Useless Box PGHS': Group HACKID (Prototype 1- Version)

In Mechatronics 1, at Pleasant Grove High School, a team of 6 students made a Useless Box. A Useless Box is a comedic box that features a switch. A laugh is got out of a finger switching the switch back, as though defiant of the human.

YouTube Video Demonstration of Our Project: Scary Zombie Useless Box - YouTube

1. Mini DPDT Toggle Switch
2. 6A 125VAC
3. Mini DPDT Toggle Switch Link
4. SPDT Limit Switch
5. D3v-162-1A4
6. Limit Switch Link
7. DC Geared Motor
8. DG02S 48:1
9. DC Geared Motor Link
10. Colored Jumper Wires
11. Pololu item #: 4563
12. Colored Jumper Wires Link
13. AA batteries
14. DURACELL
15. AA Batteries Link
16. AA battery holder
17. OLIREXD
18. AA Battery Holder Link
19. MDF Wood Board
20. Various
21. MDF Wood Link
22. Screws
23. Various
24. Screws 3mm

1. PLA Filament
2. Link
3. 3D Printer (Ender)
4. Link
5. Laser Cutter
6. Link
7. Soldering Iron
8. Link
9. Brass Sponge
10. Link
11. Fume Extractor
12. Link
13. Solder Wire
14. Link
15. Wood Glue
16. Link
17. Helping- Hands
18. Link

1. Laser- Cutting the template
2. Start by ensuring your CAD drawing layers are set correctly and appropriate for the design.
3. After each use, it's crucial to clean the machine thoroughly to maintain its functionality. 
4. Set the machine settings to match the thickness of the wood you are using. 
5. Before beginning, check that the fume extractor is operational to handle any smoke generated during the process. Finally, allow smoke to dissipate fully before reaching for any cut pieces to ensure safety and clarity.
6. Ensure that your CAD drawing layers are correct.
7. Clean your machine after each use.
8. Set settings to propper wood thickness.
9. Ensure fume extractor is working.
10. Let smoke clear before grabbing pieces.
11. Here is a file of our Laser-Cut-Out;

1. Assembling the exterior of box
2. Use wood glue, for a strong grip.
3. Let dry for at least 20 minutes before moving.
4. Hold pieces together during the gluing process.
5. Wipe away with wet paper towels and glue.

1. Connecting the limit Switch. 
2. On a standard limit switch there are three prongs. If yours doesn't have three prongs make sure that its a NC switch
3. On your switch we will first solder a connection between the NC prong on a limit switch and then onto any of the empty prongs on the DPDT switch using a wire. Make sure no bridges occur on the DPDT switch. 
4. We will then solder a wire on the ground of the DPDT switch that we will leave unconnected to anything for now until we get the battery in place.
5. Positive and negative wires. 
6. Once the limit switch is connected to a node, look at the node that is directly adjacent to it that is empty and isn’t connected to the motor. 
7. Now look at the node Diagonally opposite from it. 
8. Both those nodes need to receive a Negative input in order to complete a loop and have the motor spin. 
9. The reason we need the diagonally opposite to both be negative is that when the switch is flipped the common connects to one of the nodes adjacent to it. If we have on one side of the common a negative end and the other side a positive end, the direction that the motor will run will be opposite based on how you flip the switch
10. To connect these two: how we did it was that we connected a small wire to each prong individually and then connected the ends of those wires with one bigger wire to make one central (negative) wire. 
11. For the last node we connected 1 wire that we will designate positive. 
12. Battery 
13. Before you do and solder you should do testing to see how many batteries you will need to be able to flick the switch and if the polarity is correct. 
14. Depending on how your motor was linked your motor might spin in the opposite direction you need it to. If this happens reverse the polarity on your batteries by connecting the positive end of the battery to the negative set of wires and vice versa. This should resolve the issue
15. Once you’re done testing and figured out how many batteries you should use we are now going to start soldering the battery holders. 
16. Connect the Positive end of the batter holder to the positive set of wires on the Dpdt and the Limit switch (Unless you had the situation as previous mention in which you would connect the negative end of the battery) 
17. Then connect the negative end of the battery to a negative set of wires. (unless in a previous case where it would now be a positive end to negative set.

Now when we did this project, we encountered numerous complaints, issues, and many guesses on why the Useless- Box wasn’t working. But luckily after given enough time and experience we were able to understand how the box works and what were the issues at hand.

1. For 3D modeling we used AutoDesk Inventor and MakerBot.
2. For the switch, we added a little gravestone with a ghost on it.
3. With 3D printing we used filament, and had our measurements in millimeters.

1. https://www.instructables.com/Useless-Box/  
2. https://www.instructables.com/Useless-Box-8/ 
3. https://www.instructables.com/Useless-Machine-Complete-Plans-and-Hardware-Needs/

1. Not using the right wood. Make sure that when printing out, USE THE RIGHT WOOD!!! Otherwise, the laser wouldn’t be able to cut through
2. Connection with the wires to the DPDT switch
3. Board the limit switch goes on needed adjustments for a larger limit switch
4. Multiple iterations of the Motor Holder had to be made
5. The first iteration couldn’t reach the limit switch
6. The second iteration could reach the limit switch but would sometimes miss it by going under it
7. The third iteration would fall short of the limit switch because the arm would hit the bottom of the box first (the arm also had to be changed)
8. The fourth iteration had its axis rotated to solve this problem but was rotated incorrectly
9. The fifth iteration finally worked as intended
10. When printing out make sure the bed of the 3D printer is heated. Otherwise, it might be stuck to the board of the 3D printer.
11. Had an issue with figuring out the correct amount of batteries to be able to successfully push the DPDT to a different state
12. Also had an issue fitting enough battery boxes
13. Currently this is only the prototype version of the box. The main issue we have and are currently fixing is replacing the battery once the lid is closed. Basically, once the lid is closed, there’s no way to get the batteries out and no way to repair the circuitry.

Email: Fred.story.book@gmail.com