Workbench Instrument Cluster ( a Dream Come True Project)

I've always wanted a display, just like the instrument cluster's display of a car, that can show the Power draw (like speed), the time to empty (like distance to empty), average power (like average speed), etc.

That's exactly what I made in this Instructable.

The main highlight is that it even has a key fob with keyless start. Just like in modern cars.

It also has overcurrent warning (like over speed warning) along with other warnings.

So, take your time, reading this interesting journey of mine in making such a wonderful device.

Most of the assemblies and makings are given in PDF format as I had more than 40 images for each part, making it harder to manage in an Instructable step.

1.1:

1.1.1) An Arduino nano

1.1.2) Voltage sensing module

1.1.3) Current sensing module

1.1.4) 12V 30A relay

1.1.5) BC547 transistor

1.1.6) High current screw terminals

1.1.7) Perf board

1.1.8) 1 microfarad Capacitors

1.1.9) DS1307 RTC module

1.1.10) 330 ohm resistors

1.1.11) Wires

1.1.12) XT60 connector

1.2:

1.2.1) 433MHz RF transmitter module

1.2.2) Arduino nano

1.2.3) MFRC522 RFID scanner module

1.2.4) Push button

1.3:

1.3.1) 433mHz RF transmitter

1.3.2) 300mAh 3.7v Li-Po battery

1.3.3) TP4056

1.3.4) Push button

1.3.5) Perf board

1.3.6) Arduino Nano

1.3.7) RFID Tag

In order for you to not get lost, I have created an index.

1.0.0 - Materials needed

1.1 - Materials needed for the Display Unit

1.2 - Materials needed for Security Module

1.3 - Materials needed for Key Fob

2.0.0 - Display unit

2.1 - Testing the display

2.2 - Making the display unit

3.0.0 - Security Module

3.1 - Making the security module

4.0.0 - Key Fob

4.1 - Making the key fob

5.0.0 - Main Board

5.1 - Making the main board

6.0.0 - Assembly

7.0.0 - Testing

8.0.0 - Final words

2.1.1:

Now, before we begin, its always wise to test out our new display.

So, let's wire the display to the Arduino Nano in the following connection in a breadboard:

GND - GND

VDD/VCC - 5V

SCK/SCL - A5

SDA - A4

Now, we go to the Arduino software. In it, click sketch -> Include library -> Manage libraries

In it, type "SSD1306". Now, install Adafruit SSD1306. Click "install all".

Once you have installed, click on File -> Examples -> Adafruit SSD1306 -> ssd_1306_128x32_i2c.

Once opened, click on upload. Once uploaded, you should see the display show some text, animations, etc.

If it does, it means everything is perfect.

If it doesn't, check your wirings, ensure the code is uploaded correctly, ensure that the display's address is the same of the display (if 0x3C, then try 0x3D or vice versa.), or simply, your display is faulty :( .

2.2:

Now that you are sure your display is working, you can start making the display unit. The circuit is solely made by me. The making of this display unit is given in the PDF file below. (I have did so, as there are too many images to show each and every connection made in it). Do check it out as it shows each and every step to make the circuit along with the assembly of the display unit.

This is the module that is responsible for looking for RF signals from the key fob that we will be making after this step.

I first thought of implementing this into the Main Board itself, but unfortunately, RFID, RF and SSD1306 display do not work well together. Hence, I was forced to have this feature in another Arduino Nano board.

The power button is embedded into this part itself, and the signals are sent to the Arduino Nano in the Main Board.

The PDF for making the Security Module, 3D printer files along with the Arduino Code are attached below.

This is the part that allows us to turn on the system. I wanted to replicate a car as much as possible. Hence, I have made this key fob that replicates the key fob of a car including the feature called "Passive Keyless Entry & Start". This feature enables the user enter a car without taking the key out of his pocket thanks to RF and communication. In case the battery in the key runs out, the user can use the in-built RFID tag in the key to start the car.

I have replicated this with this key fob.

The PDF for assembly, the code for the Key Fob and the 3D printer files are attached below.

This is the control centre of the entire system as it is the one that decides if to turn on/off the system, output, etc. So, we need to make everything as careful as possible.

This main board is the one that took a lot of time to make as it involved a lot of components to solder and connect.

The main board is enclosed in a "Side Console" (kind of like the centre console in a car). In this, there is a small

storage, 2 buttons (of which only 1 is currently used) and a small arm rest to rest the arm when using the buttons.

Coding : As always, I opt for the Hit and Trial method for coding. This is the part that took the most time in this entire build. Everything ranging from the icons, start up screen, LED colours and much more.

The RTC's time can be set using the "RTC_Calibrate_Code_Arduino" code (attached below) to set the correct time.

Right now, there are only 2 screens. Mainly Screen 1: Shows Voltage and Current (like drive info. in cars), and Screen 2: Shows the instantaneous power draw (like the screen that shows the instantaneous speed).

There are actually, 4 total placeholders for the number of screens.

I had initially designed to add "Power Economy" for Screen 3 (It uses SpW [Seconds per Watt]. Kind of like Km/l, a unit used to measure the fuel economy of a vehicle, likewise, SpW shows the number of seconds it takes to use up 1Wh of energy.

Screen 4 shows the average values, (like average power used, average voltage, average current draw, Time To Empty, Average SpW and lots more.

I am still designing the code. So, Screen 3 and 4 will be updated in the code soon.

The PDF of making the Main Board, the 3D printer file for the side console (support to be used) and the code for the Main Board are attached below.

This is the final step we need to do. And that is, to assemble everything.

Like I said, the button is stuck to the enclosure (Attached image) and wired to the Arduino Nano like so on D3.

Then the JST connectors that connect the Display Unit as well as the Security Module are fixed to the main board.

After that, I enclosed the main board inside the side console (unnecessary parts of the board were trimmed). Now, as you can see in the final image, everything works brilliantly.

Like I said, I got positive results. But don't think I got it on my first try. Countless amount of reprograms, wire checks, connection checks were done by me for various problems. Eventually though, I sorted them out. In the end, I am very happy that all of this works after my hard work

In the end, I am happy it works till what I have planned.

My future plans:

1. To implement the ceiling lighting (A very dim, small light that turns on if the key fob is detected nearby and is of during normal operations.
2. To implement the two screens that I have talked about.
3. To add a charging circuit to the battery for safety

And much more.

If you have any ideas, feel free to leave it in the comments section, good ones may be added to the "Future plans" section..

That's a great Instructable of mine. After making this, part of my dream project has become true. I hope you liked this build. With this, I am Niruban, Signing off..