Tree-length Saw Horse

Bucking rounds for firewood can be a tree-mendously fun but time-consuming task. Wood-n't you like to know a faster method? In this instructable I'll show you how to construct a 10' long sawhorse that will speed up your cutting immensely and leaf you wondering how you managed without one!

Materials

2x4x8, 8 off

2x4x10, 4 off

Box of 3 1/2" deck screws. Buy the good ones, they will last forever.

4" x 1/2" bolts, 4 off

1/2" wing nuts, 4 off

1/2" washers, 8 off

Tools

Power drill (You may remember Lord Drillington-Smythe from some of my earlier instructables. Sadly he passed away, so I am employing the help of The Holemaker Deluxe (mk III)

Tape measure

Carpentry pencil & square

Clamps

Time

About 8 hours, depending on skill level

Cost

About $70, cheaper if you have scrap lumber you can use. Most of the cost went on a box of deck screws, but I used maybe 1/3 of the box on this project.

First thing we're gonna do is lay out the timber to get a rough idea of the final form. I'm using 5' lengths of 2x4 for the uprights and 10' lengths for the cross-braces.

The uprights in the photo above aren't yet cut down from the 8' lengths they sell at the store.

Let's start by fixing the lower cross-brace to each side's uprights. There are four uprights, each comprised of two 2x4s. As you can see in this photo.. yeah, I started driving in screws (I'm using 3" deck screws) before cutting the uprights to size. I'm smart like that.

With both lower braces in place, it's time to check the alignment, and mark up the pivot holes. The clamps are here to aid in moving the entire unit.

Having put the first (lower) cross-brace in place, it's time to tackle the pivot. I measured from the bottom of the uprights, marked and drilled 1/4" holes for installation of 3 1/2" x 1/4" hex-head bolts. Use a washer either side to prevent the bolt/ nut disappearing into the timber. Use of wing nuts makes for easy loosening/ tightening when it's time to move or position the sawhorse.

With lower cross-brace screwed into place, the uprights finally cut down to size, and the pivot joints installed, it's time for a test fit. I propped the proto-sawhorse up against the garage and the uprights align nicely. Now is the time for any final adjustments before aligning and fitting the upper cross-brace.

We're ready for final finishing. Apply stain/ varnish of your choice, and you're all set!

Enhancements:

I ended up adding a couple of smaller uprights about 10" from one end so I can buck shorter logs - once the logs get shorter than the distance between uprights, they simply fall through.

Thought about making two shorter sawhorses (6' long each). These would be more versatile, and easier to move and store, but would of course require more lumber. I might cut this one down at some point if it proves too difficult to use.