original attempt to draw out the circuit for the trigger. I will describe it in a later step. The fourth is of our plan for making the documentary and the supplies we would need. The next is the rest of the supplies list. The next shows the design layout for the gun and the trigger box, with the parts list for the gun. The last shows the prep'd raw parts for the gun.

Chamber

09_chamber_finished.JPG
04_chamber_measure_gauge.JPG
05_chamber_drill_4_guage.JPG
06_chamber_measure_valve.JPG
07_chamber_prep_pvc.JPG
08_chamber_glue_pvc.JPG
The first step was to create the chamber. Here are the steps:

1) Measure the openning size for the pressure gauge and the valve, then drill end caps and insert them. The pressure gauge was (if I remember right) was a water pressure gauge with "1/4" fitting. I drilled the hole as if I was tapping it, then screwed it in and put a pipe fitting on the other side to hold it. The valve is a standard auto tire valve (I walked into a local tire shop and asked for one - they just warned me that they had a 120PSI limit).

2) Cut, clean and glue together the main chamber shafts with the PVC fittings.

Barrel

10_barrel_bevel.JPG
11_ram_wrap.JPG
12_ram_screw_head.JPG
13_ram_finished.JPG
14_body_finished_parts.JPG
The idea we had for the barrel was that, if it was in two pieces and culd be unscrewed, we could try different size barrels in our testing.

The main thing to do on the barrel is to bevel a sharp edge on the end of the barrel so that is cuts the potatoes down to a cylinder when you breach load them.

We also made a matching ram for loading. We used an old table leg (from a X Mart round wooden table) that already had a threaded shaft on the end. We drilled a hole in a 3/4 pvc end cap and screwed it onto the ram.

The final picture shows the completed chamber, two pieces of the barrel, the ram and the parts for the trigger and valve.

Testing

15_body_pressure_test.JPG
16_valve_auto_test.JPG
17_valve_manual_test.JPG
Once the gun parts were done, we did a pressure and valve test on it.

The initial test showed a slight leak in the pressure gauge fitting. So, I think we either epoxied the fitting or used silicon caulk.

Then we tested both the auto valve and a manual valve. The auto valve was triggered with a single 9-volt battery.

Trigger

18_trigger_plans.png
19_trigger_parts.JPG
20_trigger_layout.JPG
21_trigger_measure_component.JPG
22_trigger_face_complete.JPG
23_trigger_line_plug_layout.JPG
24_trigger_valve_tail.JPG
25_trigger_box_tail.JPG
26_trigger_plug_test.JPG
27_trigger_component_leads.JPG
28_trigger_inside_layout.JPG
29_trigger_wiring.JPG
30_trigger_close_fit.JPG
31_trigger_test.JPG
This diagram was by one of my sons showing the schemetic for the trigger, the physical layout for the box, and some ontes about our testing. The schemetic shows the design idea:

a) Three 9-volt batteries in series to provide the 24V that the circuit should safely need.
b) A power safety-switch for a two-step firing sequence (poswer up, then fire).
c) An indicator light to show when the power is on.
d) An intermittent switch for firing the valve.
e) Everything linked together on a terminal strip (all of the components have spade terminal leads).

The secret to the circuit was the diode in paralell with the firing switch. This made the light come on when it was powered-up shorting the firing switch.

Here are the construction steps:

1) Lay the trigger box components.
2) Measure where the external ones will go.
3) Drill the openings and test the fitting.
4) Add the interlocking connectors to the pig tail of the valve and the end of the trigger power cord.
5) Add leads to all of the components.
6) Wire it all together on the terminal strip.
7) Test the fit of the box.
8) test the circuit to make sure everything is flowing right.

It worked great, at least for a few weeks. It got us through the school fair and a bunch of firings at home. Alas, eventually the wires on the intermittent switch somehow shorted out or just got bent off hitting the terminal block. I have a larger project box in the garage to put it all back together some day. This time I will probably also add some battery holders.

Platform

33__p4_Platform_Plan.png
33_platform_base.JPG
34_platform_angle_set.JPG
The platform was meant to provide a heavy, stable, adjustable base for the gun. We design it to aim the barrel at 4 angles - 0, 15, 30, and 45 degrees. The straps in the back allowed the gun to pivot while staying stable.

The first pictures shows my son's rendering of the plan and steps.

Firing

35_firing_range.JPG
36_firing_load.JPG
37_firing_pressurinze.JPG
38_p4_Firing_test_results.png
It is really great to have an empty 5-acre lot across the street from your house. Notice flag poles marking every 100 feet (and showing any wind). We got good enough to aim and hit the steel roof of the barn across the street everytime (80PSI at 30 Deg. and adjust the directions for wind). The last picture was our intial test results.