Wireless VAXEE NP-01s Mod (G305)

These are the orientations that I print the pieces in. I use manual supports on the front screw piece. Remember to use supports on the rechargeable battery holder but keep them from inside it. Play around with it in your slicer. I'll have a section about the scroll wheel later as it's quite particular. Typically I use eSun PLA+ so I don't know about other filament types.

I've printed this on an Ender 3, Prusa Mini, and Artillery Genius. I print with pretty close to the supplied 0.2mm Standard profiles so I'm not going to post my full profiles, but I would enable "print thin walls".

You need to cut plenty so I would work under the assumption that this is not reversible unless you keep it together a new way once they're cut.

Assembly video:

Supplies: Patience

Basic troubleshooting skills

-NP-01s

-G305

-3D Printer or Printed pieces

-STL Files Link: https://www.etsy.com/listing/1042040593/vaxee-np-0...

-Etsy Shop for prints: https://www.etsy.com/shop/ZoroSeerus

-Screwdriver

-Flush cutters / cutting instrument

-Tape

-AAA Battery

-Deburring tool is useful but not completely necessary

Cables I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RHVNFQ6

Battery I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RHVNFQ6

-There are likely multiple combinations of chargers and batteries that work. These are the ones I use. The battery matters less than the connector since they'll only vary in weight and battery life. If you get a different battery make sure it's 1.5v. Video demonstration of rechargeability:

The cuts are highlighted in red. I mostly just used flush cutters.

The green cuts are areas you can leave. I accidentally snapped off the circle post that I highlighted, and my top pieces should fit around it. If you leave the parts next to the scroll housing you'll need to sand part of them down where they contact the G305 scroll encoder. It'll bump otherwise. If you want to see what I mean put the top shell on without the mouse buttons in place so you can see it.

You will need to make some minor cuts to the PCB. I used my flush cutters. You can score it a bit with a razor before the cut. Just do a little at a time and you'll be fine.

u/Rec0nkill has a post and helpful photo on the important parts of the G305 PCB. I've included his photo in this gallery. Here is the thread:

https://www.reddit.com/r/MouseReview/comments/isis...

You can use the G305 scroll wheel, but the fit was annoying me a bit so I made one that uses the original scroll rubber. If you use the G305 wheel you'll have to sand or use a deburring tool because it'll rub the sides. I started doing that buy decided I'd just made a scroll instead.

I print it in two parts to avoid any supports. You just slide the second end in and twist to lock it in place. Generally these small, detailed prints are a bit annoying with a stock 0.4mm nozzle on FDM printers, so here are the alterations I made to my print profile to make it work for me. You will likely need to experiment with your settings, and I can't offer you much advice so please if you're having issues do some research as to what people with your printer might do. The provided profile is from my Prusa Mini, so it's an example of how I approach this print on a Bowden setup as I expect it'll be a bit easier with a direct drive setup.

Once printed, slot the second piece in and twist it in place so that it doesn't move.

Be careful with the ends of the battery wires. You can tear them off in which case you'll have to resolder the connection.

If you're using the rechargeable battery then plug in the magnetic micro-usb charging tip. Orientation for the battery and their holders are shown in the photos. Unplug everything and put the battery into position. I haven't had any issues with it moving around but feel free to use some tape to 100% secure it down. I have an updated version of this now which uses 3 of the PCB screws to hold the pieces together..

Put the front screw post in first. Use a PCB screw. Screw it in slowly and don't over tighten it.

There are four screw holes. use PCB screws for them.

For the side buttons slide them down into place. Slide the side button piece over them. It is possible you will need to cut a small amount of depth off of this. I've provided the STEP file. You could also just sand it a bit.

Recall the green areas from the cut section. If you don't cut them then it's possible that you'll need to use some lower mouse switch holders. I cut mine so I do not know the exact height. I've included a version of the switch holders that are 1mm shorter along with the STEP file so you can scale the height as needed. If you don't have a 3D printer then you'll want to use the shorter switch holders and some sort of spacer under them to elevate the buttons.

You'll use three screws for this part (or four if you didn't snap off the post in green)

For part 1 use one PCB screw (and another on the green bit)

For part 2 use one PCB screw on the bottom hole and a long screw from the bottom for the higher up slot

Angle the front. Push down at the front, then pull back, and finally push down at the back. Flip it over and do the two screw holes using the long screws from the bottom of the G305.