Tic-Tac-Toe Part-2 ( PIC16F627A )

This is PART-2 of the Tic-Tac-Toe PIC16F627A project. On PART-1 I described the circuit operation, and the basic program flow. In this new section I will propose a possible "good looking" enclosure build for the device with large back-lit buttons. Here you will also find the links to the PCB, Hex code, Assemby (ASM) code, and the .cdr file for laser cutting the top panel.

PART-1 Video / Instructable

Link to Part-1 Instructable

PART-2 Video

(this Instructable)

Materials

Basic materials are:

1) Wood moulding for frame (details later)

2) Acrylic buttons (details later)

3) Acrylic top panel (laser cut)

other materials: circuit board, bottom cover, 3 AA cell holders, nuts&bolts, screws, varnish, glue etc.

Wood Moulding

Cross section dimensions of the moulding for the enclosure frame

Frame Assembly

Cut 4 sides of frame at 45° angle on ends. Edge where panel rests should be 142 mm long. Glue parts together and hold in place with masking tape. Verify right angles.

Acrylic Top Panel

Download .CDR (corel draw) file for laser cutting of top panel. Panel is fastened to frame with 8 wood-screws.

PCB Board to Top Panel

PCB is attached to panel with (4) 1/8" thread, 1.5" length bolts & nuts. Clearance between PCB and panel is 7/8". Use spacers or double nut.

Acrylic Buttons

Acrylic buttons are cut from 20 mm diameter transparent acrylic rod. Button length is 20 mm. All faces have a frosted finish for light diffusion, except the bottom face where LED light enters which is polished. Drill a 3 mm diameter & 3 mm deep hole on bottom face to fit the switch stem. Use a little silicone glue if necessary.