EReader or Tablet Cover
A DIY eReader cover that looks like a hard-back book! The design can be adapted for tablets :)
The covers available for purchase for eReaders and the like are all a bit blah, and rather $pendy. So I rolled my own, and now you can too!
This eReader cover was made for a SONY PRST2.
The covers available for purchase for eReaders and the like are all a bit blah, and rather $pendy. So I rolled my own, and now you can too!
This eReader cover was made for a SONY PRST2.
Stuff you will need:
- Sheet of rigid cardboard or thin masonite (~ A4 size)
- Fabric suitable for outer cover (~ A4 size)
- Paper for inner (~ A4 size)
- Approximately 60cm of thin flat elastic (~ 5mm width)
- Cutting tools
- PVA glue
- Measuring tools
- Marking tools
- Small eyelets, punch and setter, hammer (n=8 eyelets)
Aaaannd...
- Your chosen device.
- Sheet of rigid cardboard or thin masonite (~ A4 size)
- Fabric suitable for outer cover (~ A4 size)
- Paper for inner (~ A4 size)
- Approximately 60cm of thin flat elastic (~ 5mm width)
- Cutting tools
- PVA glue
- Measuring tools
- Marking tools
- Small eyelets, punch and setter, hammer (n=8 eyelets)
Aaaannd...
- Your chosen device.
Cut 3 pieces of rigid board of your choice.
I used a piece of art board I had laying around.
The front and back covers will need to be about 5mm bigger in height and width, than your device.
The spine will need to be about 1mm deeper than the depth of your device.
I used a piece of art board I had laying around.
The front and back covers will need to be about 5mm bigger in height and width, than your device.
The spine will need to be about 1mm deeper than the depth of your device.
Cut fabric for outer cover.
The pieces of board will be glued to this with about 2mm of space between them (to allow for folding closed). The fabric needs to be 15mm larger than this all round.
Here I have used a blockout-lined curtain fabric. It was left over from a curtain making adventure and thus, free :)
Use just about any fabric you like, heavier is generally better.
The pieces of board will be glued to this with about 2mm of space between them (to allow for folding closed). The fabric needs to be 15mm larger than this all round.
Here I have used a blockout-lined curtain fabric. It was left over from a curtain making adventure and thus, free :)
Use just about any fabric you like, heavier is generally better.
Glue boards to fabric.
Rule lines on the 'wrong' side of the fabric to guide placement of the boards once glued. Apply glue all over one side of the board and apply to fabric. Smooth it out.
Now we want to allow this to dry, so weight it down with a traditional reading device, leave for a couple of hours.
Rule lines on the 'wrong' side of the fabric to guide placement of the boards once glued. Apply glue all over one side of the board and apply to fabric. Smooth it out.
Now we want to allow this to dry, so weight it down with a traditional reading device, leave for a couple of hours.
Finish fabric edges.
Once the boards are glued in place, snip off the very corners of the fabric.
Now it is time to wrap the fabric around the boards and secure it. Here I have used double sided tape but the edges can also be glued just as well.
Fold and secure corners first.
Once the boards are glued in place, snip off the very corners of the fabric.
Now it is time to wrap the fabric around the boards and secure it. Here I have used double sided tape but the edges can also be glued just as well.
Fold and secure corners first.
Once corners are secure, fold all edges.
Inner paper time!
This cover is for my Aunt, so I chose pretty swirly scrapbook paper. One sheet is all you need.
Scrapbooking paper is good because it is heavier than normal paper and comes in a zillion* different designs.
Measure the current dimensions of the cover (wider and taller than before with the fabric).
Cut paper of choice about 5mm smaller in height and width (i.e. 2.5 mm on each side) than your measurements.
*where 'zillion' is defined as a finite but uncountable number
This cover is for my Aunt, so I chose pretty swirly scrapbook paper. One sheet is all you need.
Scrapbooking paper is good because it is heavier than normal paper and comes in a zillion* different designs.
Measure the current dimensions of the cover (wider and taller than before with the fabric).
Cut paper of choice about 5mm smaller in height and width (i.e. 2.5 mm on each side) than your measurements.
*where 'zillion' is defined as a finite but uncountable number
Apply glue and stick down. Smooth out bubbles.
To help the edges of the paper stick to the fabric edges, use clamping apparatus to hold the together until dry.
To help the edges of the paper stick to the fabric edges, use clamping apparatus to hold the together until dry.
Measure for Eyelets!
The device is held in the cover by a particular arrangement of elastic that threads through holes in the back part of the cover. The holes are prevented from deteriorating by adding eyelets. The elastic is arranged in such a way as to hold the corners of the device securely.
Optimal spacing for Sony PRST2:
Top corners: Inner Eyelets: 8mm from top, 30mm from edge; Outer Eyelets: 25mm from top, 8mm from edge.
Bottom corners: Inner Eyelets: 10mm from bottom, 30mm from edge; Outer Eyelets: 35mm from bottom, 8mm from edge.
Notes for eyelet spacing: For reasons I do not understand, the elastic behaves in a strange manner when the device is inserted. See diagram for advice.
The device is held in the cover by a particular arrangement of elastic that threads through holes in the back part of the cover. The holes are prevented from deteriorating by adding eyelets. The elastic is arranged in such a way as to hold the corners of the device securely.
Optimal spacing for Sony PRST2:
Top corners: Inner Eyelets: 8mm from top, 30mm from edge; Outer Eyelets: 25mm from top, 8mm from edge.
Bottom corners: Inner Eyelets: 10mm from bottom, 30mm from edge; Outer Eyelets: 35mm from bottom, 8mm from edge.
Notes for eyelet spacing: For reasons I do not understand, the elastic behaves in a strange manner when the device is inserted. See diagram for advice.
Punch holes for eyelets.
Eyelet kits usually come with a punch and a setter. Getting through all the layers takes some effort, but it will be worth it :)
Eyelet kits usually come with a punch and a setter. Getting through all the layers takes some effort, but it will be worth it :)
Place and set the eyelets.
Eyelets have two halves. The "good" side is the side you want facing your device.
This bit is fun. Enjoy the process!
Eyelets have two halves. The "good" side is the side you want facing your device.
This bit is fun. Enjoy the process!
Elastic threading.
Follow the five steps illustrated in the pictures. The order of threading is essential to success. This is because the elastic, as well as holding the device in place, also holds the cover closed when you are not reading!
Follow the five steps illustrated in the pictures. The order of threading is essential to success. This is because the elastic, as well as holding the device in place, also holds the cover closed when you are not reading!
The finished cover, and some notes from my learning experience making a prototype.