Triple Bin Worm Composter - Vermicompost
by foodplotsurvival in Living > Gardening
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Triple Bin Worm Composter - Vermicompost
Food Plot Survival (FPS)
Having the infrastructure in place to thrive in a grid down society.
Food Plot Survival is a concept of wildlife conservation and self preservation. Growing crops that will help feed the wildlife in lean winter months while at the same time can provide food and sustenance for me and mine should the need arise.
Having the infrastructure in place to thrive in a grid down society.
Food Plot Survival is a concept of wildlife conservation and self preservation. Growing crops that will help feed the wildlife in lean winter months while at the same time can provide food and sustenance for me and mine should the need arise.
We Will Start by Recycling Old Plastic Barrels, These Barrels Must Be Split in Half.
Start by Finding the Center of the Barrels Perpendicular to the Bung Holes and Plastic Barrel Mold Line.
Once the Center Is Found on Both the Top & Bottom of the Barrel Use Duct Tape for an Easy Saw Line.
Using an Old Board & Eye Bolts, Strap the Barrel Down Securely. This Makes Cutting the Barrel Much Safer.
Lay the Barrel on Its Side to Complete the Cuts on Both the Top and Bottom of the Barrel.
Now Is a Good Time to Have Your Helper Take the Duct Tape Off.
Next Step, Frame Construction.
Before the Frame Can Be Made, the Lip on the Top of the Barrel Must Be Cut to Accept the Width of a 2x4.
Once the Lip Is Off, Measure for the Frame and Screw Together.
Using Wide Head Screws, Attach the Drum to the Inside of the Frame.
Up Until This Point This Project Is Very Similiar to My Top Bar Barrel Bee Hive.
Cut the Skids on an Angle to Make It Easier to Slide Around the Yard.
Once the Skids Are Built, Attach Them to the Sides of the Frame. Next Comes the Support Pieces to Stiffen the Entire Frame.
At This Point the Frame Is Finished As It Is Now Time to Start on the Inside of the Barrel.
Divide the Interior of the Barrel Into 3 Equal Spaces.
An old wire shelf works well to keep the three compartments seperate.
The worms can easily crawl from one section to another while the compost and castings stay where they're suppose to.
The worms can easily crawl from one section to another while the compost and castings stay where they're suppose to.
Attach a 2x4 to the Top of the Frame. This Will Be Used to Install Hinges for the Top.
Thin fence panels can be used to frame up the lid of the worm bin.
Installing hinges on the 2x4 will give the bin an opening for air circulation yet keep it dry when it rains.
Installing hinges on the 2x4 will give the bin an opening for air circulation yet keep it dry when it rains.
A Simple Sheet of Corrugated Plastic Serves As Roofing Material.
The Worm Bin Is Shown Here With the Side Shelves Installed.
Drill a Hole Into the Bottom of the Barrel for Drainage.
Placing a Bucket Under the Barrel Will Capture Excess Nutrient Rich Water Which Can Be Poured Onto Your Plants.
Priming the Worm Bin.
Line the bottom of the barrel with damp cardboard.
Well aged compost is applied over the cardboard.
Shredded newspaper helps to absorb moisture.
This bin is then topped with leaves from last fall.
When the worms come in the mail give them a few days to get use to the new home before starting to fill one of the side bins.
This system allows for the continuous production of worm castings. The center section is what I call the worms "home". Once the colony is established, food waste will then be put into the bin on the right. The worms will migrate over and eat, if the food gets too hot from decomposition, they can retreat to the center section.
Once the right bin has been composted and turned into castings it's time to start filling the left section. The worms will find the new food source and migrate to the new restaurant. Don't be in a hurry to harvest the right section. It may contain many worm eggs... allow them time to hatch and join the party.
Eventually the center section will become full of castings. Replace this section with well aged compost and more cardboard. A screen can be made to fit over the barrel and worms can easily be sifted from the castings. This composter is waist level and very easy on the back. Next spring it can pull double duty as a potting station for the new garden vegetables and flower seedlings.
Well aged compost is applied over the cardboard.
Shredded newspaper helps to absorb moisture.
This bin is then topped with leaves from last fall.
When the worms come in the mail give them a few days to get use to the new home before starting to fill one of the side bins.
This system allows for the continuous production of worm castings. The center section is what I call the worms "home". Once the colony is established, food waste will then be put into the bin on the right. The worms will migrate over and eat, if the food gets too hot from decomposition, they can retreat to the center section.
Once the right bin has been composted and turned into castings it's time to start filling the left section. The worms will find the new food source and migrate to the new restaurant. Don't be in a hurry to harvest the right section. It may contain many worm eggs... allow them time to hatch and join the party.
Eventually the center section will become full of castings. Replace this section with well aged compost and more cardboard. A screen can be made to fit over the barrel and worms can easily be sifted from the castings. This composter is waist level and very easy on the back. Next spring it can pull double duty as a potting station for the new garden vegetables and flower seedlings.
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